The locking on my UK99 turbo is playing up. Sometimes it will lock then unlock straight away. When this is the case, the door won't manually lock from inside, its as if it is jammed. Doesn't happen all the time. Any ideas? Is it the solenoid? (drivers side by the way.) How do you get the solenoid out?

Cheers.

 

On my old man's xantia, if the central locking locks and unlocks quickly it means that something isn't shut properly.

The cars also had a habit of the central locking solenoids / motors failing so he got some momre from a scrappers just in case...

Have you got a bad contact somewhere in the solenoid wiring either on the door in question or any of the others as it may be getting a dodgy signal from showehere else?

If the door won't manually lock then it seems like something's stuck in position (solenoid again.)

Does the locking system work via the alarm - could there be a problem that way?

The solenoid would probably be in the door panel between the inner and outer skins (behind the door card and maybe the waterproofing sheet) and will probably be awkward to get at - long spindly fingers needed

I've got a wiring diagram for a bugeye - it might be somethinng similar in yours but you'd have to email me so I can return it. I can't attach it and you haven't got an email addy listed.

HTH

Apple



Just a few ideas to chuck in...

 

Had another thought...

If the locking works on the keyfob, open each door in turn (with the rest shut) and hold onto it near to the lock hole whilst you operate the locking - check to see if you can feel / hear a clunk through the door as the solenoid fires or even see the mechanism move. If you don't get anything on one or more of the doors and do get something on the others then you know which door to target...

 

A mate of mine had the same problem (although it was with a Ford) it turned out to be a faulty central locking mechanism in the drivers door. Had to be replaced.

 

I had it on a Pogo 206. It was the switch that told the interior light that the boot was open, the central locking tried to close then thought the boot was open so unlocked immediately.

Took bloody ages to find because the fluke said the switch was working OK, open circuit when the boot was open about 3 ohms when the boot was closed. Turned out the central locking needed less than 1 ohm when the boot was closed otherwise it though the switch was open. I hate electronics. Soldered a wire across the switch and just made sure the boot was closed by hand before we locked it.