mslorach

iTrader: (22)

Hey Folks,
I had the RB5 up on the ramps yesterday to get it ready for winter, unfortunately I found a serious problem, both rear strut turrets have massive rusted holes in them on the panel facing outwards, on the offside the panel is totally gone, they just crumbled away to nothing when I poked them.

I've taken the car off the road and I'm now trying to figure out the best way to get it sorted, has anyone had a similar problem? how did you fix it?
There's not much good metal to weld to so a simple plate is probably out of the question, also looking where the fuel filler pipe enters the inner arch it's pretty poor condition there too so I'm guessing I'll need to replace a lot of the outer wall of the inner arch (if that makes sense).

I've got a pic of an inner arch / turret to show where the worst bits are (the blue area) This is just a random pic, not my car obviously


Has anyone replaced that whole section before?

Where's the best place to get replacement panels? Is there anywhere that manufactures them? It's weird, getting panels for my 33 year old mk2 escort is no problem at all but trying to find scoob ones is proving to be quite difficult.

If anyone can give me any advice, tips, help I'd be very grateful.
Cheers
Martyn

scoobyster

Hi Martyn,

Did you get anywhere with this? I have the same issue and am foreseeing a nightmare. This pic you have is interesting. On mine it feels like the side you have highlighted is/was thinner than the rest, and your pic suggests it is part of the arch liner, whereas the rest of the strut tower is more robust steel.

scoobyster

Just been doing a little more reading and I suspect this fault could be found in most if not all classics in daily use. It sounds to me that it could well be the original source of the typical rear quarter/arch rust that you see on most classics now - this the holed/porous strut tower allows rusty water into the quarter panel.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ut-tower-rust/

Adma-RA

iTrader: (1)

That's true, nearly all of the classics, bugs, and blobs I've been up close and personal with have rusted through in that area. It can be repaired from underneath with the struts removed but you'll need a welder with a cranked head and a skilled person to operate it. I think it's caused by the lower inner arch joining the strut top with a lapped joint, with the inner panel being on top of the stut top panel (from inside the arch), which collects the water and sh1te nicely causing it to rust. Subaru were not too fussy with their underseal in this area either which doesn't help...

scoobyster

Thanks for the info. I'm surprised it's not been discussed more on the forums as it sounds like a significant weak point as our cars get older.

I have stopped into a good bodyshop today with some pics and they are going to show them to a mobile welder they can recommend. Hopefully he can take it on in my garage where the struts are already removed etc. Then when he's finished I can go crazy with the underseal!

Adma-RA

iTrader: (1)

I think it's not discussed much because most people wouldn't know their car is rotten there. It's only visible (touchable?) when the rear legs are out, and the MOT man can't see it so it wouldn't be flagged. P1's are particularly bad for it IME, bugs are mostly ok but the blobs are just as bad as classics.

topshot

iTrader: (4)

Bit of thread bump but Has anyone had this repaired properly and if so how much was it?

The bits highlighted on my classic were beginning to rust (although there is no holes yet) I have wire brushed it and treated/painted it but would like to have it properly cut out and welded up.

I have been to look at two bugeyes and both were going there too

nicam49

Well well well, just taken my daughter's X reg Sport Wagon (hatchback/estate really)
for an mot...and the clever mot man found the above rot on the inside of the n/s turret.
So a fail. But the car's far too nice to scrap...it passed everything else. even though it's been sitting on the drive unused for 4 years. So I'm looking for ideas. Pity this thread has petered out. Went under the car to prep freeing off a few fixings to make it easier to remove the strut, and came across this grey **** with an arrow and 'lock' on it. Any ideas what it is...also anyone had success repairing the rot?
I can understand how it got there...the front wheel arches have a plastic inner arch liner, however the rear ones don't. Unlike my '02 Mondeo which has them on both fronts and rears. Hopefully I will attach a pic of the grey ****. Thanks!
p.s. just read the link in #3 above....that's exactly what I've got, even the pic shows the same hole. Unfortunately or maybe fortunately, the mot man was on the case. Wonder if that is the reason there's not many old Scoobys on the road.

madscoob

iTrader: (3)

had mine done about 6 months ago cost Ł500 for both sides top of turret on outside rotted all done now , involes dropping whole back end and rear seats to gain access from inside as well oh and the grey thing is the camber bolt cover

nicam49

Hi Madscoob, thanks for replying, (and so soon).. did you do any of the work yourself ....like, doing the mechanics yourself and getting a mobile welder in?
Also, that grey thing...does it unscrew or what...I'm trying to free off all the bolts I can to make it easier to get the strut out when the time comes...thanks!
btw, Is your Scooby also a pre-2002 model ?

madscoob

iTrader: (3)

93 wrx the guy who done the work is a member of our club and a mechanic, i can only work on the driveway, but it is poss to do yourself in a garage, its a complete ballache though, for Ł500 i got both sides done plus tracking and 4 wheel allignment after all put back together

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Ł500? who did that? I've just been to one company for a quote for just rusty arches, ones not bad at all, and other needs a small section cutting and welding, quoted me Ł900 lol

nicam49

Wow! Ł500 both sides...what a bargain!
Just scared myself to death watching Eric O on Youtube showing how to change a rear wheel bearing...that long lateral link bolt that gets rusty as hell takes some removing...and HE had a pneumatic hammer and lots of experience. New bolt costs around Ł30, new nut around Ł6. Presumably that lot had to been removed to drop the suspension unit to get enough access to work on the strut towers.....? unless there's a work around it...anyone?

