Boost leak test
03 July 2013, 05:18 PM
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Boost leak test
Hi folks I want to do a boost leak test I have got a bung that fits intake silicone hose
What do I need to block off etc etc
My car is a w reg uk 2000
I having boost problems been to specialist and its baffled him so gonna do smoke and boost leak test can any one help cheers rob
What do I need to block off etc etc
My car is a w reg uk 2000
I having boost problems been to specialist and its baffled him so gonna do smoke and boost leak test can any one help cheers rob
05 July 2013, 06:48 PM
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►*4:55►*4:55
www.youtube.com/watch?v=atretf9u-Mc
Oct 20, 2008 - Uploaded by mightycarmods
We make a home made boost pressure leak tester for our turbo car from parts you can get ...
www.youtube.com/watch?v=atretf9u-Mc
Oct 20, 2008 - Uploaded by mightycarmods
We make a home made boost pressure leak tester for our turbo car from parts you can get ...
05 July 2013, 07:18 PM
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Yes disconnect after the maf..here's another specific guide hope it'sbetter
All of these parts can be purchased at Home Depot and Autozone. The parts list has color coded letter labels to match the diagram.
Parts List: https://spreadsheets.google.com/spre...EE&output=html
Basic Instructions:
1) cut the 2 foot of 3/8" vaccume line into 2 separate pieces
2) put a "Watts 3/8 in. x 1/4 in. Brass Compression x MIP Adapter with Insert" at each end of both hoses
3) drill 2 x 3/8" holes in the 2" pvc plug and then screw each of the hoses into the 2" pvc plug
4) insert the 2" pvc plug into the silicone coupling and tighten it
5) unscrew the stem cover from the tire pressure gauge to reveal a 1/8" threaded fitting
6) screw the 1/4" to 1/8" adapter fitting onto the 1/8" threaded fitting on the tire gauge
7) screw the tire gauge onto the other end of one of the hoses
8) screw the 1/4" male compressor npt fitting into one of the sides of the 1/4" on/off ball valve
9) screw the other end of the ball valve onto the remaining end of one of the air hoses
Note: be sure to use thread tape on everything
Diagram:
Performing the Boost Leak Test:
1) Disconnect and plug the bottom hose on the purge control solenoid, the PCV, the crankcase breather hose, and remove the oil cap
2) Remove the aftermaf and connect the tester to the turbo inlet
4) Make sure the tester's on/off ball valve is in the off position
3) Connect your compressor to the tester's 1/4" npt fitting and set the compressor's regulator to a little over what you want to fill the system with
4) Turn the the tester's on/off ball valve to the on position and fill to your desired psi and then turn it off
5) Listen for hissing and use soapy water to help locate leaks
6) Fix leaks
7) Drink Beer
Quote:
Originally Posted by eminehart
I decided to write up the proper steps to all this
Turbo Inlet the correct way.
Well, the correct way to do it cap off 3 lines to the inlet hose, The PCV, the crankcase breather and the evap purge solenoid. Basically the only hoses going to the inlet that stay are the BPV recirc and the boost control solenoid return.
1. The easy one is the Evap Purge solenoid(on the inlet at the front of the car),
2. The pcv Is still easy. The breather hoses go from the inlet to each side of the engine. pull these off the tube on each side of the engine and cap them off.
3. The Crankcase breather. This is tricky to get to and requires removing the pcv valve from the hose running to the block and blocking off the line at the pcv valve. You will have to remove the intercooler to access this.
4. Remove the Oil Cap.
If you have a Grimmspeed AOS installed you just made life easier. Steps 2, 3 and 4 can be skipped and replaced by removing the middle hose on your AOS. and plugging off the hose. You have effectively removed the oil cap because the Center line is left open.
Just a note though the lines going to the AOS are never designed to see boost so you may hear boost leaks here but they are not important.
With other catchcan setups you basically disconnect the lines running from the inlet to the catch can and block them off, Skipping steps 2, and 3. You will still have to remove the oil cap.
