boost solenoid (2port to 3port conversion)
Hi guys the boost solenoid on my 1998 turbo 2000 wagon has begun to die, and I am under the impression I am better to swap this for a 3 port, just wondering if anyone can give a definitive answer on how it gets hooked up, as far as I am aware the top port goes to turbo compressor, middle goes to actuator, but its the bottom im confused by as some people are saying vent to atmosphere and others say it gets plumbed into the manifold :s any pictures of how it should be will be warmly welcomed lol, and also is it 4 or 5mm hose it should run? as my old hoses appear to be 4mm but my local factor seems to reckon it should be 5mm.
Sorry for dragging on a bit lol
Sorry for dragging on a bit lol
Hi guys the boost solenoid on my 1998 turbo 2000 wagon has begun to die, and I am under the impression I am better to swap this for a 3 port, just wondering if anyone can give a definitive answer on how it gets hooked up, as far as I am aware the top port goes to turbo compressor, middle goes to actuator, but its the bottom im confused by as some people are saying vent to atmosphere and others say it gets plumbed into the manifold :s any pictures of how it should be will be warmly welcomed lol, and also is it 4 or 5mm hose it should run? as my old hoses appear to be 4mm but my local factor seems to reckon it should be 5mm.
Sorry for dragging on a bit lol
Sorry for dragging on a bit lol
For the hose I think it's 5mm from memory, if you reuse your existing hose you'll need to remove the restrictor pill as well.
I'm sure you already know but you MUST get the car mapped after fitting the 3 port as the wastegate duty / dynamics need to be lowered significantly. If you are getting the car mapped then usually the mapper will fit the 3 port as well, it only takes a few minutes.
HTH
Ben
The 3rd port is generally left venting to atmos.
For the hose I think it's 5mm from memory, if you reuse your existing hose you'll need to remove the restrictor pill as well.
I'm sure you already know but you MUST get the car mapped after fitting the 3 port as the wastegate duty / dynamics need to be lowered significantly. If you are getting the car mapped then usually the mapper will fit the 3 port as well, it only takes a few minutes.
HTH
Ben
For the hose I think it's 5mm from memory, if you reuse your existing hose you'll need to remove the restrictor pill as well.
I'm sure you already know but you MUST get the car mapped after fitting the 3 port as the wastegate duty / dynamics need to be lowered significantly. If you are getting the car mapped then usually the mapper will fit the 3 port as well, it only takes a few minutes.
HTH
Ben
The 3rd port is generally left venting to atmos.
For the hose I think it's 5mm from memory, if you reuse your existing hose you'll need to remove the restrictor pill as well.
I'm sure you already know but you MUST get the car mapped after fitting the 3 port as the wastegate duty / dynamics need to be lowered significantly. If you are getting the car mapped then usually the mapper will fit the 3 port as well, it only takes a few minutes.
HTH
Ben
For the hose I think it's 5mm from memory, if you reuse your existing hose you'll need to remove the restrictor pill as well.
I'm sure you already know but you MUST get the car mapped after fitting the 3 port as the wastegate duty / dynamics need to be lowered significantly. If you are getting the car mapped then usually the mapper will fit the 3 port as well, it only takes a few minutes.
HTH
Ben
There should be a little plastic restrictor pill in one of the hoses and if the original hoses have been replaced then it's likely that this restrictor is missing. A missing restrictor will cause the car to over boost.
Have a look here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...locations.html
Ben
Have a look here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...locations.html
Ben
There should be a little plastic restrictor pill in one of the hoses and if the original hoses have been replaced then it's likely that this restrictor is missing. A missing restrictor will cause the car to over boost.
Have a look here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...locations.html
Ben
Have a look here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...locations.html
Ben
Hi mate with it being the 2 port solenoid a missing resistor pill causes underboost not overboost, but the pill is definitely there still
Have you tried cleaning the solenoid? When they get stuck full of crap it causes overboost
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...lSolenoid#toc3
Other causes here http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...edIssues#toc11
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...lSolenoid#toc3
Other causes here http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...edIssues#toc11
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If the pill is there you should be fine then. A missing restrictor could potentially cause both over and under boosting as it is also used to stabilize pressure fluctuations.
Hi markCSC, I gave the solenoid a quick blast through with carb cleaner the other day but not a proper clean, will have another go if this snow stops soon lol, and Bengo the restrictor is definitely still there mate but still getting overboost :/ it used to only be in 4th and 5th gear about 80mph, then I replaced all the lines as they were rock solid and looked very rough round the edges (they actually snapped when i tried to get them off the t-piece) after that it got a lot worse and now happens in every gear at high revs, not sure if I have used the correct diameter hose or if its just because it no longer leaks.
5mm external diameter possibly, nearer 3mm internal dia. If you have fuel hose I guess you have 4mm internal? The smaller the diameter the less volume of air in the hoses and in theory the quicker the response of the boost control - although I haven't tested this to see if it make much difference. If they were replaced with larger internal diameter hoses and it got worse then there is perhaps some truth in that.
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