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Roll Cage fitting issue - Solid Fuel & Brake Lines

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Old 15 October 2012, 01:04 PM
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Sc00byurabus
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Default Roll Cage fitting issue - Solid Fuel & Brake Lines

HEEEEELLLP!! Need some advice from anyone with a rollcage fitted -

I've stripped interior ready for 6-point rollcage fitting, but where the footplates are going to sit, is right where the solid lines run down the sill (A+ B Pillar)



Can anyone give me some idea as to how I remove the fuel line/brake lines - removed dash and can see they both diasappear thru the bulkhead, but can't see any unions to undo...am I missing something???

Or do I simply need to 'cut' these out - in which case how did you guys re-attach and run these once cage fitted (not sure at the thought of rubber fuel ines inside the car??)

Any pics would be great to give some idea?!??!

Cheers
Old 15 October 2012, 04:03 PM
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MadUsa1
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I have a 6 point SD cage fitted to my Hawk Eye. Pretty sure the fitter just bent the fuel lines slightly to clear the foot plates.
Old 15 October 2012, 05:00 PM
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My hard lines were just bent out of the way during welding
Old 16 October 2012, 08:53 PM
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Sc00byurabus
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Thanks for response guys...been told however by Custom Cages that the lines need to be removed for welding though??



Last edited by Sc00byurabus; 16 October 2012 at 09:01 PM. Reason: Photo added
Old 17 October 2012, 07:03 AM
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well, i guess you *could* remove them, but it's possible to bend them out enough to weld the foot plates etc in.

Nickson Motorsport did mine (on a new age), and they had no issues with the fuel lines staying put.
Old 17 October 2012, 07:10 AM
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rooferman
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No need to remove them...as above they have enough movement on them to weld foot plates to car.
Old 17 October 2012, 07:19 AM
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Made new ones on my classic and secured them to the tunnel
Old 18 October 2012, 12:49 AM
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Arch
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Just unclip them from the plastic retainers and move them out the way to weld in the foot plates, there is plenty movement to do so
Old 18 October 2012, 01:27 AM
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scoobyman2007
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I just moved them and it was ok
Old 18 October 2012, 01:17 PM
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Sc00byurabus
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Originally Posted by Arch
Just unclip them from the plastic retainers and move them out the way to weld in the foot plates, there is plenty movement to do so
Originally Posted by scoobyman2007
I just moved them and it was ok

Thanks guys - problem is I'm not doing the work...Custom Cages are. They've advised I do need these removing as it's not safe for them to do any welding with them left in....(Health and Safety I imagine!)

Can anyone pls advise how I remove them - brake lines not so fussed as I'm binning the ABS and mounting my own brake bias, but the fuel lines are more tricky and are the ones they've asked me to remove...??
Old 18 October 2012, 07:52 PM
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cut the brake lines out and when you rebuild run a new line thro

for the fuel line i cut mine out and will run aeroquip lines thro you having the fia cage ? i dropped the fuel tank out too
Old 18 October 2012, 11:14 PM
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Arch
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If you are stripping the car the fuel lines are easy to get out as long as the heater blower is out. I would retain the hard fuel lines if you can as they are effective.
I have removed the the smaller of the three hard pipes and replaced it with a 3rd 8mm hard pipe so that I can rum to pumps with seperate feeds to a engine mounted y-piece. Cant see the point of paying for expensive teflon hoses through the car when there is a perfectly good cheap solution. I have used teflon hose in the boot and partly in the engine bay.

I have used torques AN6 tube fittings to convert the hard lines to -6 fittings instead of a push fit.

some pics on my project thread pages 10 and some on page 9 if it helps.

https://www.scoobynet.com/714409-hil...tually-10.html
Old 19 October 2012, 06:00 PM
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Hi,
I do a lot of Scrutineering for rallies. We get numerous problems with weld in cages not being welded in properly by the manufacturer. Make sure they cut holes in the floor so the cage drops down so they can weld the top of the hoops if they fail scrutineering it is a big problem. Some will cut or remove the roof to have it done properly. Once welded they are lifted up and welded into place. Make sure you tell them and clarify that if it fails scrutineering they should pick up the bill. !!!!!!!
Old 29 October 2012, 09:33 PM
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Sc00byurabus
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Originally Posted by Arch
If you are stripping the car the fuel lines are easy to get out as long as the heater blower is out. I would retain the hard fuel lines if you can as they are effective.
I have removed the the smaller of the three hard pipes and replaced it with a 3rd 8mm hard pipe so that I can rum to pumps with seperate feeds to a engine mounted y-piece. Cant see the point of paying for expensive teflon hoses through the car when there is a perfectly good cheap solution. I have used teflon hose in the boot and partly in the engine bay.

I have used torques AN6 tube fittings to convert the hard lines to -6 fittings instead of a push fit.

some pics on my project thread pages 10 and some on page 9 if it helps.

https://www.scoobynet.com/714409-hil...tually-10.html


Excellent thread...thanks for the tip!!

My 156 has suffered an attack of Alfa-itus recently so not had chance to do anymore work on the Scooby ...just got to wait for a decent weekend, what with it being pitch black when get home from work now...love these winter months..NOT!
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