ScoobySport Cibie or Prodrive(Subaru) drive lights
04 February 2003, 12:19 PM
#4
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The prodrive kit are hellas 100W.
Ok for the money - the rest are undoubtedly better.
T.
PS. I have the prodrive ones.
05 February 2003, 02:39 PM
#5
Prodrive: Uses Hella 1000FF light units, and a Prodrive made bracket. Fitting and wiring are easy, but alignment, and stopping it vibrating at speed, are not.
Light output, and spread are what you would expect from Hella, ie: pretty good!!
Clear covers are available from Scoobysport, as they use the same 1000FF lights in their HID kit.
Cibie: Uses Cibie light units with brackets made by Scoobysport.
Fitting, wiring, alignment and anti-vibration are all easy, and light output/spread are again what you would expect from a manufacturer like Cibie.
Clear covers are available from Scoobysport.
Cibies are ~£200, and Prodrive Hellas are less: I think I've seen 'em on here for £150.
IMHO, clear covers are a must on any lights fitted as low as the ones on a Scoob. If you haven't had one go yet, you've been lucky: check how many people on here are asking for new ones!
Alcazar
Light output, and spread are what you would expect from Hella, ie: pretty good!!
Clear covers are available from Scoobysport, as they use the same 1000FF lights in their HID kit.
Cibie: Uses Cibie light units with brackets made by Scoobysport.
Fitting, wiring, alignment and anti-vibration are all easy, and light output/spread are again what you would expect from a manufacturer like Cibie.
Clear covers are available from Scoobysport.
Cibies are ~£200, and Prodrive Hellas are less: I think I've seen 'em on here for £150.
IMHO, clear covers are a must on any lights fitted as low as the ones on a Scoob. If you haven't had one go yet, you've been lucky: check how many people on here are asking for new ones!
Alcazar
07 February 2003, 03:07 PM
#7
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I bought a set of Scoobsport Cibies off here a week or so ago. Fitted them no probs, but haven't had much joy getting them to work with the main beam yet
any ideas guys?
any ideas guys?
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07 February 2003, 09:59 PM
#8
You need a relay, one of the simple on/off types with 4 connectors underneath.
You also need a fuse, and holder, but you can get the relay with fuse inbuilt, (on top) for about £1.50 extra.
You'll need two ring connectors, at least 4 spade terminals, female type, and covers for the above.
All connectors, fuses, relay, cable etc can be had from your local car shop, Halfords, or from: sales@vehicleproducts.co.uk, also on 0115 930 5454
Using thick cable, about 28/012 will do, run a lead from the battery positive to relay terminal 30.
Now run two cables, same thickness if you're using uprated bulbs, from relay terminal87, one to each light.
Using thinner cable Scotchlok a connection into the main beam wire on one side of the car, (doesn't matter which), and run it to relay terminal 85. Take the last thinner cable from relay terminal 86 to a suitable earth pint, or back to battery negative.
The old foglight connectors are redundant, and should be taped up out of the way.
Fuses for the relay etc:
2 x 55w: 10 amps
2 x 100w: 20 amps
2 x 130w: 25 amps
Hope this helps, but please note that it refers to pre-bugeye models ONLY.
Alcazar
You also need a fuse, and holder, but you can get the relay with fuse inbuilt, (on top) for about £1.50 extra.
You'll need two ring connectors, at least 4 spade terminals, female type, and covers for the above.
All connectors, fuses, relay, cable etc can be had from your local car shop, Halfords, or from: sales@vehicleproducts.co.uk, also on 0115 930 5454
Using thick cable, about 28/012 will do, run a lead from the battery positive to relay terminal 30.
Now run two cables, same thickness if you're using uprated bulbs, from relay terminal87, one to each light.
Using thinner cable Scotchlok a connection into the main beam wire on one side of the car, (doesn't matter which), and run it to relay terminal 85. Take the last thinner cable from relay terminal 86 to a suitable earth pint, or back to battery negative.
The old foglight connectors are redundant, and should be taped up out of the way.
Fuses for the relay etc:
2 x 55w: 10 amps
2 x 100w: 20 amps
2 x 130w: 25 amps
Hope this helps, but please note that it refers to pre-bugeye models ONLY.
Alcazar
09 February 2003, 05:10 PM
#14
Yes, you can use (and I have) the foglight switch to override the driving lights.
Use a second relay, this one has the main feed from the battery to it's terminal 30, and on to the other relay's terminal 30 from it's terminal 87, (instead of straight from battery pos to first relay terminal 30).
