Swap a GDA wiring loom and ecu in my GC8 my96?
25 May 2016, 11:23 PM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: netherland
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Swap a GDA wiring loom and ecu in my GC8 my96?
Hello guys, i am thinking about making my gc8 a lot faster and i was thinking about swapping my engine with an EJ207 with oem ecu and avcs working. But the thing is i want to keep my original my96 dash and cluster etc. At this point i got a full bugeye STI for parts.. and i was thinking why should i not swap the complete engine wiring loom with engine and stuff?
Would it fit if i use the ecu part of the wiring loom to the engine and use for the rest of the stuff of my my96 impreza wiring so i can keep the oem dash and cluster.. would this be possible?
What kind of isseu's should i get? The bugeye doesnt got an immobilizer..
Would it fit if i use the ecu part of the wiring loom to the engine and use for the rest of the stuff of my my96 impreza wiring so i can keep the oem dash and cluster.. would this be possible?
What kind of isseu's should i get? The bugeye doesnt got an immobilizer..
26 May 2016, 08:21 AM
#2
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Coventry
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Don't think it would be possible mate I hate a 94 wrx and crashed so bought a 1999 UK 2000 and just wanted to put my engine in and people told me I can just swap engine loom won't take long and i had to end up swapping everything you can think of to make it work it was a joke dash board complete car wiring all the way to the back lights abs pump because plugs different, I think to do it you may have to swap the dash as well but I'm not sure you may be lucky
26 May 2016, 10:07 AM
#5
It is possible, I would think. Stripping out the engine-related part of the looms will probably be the most time consuming. You will need to use the newage ECU of course.
Most non-engine related connections to the ECU should be fairly easy to work around. Off the top of my head:
- tacho drive. This should be compatible.
- dash coolant gauge. I'm not sure the scaling of the sensors is the same, so this might not work.
- fuel pump. Newage uses a controller, but this isn't necessary as many people bypass them anyway - might need a relay; or use the newage controller of course.
- there are some other signals that the newage has but the classic doesn't. I don't think these should stop the engine firing up but might throw fault codes.
Best approach is to get the engine wiring diagrams for both model years and compare the ECU signals to see what's needed.
Swapping the entire vehicle loom too will be fraught with difficulty.
Most non-engine related connections to the ECU should be fairly easy to work around. Off the top of my head:
- tacho drive. This should be compatible.
- dash coolant gauge. I'm not sure the scaling of the sensors is the same, so this might not work.
- fuel pump. Newage uses a controller, but this isn't necessary as many people bypass them anyway - might need a relay; or use the newage controller of course.
- there are some other signals that the newage has but the classic doesn't. I don't think these should stop the engine firing up but might throw fault codes.
Best approach is to get the engine wiring diagrams for both model years and compare the ECU signals to see what's needed.
Swapping the entire vehicle loom too will be fraught with difficulty.
26 May 2016, 10:21 AM
#6
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: netherland
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It is possible, I would think. Stripping out the engine-related part of the looms will probably be the most time consuming. You will need to use the newage ECU of course.
Most non-engine related connections to the ECU should be fairly easy to work around. Off the top of my head:
- tacho drive. This should be compatible.
- dash coolant gauge. I'm not sure the scaling of the sensors is the same, so this might not work.
- fuel pump. Newage uses a controller, but this isn't necessary as many people bypass them anyway - might need a relay; or use the newage controller of course.
- there are some other signals that the newage has but the classic doesn't. I don't think these should stop the engine firing up but might throw fault codes.
Best approach is to get the engine wiring diagrams for both model years and compare the ECU signals to see what's needed.
Swapping the entire vehicle loom too will be fraught with difficulty.
Most non-engine related connections to the ECU should be fairly easy to work around. Off the top of my head:
- tacho drive. This should be compatible.
- dash coolant gauge. I'm not sure the scaling of the sensors is the same, so this might not work.
- fuel pump. Newage uses a controller, but this isn't necessary as many people bypass them anyway - might need a relay; or use the newage controller of course.
- there are some other signals that the newage has but the classic doesn't. I don't think these should stop the engine firing up but might throw fault codes.
Best approach is to get the engine wiring diagrams for both model years and compare the ECU signals to see what's needed.
Swapping the entire vehicle loom too will be fraught with difficulty.
will take a look at the controller you mean the one in the trunk around the filling hole of the fueltank?
Last edited by dennieboy96; 26 May 2016 at 10:23 AM.