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1993 WRX Central Locking Issues

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Old 25 January 2011, 01:44 PM
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Northern Nick
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Default 1993 WRX Central Locking Issues

Hi,

Does anybody here know about GC8 central locking with 8 pin door lock timer?

I spent a good few hours on a friends car on Saturday trying to work out how the central locking works.

His central locking failed a few weeks ago and after finding the door lock timer full of water, we thought that was the problem. Fitted the door lock timer sold as tested working and the problem is still there.

I worked out that the solenoids reverse the 0v & 12v when from unlock to lock. There is a 12v present on the door lock timer inbetween the 2 wires that go to the door solenoids, there is a permatant 0v which is common with the drivers door switch and then the remaining wire on the door lock timer is the switched signal coming back from the driver door switch.

Everything works but the central locking doesn't. Doesn't work with the key fob or the door key. It doesn't work with the driver switch in your hand even though the switch is sending a signal.

If I ground the door lock timer lock relay, all the doors lock, if I ground the door lock timer unlock relay, all the doors unlock, but when I operated the switch or even ground out the pin for the signal wire, nother happens.

It would suggest the door lock timer if goosed but it looks brand new (it is second hand though).

Does anybody know what each pin on the door lock timer is supposed to do as I have only worked out what I know by backwards engineering the system.

I would have swapped a few bits off mine but with it being an RA, the bloody thing doesn't have central locking

Thanks in advance for any help
Old 25 January 2011, 08:09 PM
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Anybody?
Old 26 January 2011, 07:30 AM
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P600wrx
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ok ok,lets start from the beginining,

GC8 so a classic, uk or import?

the cdl system is what is called a single wire operation, from the drivers door switch there is only a sinlge wire that controls the cdl, in the drivers foot well there is a number of plugs find the one with the loom going up therought the grommet into the door, to test first latch the door latch over with screwdrivers and push the lock closed, the one by the handle u open door with from inside, then when u have located the plug pull it apart thremaybe more than 1 plug, do the doors open, if no put plug together, unlock door then pull it apart again do doors lock,

ignore all the 12v and 0v stuff the motors in the doors are just reverse polarity one's, the door lock timer only gets 1 signal from 1 wire it is white with blk rings from what i remember will check later today for you,

when cut doors should unlock, if you ground the side of the wire going to the timer they should lock, if the do nothing the timer is up the creak (could be other way round cut to lock and ground to unlock)

hth
Old 26 January 2011, 10:01 AM
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Hi,

Thanks for the reply.

GC8 so yes, 2.0ltr Turbo Classic.
WRX so Import

We may have different central locking systems as the door switch in the drivers door has 2 wires on it (Black & Red), one is permatant ground the other is switched ground by the switch, which is operated by the door lock mechanism which is working fine. From memory, door unlocked, continuity through switch, door locked, continiuty broken, switch open.

The ground is common with the ground on the door lock timer (Black with silver bands) and the signal iirc is white but I dont have the car available to check. These 2 wires are the wires coming from the drivers door switch.

That part seems to work fine.

Can you confirm that the signal from the drivers door switch is ground?


The door motors are reverse polarity, I maybe didn't quite explain that clearly. Checked via flying leads off a car battery.

I have located all the wiring plugs at the doors and they pass through what I would describe as the square plug with continuity fine. There is a wire colour change through the plugs

There is 3 remaining wires on the DLT, one of these is a permanant 12v feed, the other two I would guess are the reverse polarity feeds to all 4 doors?

Does that make any more sense. Its difficult to ignore the grounds (what I originally called 0v) and the 12v's as that is what the system works with.

As said, I have bench tested the DLT replicating all the voltages and introducing and removing the ground to the signal pin doesn't alter anything.

Thanks in advacne for any help
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