Then from one of the foglight positive(live when "on") connectors to the second relay terminal 85, and from it's terminal 86 to a suitable earth.
Alcazar
Use a second relay, this one has the main feed from the battery to it's terminal 30, and on to the other relay's terminal 30 from it's terminal 87, (instead of straight from battery pos to first relay terminal 30).
Then from one of the foglight positive(live when "on") connectors to the second relay terminal 85, and from it's terminal 86 to a suitable earth.
Alcazar
09 February 2003, 07:15 PM
#16
At the back of one of the headlight connectors is where I did my '98.
I used a circuit tester, one of the ones with a "screwdriver" with a wire coming out of the top with a crocodile clip on one end.
Clip the croc to battery negative, remove the headlight connector by squeezing the sides together and pulling backwards, and then switch on the main beams.
Check that the one you haven't disconnected is working, then touch the "screwdriver end" of your circuit tester to each wire terminal in turn, find the one that makes it light up, and use a Scotchlok to tap into this wire: you may have to unwind a bit of loom winding tape to get at the wire.
Alcazar
I used a circuit tester, one of the ones with a "screwdriver" with a wire coming out of the top with a crocodile clip on one end.
Clip the croc to battery negative, remove the headlight connector by squeezing the sides together and pulling backwards, and then switch on the main beams.
Check that the one you haven't disconnected is working, then touch the "screwdriver end" of your circuit tester to each wire terminal in turn, find the one that makes it light up, and use a Scotchlok to tap into this wire: you may have to unwind a bit of loom winding tape to get at the wire.
Alcazar
09 February 2003, 08:41 PM
#17
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A schematic showing the relay connections and pin layout is shown below.
Trigger relay (20 Amp 4 blade type)
-------------
Terminal 85 (trigger) to headlamp main beam (see notes below for connection details)
Terminal 86 (trigger earth) to earth mounting on bracket bolt
Terminal 30 (switched input) to existing fog lamp socket (see notes below for connection details)
Terminal 87 (switched output) to terminal 85 of main relay
Main relay (30 Amp 5 blade twin make and break type)
----------
Terminal 85 (trigger) to terminal 87 of trigger relay
Terminal 86 (trigger earth) to earth mounting on bracket bolt
Terminal 30 (switched input) to splash proof fuse holder output
Terminal 87 (switched output) to right driving lamp
Terminal 87 (switched output) to left driving lamp
Trigger relay (20 Amp 4 blade type)
-------------
Terminal 85 (trigger) to headlamp main beam (see notes below for connection details)
Terminal 86 (trigger earth) to earth mounting on bracket bolt
Terminal 30 (switched input) to existing fog lamp socket (see notes below for connection details)
Terminal 87 (switched output) to terminal 85 of main relay
Main relay (30 Amp 5 blade twin make and break type)
----------
Terminal 85 (trigger) to terminal 87 of trigger relay
Terminal 86 (trigger earth) to earth mounting on bracket bolt
Terminal 30 (switched input) to splash proof fuse holder output
Terminal 87 (switched output) to right driving lamp
Terminal 87 (switched output) to left driving lamp
09 February 2003, 09:47 PM
#21
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Yes, pull the connector off the headlamp bulb, pull back the rubber boot on the connector, open the back of the connector (two small plastic clips hold the back on the connector) solder a wire onto the main beam terminal... this way you don't have to break or expose any of the original wiring.
10 February 2003, 10:47 AM
#23
You don't actually cut the wiring if you use a Scotchlok, only a tiny bit of the insulation. The trigger needs so little current that Scotchloks are ideal.
Silversmith: when I said "bottom" of relay, I meant base.......oh never mind
:
Alcazar
Silversmith: when I said "bottom" of relay, I meant base.......oh never mind
:Alcazar
11 February 2003, 12:33 PM
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Has anyone worked out that the headlamp bulbs have a permanent live feed when the lights are on and that each circuit earths through the switch? This means that if you connect your trigger feed to the main beam circuit, you get the lights on with dip (and vice-versa)
Mike
Mike
11 February 2003, 12:50 PM
#29
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I sussed that out when I got pulled
Being an ex Volvo driver I tend to driver with my side lights on I got stopped and asked why I had my driving lights on
Of course as soon as you put your dipped lights on they go off
Phil
Being an ex Volvo driver I tend to driver with my side lights on I got stopped and asked why I had my driving lights on
Of course as soon as you put your dipped lights on they go off
Phil