Can't fault my Scoobysport CIBIE's had them 2 years now without problem

Phil

 

Go for PIAAs.... they are the dog's bits!!!!!

Carlos

 

piaa, are they in the prodrive kit?

 

The prodrive kit are hellas 100W.

Ok for the money - the rest are undoubtedly better.

T.
PS. I have the prodrive ones.

 

Prodrive: Uses Hella 1000FF light units, and a Prodrive made bracket. Fitting and wiring are easy, but alignment, and stopping it vibrating at speed, are not.
Light output, and spread are what you would expect from Hella, ie: pretty good!!
Clear covers are available from Scoobysport, as they use the same 1000FF lights in their HID kit.
Cibie: Uses Cibie light units with brackets made by Scoobysport.
Fitting, wiring, alignment and anti-vibration are all easy, and light output/spread are again what you would expect from a manufacturer like Cibie.
Clear covers are available from Scoobysport.
Cibies are ~£200, and Prodrive Hellas are less: I think I've seen 'em on here for £150.
IMHO, clear covers are a must on any lights fitted as low as the ones on a Scoob. If you haven't had one go yet, you've been lucky: check how many people on here are asking for new ones!
Alcazar

 

PIAAs are great!!!!

MAC

 

I bought a set of Scoobsport Cibies off here a week or so ago. Fitted them no probs, but haven't had much joy getting them to work with the main beam yet
any ideas guys?

 

You need a relay, one of the simple on/off types with 4 connectors underneath.
You also need a fuse, and holder, but you can get the relay with fuse inbuilt, (on top) for about £1.50 extra.
You'll need two ring connectors, at least 4 spade terminals, female type, and covers for the above.
All connectors, fuses, relay, cable etc can be had from your local car shop, Halfords, or from: sales@vehicleproducts.co.uk, also on 0115 930 5454
Using thick cable, about 28/012 will do, run a lead from the battery positive to relay terminal 30.
Now run two cables, same thickness if you're using uprated bulbs, from relay terminal87, one to each light.
Using thinner cable Scotchlok a connection into the main beam wire on one side of the car, (doesn't matter which), and run it to relay terminal 85. Take the last thinner cable from relay terminal 86 to a suitable earth pint, or back to battery negative.
The old foglight connectors are redundant, and should be taped up out of the way.
Fuses for the relay etc:
2 x 55w: 10 amps
2 x 100w: 20 amps
2 x 130w: 25 amps
Hope this helps, but please note that it refers to pre-bugeye models ONLY.
Alcazar

 

thanks for that- had tried taking a feed from the high beam but couldn't get enough juice to the spots.
cheers,
simon

 

have a look here...

 

What about using the fog light switch as a override for the driving lights to stop them coming on with full beam?

 

Thats the way I have wired them. It enbles me to turn the driving lamps off when I have the STI covers on.

 

Thanks guy- got the relays and bits yesterday and going to have a go today

 

Yes, you can use (and I have) the foglight switch to override the driving lights.
Use a second relay, this one has the main feed from the battery to it's terminal 30, and on to the other relay's terminal 30 from it's terminal 87, (instead of straight from battery pos to first relay terminal 30).
Then from one of the foglight positive(live when "on") connectors to the second relay terminal 85, and from it's terminal 86 to a suitable earth.
Alcazar

 

So using the two relay method (fog light switch as an override) Where abouts in a MY99 do you get access to the main beam circuit ??

 

At the back of one of the headlight connectors is where I did my '98.
I used a circuit tester, one of the ones with a "screwdriver" with a wire coming out of the top with a crocodile clip on one end.
Clip the croc to battery negative, remove the headlight connector by squeezing the sides together and pulling backwards, and then switch on the main beams.
Check that the one you haven't disconnected is working, then touch the "screwdriver end" of your circuit tester to each wire terminal in turn, find the one that makes it light up, and use a Scotchlok to tap into this wire: you may have to unwind a bit of loom winding tape to get at the wire.
Alcazar

 

A schematic showing the relay connections and pin layout is shown below.



Trigger relay (20 Amp 4 blade type)
-------------
Terminal 85 (trigger) to headlamp main beam (see notes below for connection details)
Terminal 86 (trigger earth) to earth mounting on bracket bolt
Terminal 30 (switched input) to existing fog lamp socket (see notes below for connection details)
Terminal 87 (switched output) to terminal 85 of main relay

Main relay (30 Amp 5 blade twin make and break type)
----------
Terminal 85 (trigger) to terminal 87 of trigger relay
Terminal 86 (trigger earth) to earth mounting on bracket bolt
Terminal 30 (switched input) to splash proof fuse holder output
Terminal 87 (switched output) to right driving lamp
Terminal 87 (switched output) to left driving lamp

 

Terminal Number 30 on the bottom of the relay!!![img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]
'Ere mate, you winding me up???
Alcazar

 

I wouldnt wind you up If it makes you happier turn it around then its at the top

 

QUOTE "Terminal 85 (trigger) to headlamp main beam (see notes below for connection details)"

Is there a better option than cutting into the main beam wire?

 

Yes, pull the connector off the headlamp bulb, pull back the rubber boot on the connector, open the back of the connector (two small plastic clips hold the back on the connector) solder a wire onto the main beam terminal... this way you don't have to break or expose any of the original wiring.

 

The see note below comment was in the original thread
here maybe didn't make too much sense when viewed in isolation

 

You don't actually cut the wiring if you use a Scotchlok, only a tiny bit of the insulation. The trigger needs so little current that Scotchloks are ideal.
Silversmith: when I said "bottom" of relay, I meant base.......oh never mind:
Alcazar

 

Oh I see Alchie my old mate !

 

Thanks for everyones help ~ my lights are now working great

cheers,
simon

 

I have yet to get all my bits. Which wire is the main beam wire (+ve) on a MY99?

 

The yellow (top) wire on the three pin plug on the back of the headlamp bulb

 

Has anyone worked out that the headlamp bulbs have a permanent live feed when the lights are on and that each circuit earths through the switch? This means that if you connect your trigger feed to the main beam circuit, you get the lights on with dip (and vice-versa)

Mike

 

I sussed that out when I got pulled

Being an ex Volvo driver I tend to driver with my side lights on I got stopped and asked why I had my driving lights on

Of course as soon as you put your dipped lights on they go off

Phil

 

Mike
On an STi7 maybe, but not on a MY99