Up pipe question
#1
Up pipe question
Alright chaps I've noticed my up pipe is blowing so gonna change it the car in question is a wrx bug so is it worth fitting a Sti up pipe and where is the best place to get one from also how hard are they to change im pretty handy With the spanners and like to get involved as I can when I comes to changing bits
CheeRS guys
CheeRS guys
#2
I did see one for sale on here the other day about £20 take a look, Im unsure how easy it is to fit, but I have one to do myself aswell, I was told an Sti uppipe is worth fitting along with other upgraded parts and you may need a remap to get the most from it, just my opinion.
Good luck
Good luck
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#10
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I dont believe there is.(happy to be corrected though) I was thinking more along the lines of taking mine, getting Harvey to port and polish" them, and then fit them at the same time as replacing the up-pipe. From what Ive been told, that will help things flow better. That way your car isnt off the road while you get the headers polished...It was just a thought
#11
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Hello mate,
Header pipes and up pipe are ok to do just a bit time consuming. I've done them about 5 times now on various classics and a bug eye. I've never had to remove turbo.
Brief Guide;
Heatshields off at bottom (to gain access to bottom of up pipe bolts), lambda sensor(s) off, unbolt headers at cylinder heads and at bottom of up pipe - this will take away bottom part, unbolt down pipe to floor securing bolt and the 5 x 14mm nuts at the downpipe to turbo. Pull downpipe away and off turbo studs. Now there are another 5 x 14mm nuts holding the up pipe to the turbo, remove these and your up pipe is off.
I've usually done this job when changing to a single piece uprated manifold. If thats the case also remove the strut brace and 2 x 14mm engine mount bolts and jack engine up for more clearance.
Have also learnt from experience to renew all gaskets (£16.59, Midland exhausts, item #270833175182 on ebay) I would also just renew the 3 studs on the up pipe to save time otherwise its out with the heating torch.
Hope thats of some help, give it a go, save some money on labour.
sti/wrx headers aren't any different, I've measured them.
I've got a stainless up pipe you can have for £30 if you want too?
Cheers, Doug
Header pipes and up pipe are ok to do just a bit time consuming. I've done them about 5 times now on various classics and a bug eye. I've never had to remove turbo.
Brief Guide;
Heatshields off at bottom (to gain access to bottom of up pipe bolts), lambda sensor(s) off, unbolt headers at cylinder heads and at bottom of up pipe - this will take away bottom part, unbolt down pipe to floor securing bolt and the 5 x 14mm nuts at the downpipe to turbo. Pull downpipe away and off turbo studs. Now there are another 5 x 14mm nuts holding the up pipe to the turbo, remove these and your up pipe is off.
I've usually done this job when changing to a single piece uprated manifold. If thats the case also remove the strut brace and 2 x 14mm engine mount bolts and jack engine up for more clearance.
Have also learnt from experience to renew all gaskets (£16.59, Midland exhausts, item #270833175182 on ebay) I would also just renew the 3 studs on the up pipe to save time otherwise its out with the heating torch.
Hope thats of some help, give it a go, save some money on labour.
sti/wrx headers aren't any different, I've measured them.
I've got a stainless up pipe you can have for £30 if you want too?
Cheers, Doug
#13
Hello mate,
Header pipes and up pipe are ok to do just a bit time consuming. I've done them about 5 times now on various classics and a bug eye. I've never had to remove turbo.
Brief Guide;
Heatshields off at bottom (to gain access to bottom of up pipe bolts), lambda sensor(s) off, unbolt headers at cylinder heads and at bottom of up pipe - this will take away bottom part, unbolt down pipe to floor securing bolt and the 5 x 14mm nuts at the downpipe to turbo. Pull downpipe away and off turbo studs. Now there are another 5 x 14mm nuts holding the up pipe to the turbo, remove these and your up pipe is off.
I've usually done this job when changing to a single piece uprated manifold. If thats the case also remove the strut brace and 2 x 14mm engine mount bolts and jack engine up for more clearance.
Have also learnt from experience to renew all gaskets (£16.59, Midland exhausts, item #270833175182 on ebay) I would also just renew the 3 studs on the up pipe to save time otherwise its out with the heating torch.
Hope thats of some help, give it a go, save some money on labour.
sti/wrx headers aren't any different, I've measured them.
I've got a stainless up pipe you can have for £30 if you want too?
Cheers, Doug
Header pipes and up pipe are ok to do just a bit time consuming. I've done them about 5 times now on various classics and a bug eye. I've never had to remove turbo.
Brief Guide;
Heatshields off at bottom (to gain access to bottom of up pipe bolts), lambda sensor(s) off, unbolt headers at cylinder heads and at bottom of up pipe - this will take away bottom part, unbolt down pipe to floor securing bolt and the 5 x 14mm nuts at the downpipe to turbo. Pull downpipe away and off turbo studs. Now there are another 5 x 14mm nuts holding the up pipe to the turbo, remove these and your up pipe is off.
I've usually done this job when changing to a single piece uprated manifold. If thats the case also remove the strut brace and 2 x 14mm engine mount bolts and jack engine up for more clearance.
Have also learnt from experience to renew all gaskets (£16.59, Midland exhausts, item #270833175182 on ebay) I would also just renew the 3 studs on the up pipe to save time otherwise its out with the heating torch.
Hope thats of some help, give it a go, save some money on labour.
sti/wrx headers aren't any different, I've measured them.
I've got a stainless up pipe you can have for £30 if you want too?
Cheers, Doug
#17
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I dont believe there is.(happy to be corrected though) I was thinking more along the lines of taking mine, getting Harvey to port and polish" them, and then fit them at the same time as replacing the up-pipe. From what Ive been told, that will help things flow better. That way your car isnt off the road while you get the headers polished...It was just a thought
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