Hi everyone.....just thought i'd let people know about this kit that i fitted last night....If you was ever thinking about having Xenons like i did you have get it!!! It took me around 2 hours start to finish and the result is awesome!!! Dont go wasting your money on bulbs that claim to give great light..... Spend the £150 on this kit and fit it. Took 4 days to arrive from China and was free shipping! The kit is more or less just a plug and play, a minimal amount of drilling was needed for a grommet but apart from that is was very simple. If anyone decides to get one PM me and i'll give you a more detail idea of what to do.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT

http://www.visionbulbs.com/

 

DannFire

What bulb size etc etc would i need for a MY98 Classic? What did you fit and to what shape?

Many Thanx

Aceman

 

No idea squire....have a look in your handbook that will tell you..... I used a H1 6000K kit in an 02 STi

 

Have looked at the ebay site and the sample photos showing the difference between std halogen and HID - incredible ! Am sorely tempted to get a pair of 9005s.

In your opinion do you think they'd work just as well with the standard light units on a 2005 wrx ?

Also, the instructions say that you simply plug back into the existing wiring harness - do you also have to make a connection direct to the battery ?

Cheers.
Tim.

 

Strictly speaking, you shouldn't have to: HIDs draw only around 70% of the current of an equivalent (standard) halogen bulb, so the OE wiring ought to be able to cope.

To the guy who wanted to know about '98 cars: they use an H4 bulb, which is NOT good news for HID conversions. Do a search on here to see why.

Alcazar

 

The female spade connections you take out of the old halogen bulb plug into the new wiring for the conversion kit, it really is simple.....!

I cant speak for the WRX lights..........

 

> Strictly speaking, you shouldn't have to: HIDs draw only around 70% of the > current of an equivalent (standard) halogen bulb, so the OE wiring ought to > be able to cope.

Yeah, never got my head round that myself. They take less current than conventional blubs but then when you fit them you are recommended to fit relays between the standard loom and the ballasts. Even though it made no sense to me I did it that way just in case.....

In-rush current whent they first flicker into life, particularly in cold weather, is pretty high. Guess that might be the reason.

 

Suppose so. They have to charge up the ballast in order to strike the first arc, so that's probably why.

Alcazar

 

Do the Morettes on the classic use H4's also? Have you got a link to a forum why its no so godo news to do the conversion.

 

It's the classic Morettes that use H4's, yes. The alternative "Angel Eyes" kits dont, I THINK they use two H1's but don't know for sure. However, if your outer pair of lights stays on when you select main beam, it's odds on you have Morettes.

Can't find the link, but here's the idea in a nutshell:

An H4 bulb has TWO filaments, (one for main beam, one for dip beam), inside the same glass envelope. They are really close together, (inspect an H4 bulb: about 4mm seperation), the main beam being set at the optical centre of the refector to give a (fairly) parallel beam, the dip beam being set to give a beam that points downwards slightly. The lenses do the beam pattern.

Now an HID has NO filaments, just a discharge between two electrodes, a "spark" if you like, although not strictly speaking true. It's not yet possible to build a bulb the same size and shape as the H4 with the possibility of choosing WHICH way the discharge goes if you put FOUR electrodes in place.

The result is that the H4 conversion uses one of the following:

HID for dip, with halogen main beam glued to it.
HID main and dip with BOTH from same discharge position, main beam being slightly different because a shield moves across the bulb.
As above except the whole bulb (glass bit) moves.
As above except the position of the discharge is moved by an electro-magnetic field.

So far NONE of the above give the desired beam pattern perfectly

Brighter? Oh yes, but light scatter is reckoned to be a problem, and people I know who have them say that main beam is disappointing

There ARE others on here who swear by them, mind you, but given the cost, I've not bothered. My set up is Morettes with GE Megalight 60% uprated bulbs in the outers, standard bulbs in the inners, and pair of Hella 1000FF HID's for driving lights. You'd be paying a LOT of money to better it

Alcazar

 

Alcazar,

There is one other option... HID only does dip beam. With the inner pair of lights in the morettes and a pair of Hellas in the bumper, added to the fact that I have wired the HIDs to stay on on main, it works out rather well. Of course if I can manage to find the money for a set of HID Hellas as well.....

Neil.

 

Sounds good to me. TWO pairs of HID's?

