I need more lighting power for my classic but I don't like the look of morrette's etc due to area that needs colour coding.

Is there any alternatives out there that have the lamp converison but retain the OE crystal lens?

HID's aside of course.

I have seen some in the latest demon tweaks catalogue that give the bmw style led "ring" for the sidelights - although these were only available for VW's - anyone know of a scooby equivalent?

 

It only costs about £100 to get them done and then they look OK, IMHO, of course.

Only putting higher wattage bulbs in, which can be problematic with wiring etc. Also, since the OE lenses/reflectors are the real problem, it's them you need to do away with

???????????That's your best option.start saving:

Wouldn't touch 'em with a ten foot pole, seen too many problems getting them to work, too many disappointed buyers, and too many that burn out the wiring

Alcazar

 

HIDs it will be then - and from I've read they're cheaper than those demon tweaks jobbies anyway...

 

HID's will set you back about £400, maybe more, and the problem of poor reflector/lens is still there.

I have a contact who went that route, and wasn't impressed with the main beam he got, although he said the dip was amazing.

He wasn't bothered though, as, like me, he has HID driving lights for main beam.

My setup uses Morettes for main and dip/main, with GE Megalight 60% uprasted H4 bulbs in the main/dip outer pair, and a pair of Scoobysport's Hella 1000FF HID's for extra main beam.

Sadly, the Scoobysport driving lights are no longer available as a kit, but with a bit of igenuity, you could get some of the light units and make up your own brackets.

Alcazar

 

HAve a look at HID Kits you'll be surprised... got my kit for 200 from them during march's special sale

 

I run 100/80's in my classic - does make a big difference over the standard bulbs. Not strictly legal but as the lenses are so crap I doubt if anyone could really tell I'm using more powerful bulbs. Standard wiring and alternator - last bulbs lasted 4 years, now on second set. My GTB has 400w on main beam - the GTB lenses are even worse than the Impreza

 

Would these be the bulbs which have a flap either side operated by a solenoid when mainbeam is activated, in which case it's basically a beam with a shroud in that you have dip beam and then "the rest" of the dipbeam is shown when the solenoid operates the flaps?
If so, then yes, they're not very good...

The ones which pull the bulb filament in and out are better as they give two distinct beam patterns.

Oh... as food for thought too.... remember that HID's weren't designed to go into halogen bulb designed lenses. There can be issues with putting HID's in these lenses, that is why you are seeing so many HID kits' on ebay imo....

Not wanting to put anyone off HID's cause i've got them on mine in both headlamp and driving lamp but there are issues...

 

From a GB a couple of months ago - there were 2 versions of the HID kit available - one with 2 HID bulbs for both dip & main beam and a second with HID only for dip with main beam remaining as a halogen unit. Alcazar - it sounds like your contact had the latter...

Were £290 from memory...

 

If you retain the OE headlights on a classic, you can ONLY get the kit with the one bulb in it, as the OE lights take an H4 twin filament bulb

Alcazar

 

Just to add to the confusion!
There are three different types of "HID" bulb you can put into an OE lamp unit (H4)

1: This unit has two filaments. An HID dip filament which doesn't move with a halogen main beam filament glued next to it..

2: An HID filament with two plates (one either side) which open and shut via a solenoid to give you dip and main beam (this is the one i think alcazar has referred to recently and gives good dip but poor main because the main is just an extension of the dip)

and..
3: An HID filament which physically moves in and out of the bulb holder. The good ones have a shield as part of the bulb and it's this type that give you two distinct beam patterns similar to your original halogen bulbs.

Hope this information is of some use.

Alan

 

So Option 3 is the best of the bunch?

 

Yup.

 

When I am not driving on the road ahhem :-) I use Piaa 180w/135w long life ceramic based H4 bulbs, you will have to relay them but I find them good enough not to need to replace my Piaa spot`s that "got broken"
Have a good one
Tim

 

Why the relay?

I got the impression you had them in the main headlamp rather than driving lamps...

 

Due to the fact the bulb`s are 3 times the power of standard, the wiring / switch / fuse box may melt, if you do not relay them, I use one relay per filiment (sp?) 4 in all,
Have a good one,
Tim

 

A 180/135W lamp will draw 15/13 Amps when on main beam/dip.
That's rather a lot to ask the thin OE wiring to take, not to mention the possibility of volts drop down it, when you take into consideration that it was designed for 5/4.75 Amps!

The relay just uses the headlight feed to switch itself on, and then carries the heavy current direct from the battery, via a fuse, to the lights, usually using thicker wire.

Alcazar