Lee

1. tweeter settings..why not just try and see what suits you best.

2. Get yerself a copy of MaxPower ! They list subs/amps etc. Most important is to get an amp with plenty of power reserves.
e.g. my amp produces up to 300W rms..the speaker will take 300W rms a good combo you would have thought..but after about 2 hours loud running the amp gets stinking hot and cuts out for a while. Would be better to get a 500W amp and run it with less gain.

3. 10" vs 12"..

a 12 will produce more output (more surface area) and can go lower in frequency, but takes longer to physically move. This results in a slightly delayed sound. Typically the boy-racer drum-n-bass where the bass shakes down the car.
a 10 can move quicker and as such reacts faster, this is what is meant by tighter, punchier sound.

I have a 10" sub and it goes very low and can still shake the car, but is more musical i.e. goes well with most sorts of normal music not just bass-ey tunes.

James_Harvey

Being new to this game, I would appreciate some advice.

I recently purchased a set of Infinity Reference 600cs components (6.5" Woofer, tweater and crossover) to run off my Pioneer head unit.

Question: The crossover has 2 settings for the tweater connection, marked Flat and Soft. Any comments about which is best for the Scoob? The tweaters are being mounted infront of the door handles.

Secondly, I am currently running the standard rear speakers, but will be looking at binning these soon in favour of an Amp / Sub combination. Any recomendations? If possible, I would also like to run the components from the same amp as my head unit only has one set of pre-outs.

Thirdly, Whats the difference between a 10" and 12" Sub. People talk about "faster tighter bass" but what does that mean in real terms. Which would mach my components best?

Thanks in advance.........

[This message has been edited by James_Harvey (edited 14-09-1999).]

firefox

Hi there,

Are you going to keep your rear speakers ?

I would use them as "fillers", and then connect up the amp for the bass, using a cross-over (unless your head unit has a dedicated sub output ?)

Cheers,

J. (audio stuff isnt my area...but who cares)

robski

re 1 set of preouts, you can split with splitters (no way, really!) or more sophisticated is to use an active crossover before the amp. Small ones designed for indash work great in the glove box, and usually convert 1 RCA to 3. Front,rear,sub.
Go that way if you can afford.

Subs, 8,10,12,15,18
forget 15 and 18, they flap.
8. U may want 2 of these, awesome for fast tight dance music, often ignored due to lower power rating. Work well free air, i.e. in rear shelf, but will loose some real low bass this way.
10. As Lee says, probably the best for accurate music as well as being capable of some serious lows.
12. A must for SPL, and boys. Not your best choice for dance, a must for drum and bass.

Also look at the choice of box, tube, sealed, ported, etc etc

My favourite is a simple isobaric. Get two identical subs. Buy 1 box (or make) and fit one sub in the normal way, and mount the other sub face on to this one so that they share the same cone air. Use a good amp, and wire one positive and the other negative, 8's in this setup are awesome cos they handle the lower frequencies a lot better.

Also bear in mind that not everything sounds as good in one vehicle as another.

Sorry to confuse things

Robski