Door Speakers
#1
www.planetaudio.co.uk for both of the ones I mentioned.
Anyone bought stuff from them before?
Whip
[Edited by whip - 2/1/2002 5:19:58 PM]
Anyone bought stuff from them before?
Whip
[Edited by whip - 2/1/2002 5:19:58 PM]
#2
Hi all
Apologies for posting what must be the most rehashed thread ever, but I need some help.
I want to upgrade the door speakers in my MY00, based on what I can afford. Looked at the Kenwood KFC-P602 16cm components, which come with a 25mm dome tweeter. Are there any problems with clearance on these, and will the tweeter fit the door tweeter panel?
From looking at old threads the Infinity 605s are highly rated. I've found the Kenwoods for £63 and the 605's are £73.
I'm interested in how the two compare and ease-of-installation. Also is the stock speaker wire up to the job or not?
I'll be running them from a Sony CDX-C8000R head unit with no amp, if I put an amp it it will be to drive a sub.
Whip
Apologies for posting what must be the most rehashed thread ever, but I need some help.
I want to upgrade the door speakers in my MY00, based on what I can afford. Looked at the Kenwood KFC-P602 16cm components, which come with a 25mm dome tweeter. Are there any problems with clearance on these, and will the tweeter fit the door tweeter panel?
From looking at old threads the Infinity 605s are highly rated. I've found the Kenwoods for £63 and the 605's are £73.
I'm interested in how the two compare and ease-of-installation. Also is the stock speaker wire up to the job or not?
I'll be running them from a Sony CDX-C8000R head unit with no amp, if I put an amp it it will be to drive a sub.
Whip
#4
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If you are serious about only spending £70, you should note those Planetaudio prices don't include vat or delivery so you are looking at just under £100. If you could go a bit more to £119 I can recommend Kenwood KFC-PSR70P components. I am running some off a headunit with the factory wire upto the crossovers and frankly I could not ask for much more (for the present time, he says tentatively ) Didn't realise how spekers needed to "run in" but after a week they are sounding noticeabley better every day. The 17cm mids did not quite just drop in and required me to buy a new spacer but no problems with the mounting depth. The tweeters in their direction adjustable pods stuck under the handle grills perfectly.
#5
Cheers for the info BoostII
I wasn't looking at spending loads basically as I don't plan on installing an amp, therefore there's no point in going 'overkill' on the components given that the head unit amp won't do them justice.
I don't want any hassle fitting them as I'll probably just mess it up unless it's straightforward. The KFC P602s are 74.99 at Hendon car audio including vat and delivery so that sounds like a good bet.
Whip
I wasn't looking at spending loads basically as I don't plan on installing an amp, therefore there's no point in going 'overkill' on the components given that the head unit amp won't do them justice.
I don't want any hassle fitting them as I'll probably just mess it up unless it's straightforward. The KFC P602s are 74.99 at Hendon car audio including vat and delivery so that sounds like a good bet.
Whip
#6
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Hendon Car audio........ Go and visit,then tell me if you would buy off them?????
Sorry but the advertising covers a very badly run poor service company.
Sorry but the advertising covers a very badly run poor service company.
#7
One of the problems with buying off the net m8, cheers for the heads-up.
I've just been looking through the links that were posted here a few days ago to get some idea of prices. Will probably end up going to a local audio place when I've decided, unless someone can recommend another place on the net?
Whip
I've just been looking through the links that were posted here a few days ago to get some idea of prices. Will probably end up going to a local audio place when I've decided, unless someone can recommend another place on the net?
Whip
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#8
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Whip
I would echo Luke's sentiments on Hendon car stereo. That "beat any price on the net by £5" is nothing short of a lie. I ordered from locostcaraudio.com and Car Electronics ltd and would rate them very highly in terms of helpful advice and speedy delivery - also rock bottom prices.
[Edited by Boost II - 2/2/2002 2:16:39 PM]
I would echo Luke's sentiments on Hendon car stereo. That "beat any price on the net by £5" is nothing short of a lie. I ordered from locostcaraudio.com and Car Electronics ltd and would rate them very highly in terms of helpful advice and speedy delivery - also rock bottom prices.
[Edited by Boost II - 2/2/2002 2:16:39 PM]
#9
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The P602 are frankly crap compared with PS70P or Infinity 605CS. I fitted similar to a Peugeot 406.
