Clutch slave cylinder after refitting engine
Hi all after rebuilding the other halfs engine and fitting it today came across a slight problem and am hoping someone with more experience can help me lol
Have noticed that the clutch pedal drops straight to the floor and needs pulling back up with your foot , I'm hoping this is due to it needing bleeding possibly and nothing sinister
Clutch pivot arm was located ok and feels tight ,can't wiggle it or move it which suggests its located on the bearing ok
Is it common for it to need bleeding just after removing and refitting as wouldn't have thought so

Anyone had this happen before to them and if so was a rebleed successful or not as don't wanna be pulling engine out again if can help it lol
Car is a bugeye wrx too FYI
Have noticed that the clutch pedal drops straight to the floor and needs pulling back up with your foot , I'm hoping this is due to it needing bleeding possibly and nothing sinister

Clutch pivot arm was located ok and feels tight ,can't wiggle it or move it which suggests its located on the bearing ok
Is it common for it to need bleeding just after removing and refitting as wouldn't have thought so


Anyone had this happen before to them and if so was a rebleed successful or not as don't wanna be pulling engine out again if can help it lol

Car is a bugeye wrx too FYI
I had this......I'd refitted the engine without fitting the clutch fork into the release bearing before refitting so I had to take it all out again. There might be other explanations though.....
Hmmm clutch fork is definitely fitted in place as made sure it was in as box and engine were mated together
Just not sure why it would need rebleeding seeing as the slave wasn't touched
Just not sure why it would need rebleeding seeing as the slave wasn't touched
It will depend on how you removed the engine, if you forced the it out without removing the fork then you could have damaged the slave, but if you removed the fork before pulling the engine out then you may need to bleed the slave ( you shouldn't have to bleed it tbh), try that see how you get on.
Clutch fork was removed prior to taking engine out via the access hole and removing the pivot shaft ,but did struggle to split the engine from the box when taking it out
Will try just bleeding it first before I bolt it all together in case it needs pulling apart again cheers
Will try just bleeding it first before I bolt it all together in case it needs pulling apart again cheers
High mate same happened when I pull my lump back in. I bled it and it was fine after, Make sure you remove the slave from the box let it hang down and gravity bleed it to get all the air out.
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Cheers lads bit of an odd setup really as its a pull type slave am I right in thinking ....?.
Just trying to bleed it now is it best just to let the gravity push the air out then with the bleed nipple at the top ?
Just trying to bleed it now is it best just to let the gravity push the air out then with the bleed nipple at the top ?
Yes mate just make sure you've got the slave off the box and hanging down with the nipple to the top and let bleed out on it's own.
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Clutch all bled up and fork was correctly installed just needed bleeding as suggested
And found the best way to bleed was as stated via gravity , I just removed slave and kept it as low as possible with bleed nipple at the top and opened it so it slowly bled itself
Thx to everyone that suggested ideas much appreciated
Clutch all bled up and fork was correctly installed just needed bleeding as suggested

And found the best way to bleed was as stated via gravity , I just removed slave and kept it as low as possible with bleed nipple at the top and opened it so it slowly bled itself

Thx to everyone that suggested ideas much appreciated
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