madscoob

iTrader: (3)

yes there is a cheats way ,
remove shocks complete
drop back end down complete with subframe
cut open arch inside car after removing rear seat
the hole is almosr always on the outside of the inner arch
pm me for phone number if you want

tom-r33

iTrader: (2)

if you got rusty outer arches too you can cut them away to make an 'access hole' from the outside, no need to remove struts or subframe then

topshot

iTrader: (4)

Old thread I ended up having mine done after asking in this thread a few years ago. Cost me Ł450 for drivers inner and outer arch. Passenger hasn't needed doing yet ....

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Thats not too bad.

nicam49

Hi All, well, Scoobs is now at the clinic having the the rusted bits replaced. I had to remove all the combustible innards first, and whilst at it, I discovered that the number plate lights and rear bumper bar were also shockingly corroded. So, thanks to Scoobynet, read up how to remove the rear bumper and am now working on them. Good painting weather, which is lucky. Just wanted advice on what's best to use in order to protect the insides of the strut towers once I've got it back. I've never had much luck with Waxoyl, and don't like their underseal stuff either...but that's all you get in motorist shops. Anyone got any good experiences/advice to share?...thanks!
Memo to self: better check the front bumper bar for corrosion when I get the car back.

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Did you say how much you've been quoted? I removed both my bumpers when i got my Impreza and rubbed them down, they were very rusty. I'm planning on removing my rear lights and bumper this coming week, then getting wheel arches done.

nicam49

Hi Jay, estimated Ł150, if I prepped it . He'll also take a look at the other side, which isn't bad..yet, but prevention is better than cure, they say!
taking rear lights out- bit messy with all that black mastic. ..do you need to remove them, or do you mean the number plate lights? I decided to try and rescue mine, as they cost Ł46 a pair. Couldn't believe how rusty it's all got back there...but it's 17 years old after all.

nicam49

Welding complete, MOT'd for another year. I stripped out the interior to save labour, garage welded up one side and covered both side in reassuring underseal. Cost was Ł230. I'll certainly keep an eye on those vulnerable areas from now on. Now looking to best way to treat the rear subframe area as is v.rusty. Not had much success in the past with Waxoyl on the underside of my Mondeo- the rust just merrily goes on forming underneath it. So much for 'doing what it says on the tin' .
Anyone any advice from personal experience?

Samwise

Now I feel a bit cheeky that I had both sides of mine done for Ł350 (Ł315 with a discount!)

Was a shocker when it failed its MOT due to this Rust but it's all done now, passed Mot and a great clean car again.
Year before it had 0 advisories so it really is whether the MOT tester knows what to look for.

Angus0413

Hi guys same problem here on my blob.

I already cut a bit of the lower panel.

"By chance" I discover that when the rear of the car is almost fully stripped...
The car is in France at home on a 2 post lift. Need to find a welder...

nicam49

Let's hope you've caught if in time. Good luck, let us know how you get on👍

Angus0413

cheers mate.

What do you guys think about putting on a piece of metal by silicone and rivets?

nicam49

Well, considering that to weld it you need a special angled gun to get it in there, I can't see how you'd be able to drill holes up there. I don't think it's a DIY job unless you've got arms like Inspector Gadget, but it's not the 1st time I've been proved wrong..... 🤔
I bet Ed China could do it!

lockheed

iTrader: (1)

Some modern cars are glued together but not with pop rivets and silicone. so no .
cut out the rot out to clean shiny metal and weld in new.

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

It can be repaired with a welder, i did mine, here are some pics, probably not the best perfect seamless welding but the plate is in place and the rot removed lol














Plate welded on and seam sealer applied

Angus0413

Thanks for your post The Rig,
What is the white stuff you applied?
And how is the rest of the car If I may ask?

I am quite down right now, it's been many holidays over 2years and the 3rd Christmas that I spend all my time in my home country refurbishing the car and this is the reward I get....

Left side is perforated from the boot...





I bought it in a garage.... at garage price, spent 3kŁ on new/used parts, sand blasting powder coating and I have the feeling I will never get satisfied with the condition of the car.
I think I should have bought one of those highly priced very low mileage car you can find on the market websites....

Radiator seems to be leaking, the bar underneath it is badly rotten as well, my fuel gauge does not work anymore, it's the cluster to change, my dampers are ok but rotten so they look **** and I cannot live with it.

I don't know if I am brave or stupid If I keep working and spending money on this car like I do...

You can have an Idea of my work so far here: Resto STI

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Hi,
crikey, that is alot of surface rust for the yr of car looking at your resto thread, mine is a 1995 wrx and not half as rusty, did you buy from a seaside area ?

Anyhoo, the white stuff i used was seam sealer, it fill any areas i may of missed with the welder, like a rubberised sealant then i used waxoil underseal on it

these cars do suffer with surface rust, ive owned mine 14 yrs now and it took many yrs of cleaning and swapping and repairing to get it looking good underneath ( it is a daily as well )