Quick and Dirty Inlet testing
The not recommended or endorsed but quick and easy way is to do it. This is a use at your own risk kind of thing.
1. disconnect the line running to the evap purge valve and plug it off.
2. pressure test the inlet but only to about 10 PSI or so. It will most likely not cause damage to the cam seals and you will be able to hear most leaks. Be aware that there are many tubes not designed to hold boost and these shouldn't be worried about.
FMIC leak testing
Now if you are Front mounted the easy way to go is to disconnect the boost tube to the turbo and apply pressure here, You should also remove the oil cap.
Let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps.
Ryan
All of these parts can be purchased at Home Depot and Autozone. The parts list has color coded letter labels to match the diagram.
Parts List: https://spreadsheets.google.com/spre...EE&output=html
Basic Instructions:
1) cut the 2 foot of 3/8" vaccume line into 2 separate pieces
2) put a "Watts 3/8 in. x 1/4 in. Brass Compression x MIP Adapter with Insert" at each end of both hoses
3) drill 2 x 3/8" holes in the 2" pvc plug and then screw each of the hoses into the 2" pvc plug
4) insert the 2" pvc plug into the silicone coupling and tighten it
5) unscrew the stem cover from the tire pressure gauge to reveal a 1/8" threaded fitting
6) screw the 1/4" to 1/8" adapter fitting onto the 1/8" threaded fitting on the tire gauge
7) screw the tire gauge onto the other end of one of the hoses
8) screw the 1/4" male compressor npt fitting into one of the sides of the 1/4" on/off ball valve
9) screw the other end of the ball valve onto the remaining end of one of the air hoses
Note: be sure to use thread tape on everything
Diagram:
Performing the Boost Leak Test:
1) Disconnect and plug the bottom hose on the purge control solenoid, the PCV, the crankcase breather hose, and remove the oil cap
2) Remove the aftermaf and connect the tester to the turbo inlet
4) Make sure the tester's on/off ball valve is in the off position
3) Connect your compressor to the tester's 1/4" npt fitting and set the compressor's regulator to a little over what you want to fill the system with
4) Turn the the tester's on/off ball valve to the on position and fill to your desired psi and then turn it off
5) Listen for hissing and use soapy water to help locate leaks
6) Fix leaks
7) Drink Beer
Quote:
Originally Posted by eminehart
I decided to write up the proper steps to all this
Turbo Inlet the correct way.
Well, the correct way to do it cap off 3 lines to the inlet hose, The PCV, the crankcase breather and the evap purge solenoid. Basically the only hoses going to the inlet that stay are the BPV recirc and the boost control solenoid return.
1. The easy one is the Evap Purge solenoid(on the inlet at the front of the car),
2. The pcv Is still easy. The breather hoses go from the inlet to each side of the engine. pull these off the tube on each side of the engine and cap them off.
3. The Crankcase breather. This is tricky to get to and requires removing the pcv valve from the hose running to the block and blocking off the line at the pcv valve. You will have to remove the intercooler to access this.
4. Remove the Oil Cap.
If you have a Grimmspeed AOS installed you just made life easier. Steps 2, 3 and 4 can be skipped and replaced by removing the middle hose on your AOS. and plugging off the hose. You have effectively removed the oil cap because the Center line is left open.
Just a note though the lines going to the AOS are never designed to see boost so you may hear boost leaks here but they are not important.
With other catchcan setups you basically disconnect the lines running from the inlet to the catch can and block them off, Skipping steps 2, and 3. You will still have to remove the oil cap.
Quick and Dirty Inlet testing
The not recommended or endorsed but quick and easy way is to do it. This is a use at your own risk kind of thing.
1. disconnect the line running to the evap purge valve and plug it off.
2. pressure test the inlet but only to about 10 PSI or so. It will most likely not cause damage to the cam seals and you will be able to hear most leaks. Be aware that there are many tubes not designed to hold boost and these shouldn't be worried about.
FMIC leak testing
Now if you are Front mounted the easy way to go is to disconnect the boost tube to the turbo and apply pressure here, You should also remove the oil cap.
Let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps.
Ryan
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