Propper rubbish day !!! Nackered !! suppose to be going for map tomoro but not looking like I'm gonna be able to get the car there, sorry si

Fitted another turbo a few days ago (sc38) only been driven a cupple of times off boost to make sure its was all running ok, had smell of coolant coming through vents
Got home popped hood coolant leaking from weakest point such as header tank cap and header tank to turbo hose, also top rad hose was solid...Hoped it was a air lock...

Done a coolant change this eve noticed the top rad hose on my99 flexing as i gave it light revs..how normal / abnormal is this

Everything I have read so far is unbearable news with what the issues could be...

No oil in coolant....
Car not over heating....
No weird noises ....
Constant hot air from vents ....


Hellllp

You loosing coolant at all? Normally weakest point would be heater matrix.
Sounds like a air look tho try jacking up driver side have her running with no rad cap on blowers blasting on hot and just squeeze rad hoses.
Nothing else has changed just turbo?

Hi sonic, no not loosing coolant, I changed the clutch a few weeks back so engine has been out recently but have been driving the car since then without issues.....
The turbo swap has been done over the last week and have only really noticed the issues since then.

I tried a coolant change Late yesterday evening but the problem is still there

Right I burped system about midday system still got resonably pressurised but got less so the longer I let It run... Sooooooo
Went back out there now (4pm) and let it tick over with a few revs, now:

Top pipe pressurised
Bottom pipe pressured
Coolant coming through rad cap on header tank


.......

Not overheating ..... No bubbles .... No oil in coolant.... No white smoke .... No damp patch in passenger footwell ....no drips .... No wired sounds

The only things I have noticed ...... Is :

Top pipe pressurised
Bottom pipe pressured
Coolant coming from rad cap
Very intermitent smell of coolant through air vents inside...


I have had to cancel my map today with jgm so disappointed is not the word any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Csf

get a sniff test done

And then drain and refill. PROPERLY!!! Burping it is too hit-or-miss.

Hi alcazar

When re filling do I need to remove the small or large hose going to rad from header tank, and do I remove from header tank or rad end
I no how to back fill and I've never had a issues before but never removed that hose previously, also been advised by a few people to jack up front of car whilst doing it ??
To drain system is it only the bottom rad hose or do I need to remove any of the hoses on back of engine,..

Speaking to a few friends they seem to think either air in system or turbo issue

Regards
Csf

Shhhhhhh.... Don't say that I'm hoping for the best not worst posible outcome

If its any help,
When i refilled my coolant after new heater matrix and radiator i poured coolant down one leg of the heater matrix till it came out the other side, then filled the top hose up from radiator as far as i could, while off filled radiator up, connected everything back up, then filled normally through rad cap, took it for a spin, let it cool, checked and topped and no problems.
Beginners luck ?

Drain by removing bottom hose and leaving it for a while.

To refill, remove the rear-most hose from the metal header tank and stuff a funnel down it, refill slowly without allowing it to gulp.

Replace hose when liquid appears in header tank and top up. Start and run engine watching for bubbles, top up or mop up as required.

When the fans start, switch off, replace cap and drive round the block. Allow to cool and re-check level at header tank.

Faulty pressure cap on header tank ??

Rules it out before you go wasting time

Yep I have the back hose to turbo to backfill the system which I have always done,
just afew people have said to remove one of The two hoses that that go FORWARD I think one ( larger ) goes to rad and (smaller ) the other goes to the coolant overflow.... Think it allows any air to vent to atmosphere, somthing along the lines of backfilling the system till the coolant comes out it then reconnecting it.... I'm getting confused as some say the smaller and some say the larger ffs ... I cannot see it been the smaller but need to no what end I disconect at ...

My way of doing a coolant change is :

1: discon bottom rad hose till fully drained
( although this time I may remove rad to drain properly also discon the outlet pipe from bulkhead to engine to drain everything .. Thoughts on this ?? )

2) jack up front of car ??? ( another tip given ??)

3) backfill SLOWLY via back hose from header tank to turbo ..

4) once filled heater to full and on and car running with header tank cap off

5) squeeze all coolant lines to force air out (burp) ..

6) allow to reach full temp, wait for fans once they have kicked it top up header tank as needed.

7) take for short drive, return home alow to cool down and check tank and refil again if needed...



How dose this seem to you ?

The cap was fine prior to turbo change, surly a tank cap won't go overnight, secondly how would a faulty tank cap pressurise a coolant system ?

Agreed stig, I am thinking about it, I may buy one if them fluid kits of eBay and check via header tank, I just cannot get how a turbo change would give me a hg prob esp as its only been driven off boost.

Uppp

Hi

Re fill your cooling system in this way.

1, Turn your heater control too the hot position (if hvac you need the ignition on)

2, Engine cold remove filler cap on expansion tank (no need to touch the one on the rad) SLOWLY (take your time up to 10-15 mins) top up the header tank until it takes no more. (don't squeeze pipes as yes this can force an air-pocket through but that can also pull more air into the system)

3, Leave filler cap off and start engine you want to leave the cap off until the thermostat fully opens. (you can tell this when the return pipe from the heater matrix is the same temp as the top hose on the rad)

4, Put cap back on and leave to run until the fans kick in. Keep your eye on temp gauge at this point if going toward red switch off and start from 2 again.

Thats it - there are some circumstances where lifting the front of the engine can help but that is only when the max level of the header tank is below the highest point of the cooling system (usually top of heater matrix) we don't have this issue with Subaru

Now depending on age and model the cap on top of the radiator should have a pipe to a clearish plastic bottle on the side of the rad this is used for overflow and expansion contraction of the cooling fluid if you over fill the system. If overfilled the pressure builds until the cap releases the pressure in to the 2nd expansion tanks (or if not there to the engine bay) this could be causing your top hose to expand if the hose is getting a bit weak with age.
All you need to do from this point is put a couple of heat cycles through it and it will find its level. Do this on you drive the first couple of times then keep you eye on it.


Hope this helps :-)

Hi jim .... Thanks for thoughts on the coolant refill, I done another coolant change but still having the same issue !!! Wtf !!

also if the pipe is bulging it may be starting to perish which will then blow a hole in itself, i'd replace it now rather than have it go on you cos they aint mega expensive

Can anyone say wether a faulty turbo could produce the effects I'm having ?? I have a spare Vf28 so I'm contemplating switching the sc38 for the vf28 and seeing if I have the same issues...

All I have done is change the turbo !! And I've done 4 coolant changes now and has not resolved the issue so 2 mill % sure its not a air lock ....... Thoughts ??

was the 38 new or second hand?

The pipe is expanding and contracting with revs, the higher the revs the harder it gets, the pipe itself is fine its just what's going on inside that's the issue..

Coolant pressure is just to high !! I tried burping car this AM, then took it for a little spin round block got it back popped hood within 2 mins it was leaking from header tank cap (

Second hand, I swaped it for my sc40 never any issues with that everything was running nice...

Love ur flying cat vid btw ... Very funny

check the metal pipe that runs along the top of the rad to the expansion tank isnt blocked. water builds up in the center and starts going rusty and blocks it. i had it on my v3 classic, i used a portable tyre inflater to unblock it.

Cheers will check it out.....

Can anyone say wether a faulty turbo could produce the effects I'm having ?? I have a spare Vf28 so I'm contemplating switching the sc38 for the vf28 and seeing if I have the same issues...

All I have done is change the turbo !! And I've done 4 coolant changes now and has not resolved the issue so 2 mill % sure its not a air lock ....... Thoughts ??

^^^^anyone^^^^