Alcazar

 

Yeah, I know could really do with working out how to get HIDs in the inner lights on the morettes as well

Used to run a lot of Range Rovers, and had one with 4 Hella 2000s on the front - one set pencil beam, one set drive (all with 100W bulbs). It really made it a lot easier to drive at night... until someone came the other way and you were back on dip!

I am sure that you have been asked this one before, but.. How well do the Hella 1000s fit? I have already had to replace the glass in my commet 550s (500s?) twice, and don't like the idea of putting really expensive lamps down there. Have you worked out any way to fit some form of protectors?

Neil.

 

Alcazar, I appreciate taking your time for explaining!
However its not so clear as none of the halogen lamps on my car front headlights turn bright and dim on the same bulb. I took the liberty of taking photos of what I mean. Since I bought the car with the morettes already on it could be some kind of conversion has already be done - on saturday I'll check for sure what halogen bulbs are used on mine.

 

Hi mate,

Until Alcazar gets back here (he is the electrical/lights guru after all). Look at 2nd+3rd pics - the outer lamps are brighter in the 3rd (assuming picture from same position beam pattern is different too).

What you almost certainly have is H4s in outer lamps. As I said earlier, what I have done is to put dip beam only HIDs in the outers, then wire it up so that on main beam both the HIDs and the main beam (inner) lights come on.

BTW, I think you may be confused re terminology - from top to bottom, Side/parking lights, dip beam, main beam.

Neil.

 

Thanks Neil. It does make sense what you where talking about before to place a simple HID light on the outer lights. So what conversion do I go for? The H1?
If I wire up everything as you explained, would my beam pattern be all scattered and would my morettes withstand the heat from the new bulbs?
Also cars that come out with HID, what do they use as main beams, halogens or HIDS?

As for the terminology, sorry but thats they way I learnt them in Malta....as long as we are clear

 

Neil, can you post a photo of your results? I would like to know if its worth all the hassle.

 

Right from the top...

I got (s/hand from here) H4 units, but designed to only do dip - hence can get the unit in the right place and don't have to try and move things. I think most companies still do these.

The beam pattern is fine on mine(as far as I can tell). There isn't a heat problem (I think HIDs actuall produce less, but am prepared to be told otherwise), as afterall there are the same number of lights on when using the standard Morette setup (i.e. all 4). As I mentioned I also have Hella spotlamps in the bumper where the fog lights normally go - but these are from before I had the morettes - I probably wouldn't miss them much now (until I upgrade them to HID units )

I think you will find that many HID equiped cars have HID for dip & halogen for main. That said, newer ones may have both. The older style effectively work in the way I have set mine up - HID only on dip, HID + halogen on main.

Yes, sorry about the terminology bit, but like you said as long as we all know what we mean!

Well I could... But not anywhere near car at the moment!

To be honest though, you won't see much difference from a picture unless you have something else to compare to - and I'm not putting std bulbs back in!

The improvement in what you can see is really noticable - to the extent that I have to look a fair way down the road to tell if I have main beam on - the extra light isn't even noticable near to the car (it was on standard H4s).

If you really want something, pm me an email address and I'll sort something out in the next few days.

Neil.

 

Will the dip beams then be a hazard to oncoming drivers, or HID do not blind as halogens do?
As for the photo, we can always compare it to mine....

 

Well that is a good question - a lot of people complain about HIDs over here - but if properly adjusted they should be OK. I seem to remember talk of the 'different colour' causing people to look at them more - apparently the same thing happened when they first introduced halogens... alternatively that may be a complete load of.....

As for comparing photos, you won't tell anything from a picture of the lights (well alright you may see the different colour). You need pictures from inside the car and of the same bit of road. Still, will happily send you a picture or two when I get back to the car. Probably best to have a look at some of the light manufacturers sites - Hella, autolamps (seem to have a big following on here) pretty sure both have comparison pictures. The difference really is that good, too!

 

ryn004: I don't think you can get an H1 to fit where there has been an H4. Your car certainly looks athough it's got H4 outers, and H2 inners, so genuine Morettes then.

The outers in pic 2 are on dip. Once the inners come on,(pic3) you have main beam, and the second filament is lit in the outers, the first one having gone off.

I reckon you'd be as well talking to autolamps-online.

As far as my Hella 1000ffs are concerned: I bought these from Scoobysport some 4 years ago now. They have custom brackets, (which COULD be copied), and clear plastic covers, which aren't brittle. I have to worry about a front-end collision, but stone damge doesn't happen.