If you don't want to amp them the PS70P are an excellent choice but considerably more expensive than either of the other two. 605CS are weedy off a headunit. Cheaper Kenwood components are not up to much IMHO.
If you don't want to amp them the PS70P are an excellent choice but considerably more expensive than either of the other two. 605CS are weedy off a headunit. Cheaper Kenwood components are not up to much IMHO.
#10
Cheers for the info.
Having taken in all your comments I've had another look at what's available and think that the Infinity 655i might be right for the job. They're physically the same size as the 605cs so should be a straightforward fit, but as they're a coaxial there's no crossover to sap power (which is why I'm told the 605's really need an amp).
Any thoughts?
Whip
Having taken in all your comments I've had another look at what's available and think that the Infinity 655i might be right for the job. They're physically the same size as the 605cs so should be a straightforward fit, but as they're a coaxial there's no crossover to sap power (which is why I'm told the 605's really need an amp).
Any thoughts?
Whip
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However you will not get as good imaging as the tweeter is by you calf, and the "crossover" will be a 6dB/octave passive in the form of an electrolytic capacitor.
I bought coaxials first and later swapped for components I suggest you DON'T do the same.
I bought coaxials first and later swapped for components I suggest you DON'T do the same.
#12
Imaging...fair point. I have thought of that but as I'm used to the OE speakers and their location (and never really had a problem with the staging) I don't really have a problem with it staying that way.
Loss of power through the crossovers, that's more of a concern. I'm admittedly a novice when it comes to all this but would just like to improve on the yoghurt cartons that seem to be installed at the factory. Are you saying the 655s will sap power in the same way as the 605 crossovers?
Cheers for your advice btw m8, it's appreciated.
Whip
Loss of power through the crossovers, that's more of a concern. I'm admittedly a novice when it comes to all this but would just like to improve on the yoghurt cartons that seem to be installed at the factory. Are you saying the 655s will sap power in the same way as the 605 crossovers?
Cheers for your advice btw m8, it's appreciated.
Whip
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They possibly won't sap as much power but even if they sap 50% that is only a 3dB reduction!
The imaging and quality of components IS worth it. Until you have heard component imaging you literally don't know what you were missing.
The imaging and quality of components IS worth it. Until you have heard component imaging you literally don't know what you were missing.
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John
Is the problem with cheap coax speakers mainly the cross over???
Top flight, like DLS etc coaxs have full offboard c/overs. I find that having a good tweeter is the most important thing. Sticking tweeters more than 4-5 inches away from the mid sounds a bit weird.
Also what is this craze for Titanium tweeters about????? They sound horrid
Is the problem with cheap coax speakers mainly the cross over???
Top flight, like DLS etc coaxs have full offboard c/overs. I find that having a good tweeter is the most important thing. Sticking tweeters more than 4-5 inches away from the mid sounds a bit weird.
Also what is this craze for Titanium tweeters about????? They sound horrid
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Agree with you Luke.
I was only discussing the crossovers because it was raised. I don't think they are the main problem. Also agree about the distance from the woofer and quality of tweeter, but if you want to keep factory positions, I think in a Scoob components sound much better. Ideally we would have coaxials as it would all be better coming from a point source, but the positioning in a lot of car doors seems to limit us if we want something simple.
I prefer the sound of silk to titanium but that is maybe because of my music tastes?
I was only discussing the crossovers because it was raised. I don't think they are the main problem. Also agree about the distance from the woofer and quality of tweeter, but if you want to keep factory positions, I think in a Scoob components sound much better. Ideally we would have coaxials as it would all be better coming from a point source, but the positioning in a lot of car doors seems to limit us if we want something simple.
I prefer the sound of silk to titanium but that is maybe because of my music tastes?
#18
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John and others
If you could,where would you have your tweeters facing in the car. In line with the Mids??? or higher towars the middle of the car about head hight???
If you could,where would you have your tweeters facing in the car. In line with the Mids??? or higher towars the middle of the car about head hight???
#20
I think the tweeters are meant to be as close as possible to the woofers whilst having a clear line of sight (err, line of hearing?) to the listener, and always in the same plane as the woofer. They should also be aimed at the other side's passenger so firing across the closest listener rather than at them.
As usual, all guidelines & quite often very wrong! I find sticking the woofers in place & then attaching the tweeters using blue-tack & moving them around does wonders
As usual, all guidelines & quite often very wrong! I find sticking the woofers in place & then attaching the tweeters using blue-tack & moving them around does wonders
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