HELP, calling all scooby pros
#1
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HELP, calling all scooby pros
Classic impreza wrx 1994 import overheating, fans not coming on.
Was working fine prior to a repacement turbo and decat pipes.
Left it to idle for 10-15 mins did not drive it or rev engine, fans did not come on, temp gauge top of the dial, plenty of water in her.
What do I need to check?
Cheers
Was working fine prior to a repacement turbo and decat pipes.
Left it to idle for 10-15 mins did not drive it or rev engine, fans did not come on, temp gauge top of the dial, plenty of water in her.
What do I need to check?
Cheers
#3
Don't know if fans are controlled by ECU (ecu temp sensor) or with a fan switch but it can be possible for an air lock to make one read low (fans not come on) with the dash reading high. Since you've changed the turbo, and water feeds had to come off its possible to have air in there. I have always filled via the small diameter hose that goes from the turbo to the header tank. I think this is the best way to fill the system without getting air in it. Failing that, could the new turbo have had crud in the water jacket, which is now entered the cooling system and stopped the thermostat working correctly?
#4
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Why ask a totally irrelevant question? A car doesn't overheat because it hasn't been remapped, so bored of people going on about remaps.
Don't know if fans are controlled by ECU (ecu temp sensor) or with a fan switch but it can be possible for an air lock to make one read low (fans not come on) with the dash reading high. Since you've changed the turbo, and water feeds had to come off its possible to have air in there. I have always filled via the small diameter hose that goes from the turbo to the header tank. I think this is the best way to fill the system without getting air in it. Failing that, could the new turbo have had crud in the water jacket, which is now entered the cooling system and stopped the thermostat working correctly?
Don't know if fans are controlled by ECU (ecu temp sensor) or with a fan switch but it can be possible for an air lock to make one read low (fans not come on) with the dash reading high. Since you've changed the turbo, and water feeds had to come off its possible to have air in there. I have always filled via the small diameter hose that goes from the turbo to the header tank. I think this is the best way to fill the system without getting air in it. Failing that, could the new turbo have had crud in the water jacket, which is now entered the cooling system and stopped the thermostat working correctly?
Could be something simple like a fuse? Did you unplug any electrical connections when fitting the turbo?
#6
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Thanks for trying to help, not electrical have checked fuses and relays.
Has not beed remapped yet but that shouldnt be a propb as the car was on idle so very little boost being produced
Has not beed remapped yet but that shouldnt be a propb as the car was on idle so very little boost being produced
#7
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Try removing the thermostat to drain the system completely. check the thermostat is working, kettle method is the most common. if all is fine put it back in. pull the cap off the header tank, remove the hose from the header tank to the turbo, put a funnel in the hose and refil using the correct mix of coolant. Very important that the fluid going in doesnt glug and draw air in. refilling this way you are refilling the cooling system from the bottom up and expelling air through the header tank. when you see fluid entering the header tank you can top off the normal way. Start her up, heaters set to full hot and let it idle up to temp keeping an eye on the fluid level and the temp gauge. mopping up or topping up as neccersary. The fan should kick in after a while but if the temp gauge starts going up, above halfway with no fans then there is another problem....
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