jpiddin1

iTrader: (1)

Rad cracked and leaking. Order new one from Eurocarparts. Fitted it and topped up with fluid. Ran car and after a couple of miles the temp shoots up to max.

Found that the rad was not even warm! Opening the drain tap at the bottom and cold water ran out. Limped back home.

Took new rad off and checked that not blocked by blowing on the big tube...all clear.

Put old rad on and car ran fine.

Checked the little tube at the top left next to the big input tube and on the old rad it blows air through, but the new one is blocked. On the side of the new rad there are 2 hexagon heads a bit like home radiator bleed valves (circa 6mm hex). These are not on the original. Could it be that the rad is common to another application which does not utilise this little tube. The tube is connected up to the header tank on the top LHS of the engine where ther little rad cap is. Does this tube somehow bring heat to open the thermostat?

Also, with the new rad in despite the engine being hot, no heat comes out of the heater when hot is selected.

Please ehep explain whats going on....what is the little tube off the rad for?

Cheers, James.

jpiddin1

iTrader: (1)

Forgot to mention...its a UK spec turbo 2000, model year 2000.

johned

Air lock?.

type-rob

Just had this problem and I dont want to put the ***** up you pal but my head gasket(s) had gone

Worth a check

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

Air lock. Sounds like you just filled it and drove off. Needs to be bled properly

tubbytommy

iTrader: (20)

airlock, when its cold take the header tank cap of and start the engine and leave it running for 20 mins and it will burp the system.
make sure heater is on hot and fan on full too.
then top up the header tank if required

Baz82

Its definitely an air lock as the lads have said , if you search through my previous posts there is a guide to correctly bleed the system

jpiddin1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advice guys.

However....I didnt just fill and drive off. I ran the engine and kept topping up for 5-10 mins. After the first run I let it cool....topped up and tried again. Did this for a third time....kept over heating.

The first time I was stood looking into the engine bay a guy stopped and asked what was wrong. He worked at the local Subaru dealer as a mechanic! He said there was no specific method for filling....just keep trickling it in.

What is with this extra tube on the radiator that goes up to the header tank? Why is it blocked on the new radiator??? How come when I put the old radiator on that all is well (apart fro a bit of water loss). Maybe this little tube is designed to bleed the system?

I'll search the threads for bleeding the system anyway.

Cheers.

JP

madisonmonkey

iTrader: (4)

I have the same rad from europarts. The brass fittings are only used on autos I believe. I also had the same blocked pipe you describe and opened it up using a small drill bit. Has worked fine since.

It is proving to be a bit of a b1tch to bleed after fitting some new hoses though

95turbowagon

iTrader: (17)

I was getting airlocks until i used the method of filling from the hose that goes from header tank to the turbo.

Doing it this way is going backwards through the system and will expell any air locks in the system.

Filled until coolant came into the header tank and then filled the tank.

steve ex vauxhall

iTrader: (5)

This is correct

They are for the "auto" just leave blanked.

Does sound to be an airlock, however what happened to the old rad, did that give way due to pressure or just worn out?

I've seen them blow apart due to head gasket failure

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

Yep Thats way to shorter time to bleed the system. The stat wouldnt have opened in 10 mins. Took me over an hr of bleeding when i changed my rad.

jpiddin1

iTrader: (1)

The plastic sides just got old and cracked.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

First off there IS no method to bleed a Scoob coolant system.

The correct way to fill it is via a funnel stuffed own the rearmost tube, which has been taken off the metal header tank, with heater set to hot.

DO NOT allow the funnel to glug, fill slowly and watch the level in the header tank, it will eventually fill, at which point stop pouring into the funnel. You are effectively filling the engine coolant system from the BOTTOM, so there is no chance for an air lock.

NOW start engine, heater still on hot, and watch for bubbles, topping, or mopping up as necessary. Continue until fans start.

Finally close header tank cap and drive round the block. Allow to cool, remove header tank cap and refill as necessary.

Job's a good'un.