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Yeah, headlight out first. Pain in the *** first time you do it but it's fairly easy. 2 bolts on top and one down the inside the centre grill has to come out to get to that one... Then it's a case of popping the headlight out of it's securing clips....
You should try changing a bulb on a Xantia o/s headlight:
Grille off, grille lower trim off, sidelight off, trim under headlight off, headlight out.......