Classic door lock solenoid
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Scooby Regular
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: South Essex
Buzzing drivers door solenoid - fixed and how to
Hey all.
I have an MY99 Classic Wagon. It has a nasty buzzing sound when I lock it. Unlock is normal. I found out that the solenoid gears had broken a few teeth, so Matty sent me a replacement....but question is how to fit it.
I had booked next week off to fit my exhaust, components, amps and solenoid but since I am now in charge of the kid all week....I only have tomorrow and Sunday.
Any help on replacing it will be most appreciated. I am competent with wiring etc but mechanical stuff stumps me.
J
I have an MY99 Classic Wagon. It has a nasty buzzing sound when I lock it. Unlock is normal. I found out that the solenoid gears had broken a few teeth, so Matty sent me a replacement....but question is how to fit it.
I had booked next week off to fit my exhaust, components, amps and solenoid but since I am now in charge of the kid all week....I only have tomorrow and Sunday.
Any help on replacing it will be most appreciated. I am competent with wiring etc but mechanical stuff stumps me.
J
Last edited by funkmasterjay; Jan 12, 2013 at 12:13 AM. Reason: Found a solution. Also changed heading for easier search for other people.
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 423
Likes: 0
From: South Essex
Ok, so I have had this irritating buzzing noise when I lock my door (either manually or by remote). Unlock is fine.
This led me to believe (remembering my rear wiper mechanism) that it was probably a broken cog. As per my first port, I thought as such.
When I took the door apart, I discovered that just like many Japanese and Korean cars, remote central locking was fitted at the dealer.....hence why I discovered a shoddily installed 2 wire actuator. Thankfully, the oem parts on the car we fine, but when I tested the mechanism wig the door card off, the actuator was buzzing.
It is only a £4 eBay part but while it was there, I decided to see if I could fix it.
The casing is only held together by plastic lips, so a small flat screw driver will open it. Luckily it was all intact n there, so I just greased it up and closed it. Alas, it was still buzzing, but not when I held it tight.
With no screws to tighten, I resorted to cable ties to replicate me holding it tight in my hand. Et voila, 3 cable ties along the body to even the load and it works silently.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=2+...XtILhDsZ8lLcM:
If you also have this issue, just save yourself the hassle and order a new 2 wire slave actuator from maplin or any audio retailer.
Terribly sorry I did not take pics, but it was dark and cold.
J
This led me to believe (remembering my rear wiper mechanism) that it was probably a broken cog. As per my first port, I thought as such.
When I took the door apart, I discovered that just like many Japanese and Korean cars, remote central locking was fitted at the dealer.....hence why I discovered a shoddily installed 2 wire actuator. Thankfully, the oem parts on the car we fine, but when I tested the mechanism wig the door card off, the actuator was buzzing.
It is only a £4 eBay part but while it was there, I decided to see if I could fix it.
The casing is only held together by plastic lips, so a small flat screw driver will open it. Luckily it was all intact n there, so I just greased it up and closed it. Alas, it was still buzzing, but not when I held it tight.
With no screws to tighten, I resorted to cable ties to replicate me holding it tight in my hand. Et voila, 3 cable ties along the body to even the load and it works silently.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=2+...XtILhDsZ8lLcM:
If you also have this issue, just save yourself the hassle and order a new 2 wire slave actuator from maplin or any audio retailer.
Terribly sorry I did not take pics, but it was dark and cold.
J
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