djuk

Evening all

I've stupidly agreed to assist a family member fit a sub/amp to their car and just want to clarify things before I go blowing stuff up

The rear of the amp itself is show on the picture below, its going to be used entirely for the subwoofer - the speakers will continue to be run from the headunit.

Now this may be a silly question but how do I connect the amp to the sub, is it just bog standard speaker wire and which terminals should I use on the amp? The sub's connections are also in the bottom picture.

Cheers

David

Scoobyslammed

I'd use some fairly think wire... you don't want thin crap...
You want your pre-outs from the back of your headunit to go to the inputs in your amp... you also wanna run a amp flick on wire down, normally a thin blue wire from the back of the headunit... to the amp...
If your just powering 1 sub only... bridge the amp... looking at the picture... its the 1st + ( left to right ) you wanna connect and the 2nd - ... then connect the other end of the wire to the sub... simple...!

ru'

Looking at the amp, if you don't have pre-outs (line level) on your HU (or don't want to wire phono leads) then you can wire the 'speaker leads into the amp (the white block on the far left hand side of your picture).


This won't be as good as line levels connections, and you need to have the LPF (low pass filter; it'll let the bass through and nothing else) switched 'in' (which you'll have to do anyway if the HU can't filter just the bass to the line level pre-outs). You can wire these from the rear 'speakers.

You'll need to wire a positive feed from the battery, make sure you have a 30 amo fuse right next to the wire from the battery (and use decent thick cable). The negative line to the amp can be attached to the chassis somewhere near the amp (find a suitable big-ish bolt, and make sure it's through to the metal not the paint).

As stated above, the 'REM' (remote, for remote power on) bit of the power terminals (far right hand side of your picture) needs to go to the HU (maybe the remote aerial output) or at very least (not ideal) the switched positive feed from your ignition (this will also be present at the HU).

If you don't wire the remote wire, you'll have to connect it to the postivie feed to the amp for the amp to work, and then it'll be on all the time. This will flatten your battery suprisingly quickly when the car isn't running (you could wire this with a switch, but it's hassle turning it on every time you use the car - I did this, forgot and had to get the AA out to jump start me so I could get to a meeting. Bogus.).

I'm a bit drunk at the moment (not that what I've said is wrong), but post any questions you have and I'm sure you'll get decent answers here.

djuk

Cheers guys worked a treat