Alcazar

 

Ah... the oracle returns!

So are the clear covers Hella, scoobysport, or something else? And what are the brackets like - mine are just flat plates and the lights bolt backwards through them by turning the bracket at the bottom back. Do the 1000s also work like this or do you need to have a 'lip' to bolt them downwards?

Neil

 

Just sent an email to autolamps-online. If the conversion kit comes expensive I'll just opt for a set of Megalightplus.

In teh meanwhile I was looking through ebay and found #8023176672, do you think its any good? And do I have to be careful when choosing the color temperature? (Was thinking of 6000K - Crystal White)

 

Oracle?

The covers are Scoobysport's own, dunno where they got them made They are a tight push fit.

The brackets? OK, Scoobysport REMOVED the lamp's original one bolt fastening, and I sealed up the hole that it left a bit more securely with shaped bits of plastic, araldited into place and covered in silicone.

On the HID light units, this leaves a sort of rectangular box sticking about 25mm out of the rear of the lights.
Scoobysport made flat steel brackets with a cut out for this protrusion to fit through quite snugly, the brackets having fixing holes at the correct spacing for the OE foglight bolts.
The light is pushed through the bracket, and secured in place with two lengths of steel strip, each having two holes through them, through which pass self-tappers, that screw into the rear protrusion of the light. These will not allow the light to come back out of the hole.

Ingenious really, and could be replicated with a bit of patience and/or a decent machine shop/welder/burner. I had thought of having some made from alloy, or even stainless, but the originals aren't rusty yet, although I did Hammerite them before fitting

The best things for me was fitting them, and finding that:
* They needed NO adjustment, and
* the don't vibrate at all

The brackets are now fitted to the car with anti theft screws kindly provided by another Scoobynetter.

Alcazar

 

Nick, at Autolamps online, reckons the best colour temperature for actually SEEING by, is 4000-4500 K, (as against beeing seen with ) He also recommends ONLY buying Philips or Hella kits as others fall short of the standard, optically, at least

If they are shut for Christmas, I'd wait his response before doing owt.
As I said before, I'm quite happy with my Megalights/HID driving light setup, although I OCCASIONALLY hanker after more HID's

Alcazar

 

Alcazar,

Sorry, what title would you prefer?!

Thanks for the info. Sounds a little more than I feel like getting into right now! One thing that I notice - you said no adjustment was needed, but how can it actually be achieved with this system?

Ryn,

Got your PM, just about to email a couple of pictures.

Neil.

 

I have H4s on our classic and use the PIAA spots for main beam.
I brought the H4 adaptors from Autolamps but they don't come with anything to hold the philips bulbs in the holders so I have had to make a ring to hold the lamps in the holders as they keep falling out whith the suspension set on hard but now alls ok

Only use main beam to blind the fcukwits coming the other way with their fogs on

 

Nah, Oracle will do

Mine were absolutely spot on as fitted. I reckon if you needed adjustment, it could be achieved with washers between the bracket and the bodywork, in the appropriate place. I'd prob fix the washers to the bracket with a dab of something to aid fitting

The thing with 'em is, that the beam pattern is SO good that even with a heavy caravan or trailer on the back, I've not felt the need to pull them down at all, and as they are main beam, you don't have to woory about blinding someone...........

Alcazar

 

Wonder just how the actual colour output off these HID kits compares to the likes off the blue / purple effect off the new corsa, bmw`s, etc ??

must admitt to thinking that the strong blue / purple effect does look kinda cool !!

why come some cars HID lights give out different colour outputs ?? have seen new corsas that you would swear when seen at certain angles / distances were running with purple tinted bulbs !! and yet other manufactures HID kits seem to give off just a hint off blue . some just a very strong intense white colour output.

anyone explain what this is all about and what causes the actual light colour to appear purple / blue from certain angles ??

cheers

 

It's called colour temperature.

HID's can be bought with colour temperatures that vary from about 4000k to 10,000k. 4000k is the whiter looking lights which apparently is the nearest to daylight. 6000k is the hint of blue look you get with OEM on BMW's. 8000k is really quite blue looking and 10,000k is the purply looking ones.

If you want to see a lot at night then 4000k is what you want. But then if BMW fitted these the lesser mortals coming the other way wouldn't know you'd bought a BMW which wouldn't do. So they went for 6000k.

Anything higher than 6000k is just max power muppetry.

All the info you want is on Autolamps-on-line FAQ's. Here.