Fitting Headers.
24 November 2011, 09:41 AM
#2
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24 November 2011, 08:59 PM
#10
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wd40 all the bolts you can see tonight. are you doing the up-pipe aswell. to remove it from the bottom. undo the o/s engine mounting and jack the engine up an inc or so
24 November 2011, 09:21 PM
#12
Here is how to do an uppipe.
Swapping uppipe.
Drop the D/P.
Undo the bolts, headers to uppipe.
Loosen but do not remove three nuts on each header to cylinder head.
Now undo the nuts holding the uppipe. 5# in total if they are all there.
Remove U/P.
If it will not come loosen the two bolts, collector to the rest of headers/cross pipe and it will fly out.
Alternative : Least preferred option.
If it will not come out with lots of twisting, slack engine mountings. Do not totally undo. Jack engine and pipe drops out.
Try to get pipe out first before undoing mountings for engine.
To do the whole headers is only a little more work but you should not bolt the headers together on the floor before you try to fit them. Loosely fit the collector on both set of heads and leave the nuts loose then the uppipe from the collector to the turbo and leave loose at both ends, gaskets in place. It is then easy to fit the crosspipe in to position. Now go round each joint and torque up evenly, little bit at a time, so the whole assembly comes together with all flanges flush so that sealing with the gasket is easy.
In the workshop we allow 3 hours to remove headers and uppipe and replace. Sometimes it takes less but sometimes it can take longer if we have to get the gas equipement out to apply heat.
Approach each nut, bolt or stud carefully. Ensure your socket or ratchet spanner is well attached before you try to undo it because you only have one chance and an ill fitting socket or open ended spanner on a tight nut will round the nut which is the last thing you want.
As sensibly advised above apply plenty silicon penetrant, WD-40 or similar, the night before and on the morning you are about to attack the job. I suggest you let the engine run for five or ten minutes to get some heat in to the exhaust which makes it easier to crack the nuts in the first place but don't let it get so hot that the retained heat then becomes a problem to your working on the exhaust manifold components.
Swapping uppipe.
Drop the D/P.
Undo the bolts, headers to uppipe.
Loosen but do not remove three nuts on each header to cylinder head.
Now undo the nuts holding the uppipe. 5# in total if they are all there.
Remove U/P.
If it will not come loosen the two bolts, collector to the rest of headers/cross pipe and it will fly out.
Alternative : Least preferred option.
If it will not come out with lots of twisting, slack engine mountings. Do not totally undo. Jack engine and pipe drops out.
Try to get pipe out first before undoing mountings for engine.
To do the whole headers is only a little more work but you should not bolt the headers together on the floor before you try to fit them. Loosely fit the collector on both set of heads and leave the nuts loose then the uppipe from the collector to the turbo and leave loose at both ends, gaskets in place. It is then easy to fit the crosspipe in to position. Now go round each joint and torque up evenly, little bit at a time, so the whole assembly comes together with all flanges flush so that sealing with the gasket is easy.
In the workshop we allow 3 hours to remove headers and uppipe and replace. Sometimes it takes less but sometimes it can take longer if we have to get the gas equipement out to apply heat.
Approach each nut, bolt or stud carefully. Ensure your socket or ratchet spanner is well attached before you try to undo it because you only have one chance and an ill fitting socket or open ended spanner on a tight nut will round the nut which is the last thing you want.
As sensibly advised above apply plenty silicon penetrant, WD-40 or similar, the night before and on the morning you are about to attack the job. I suggest you let the engine run for five or ten minutes to get some heat in to the exhaust which makes it easier to crack the nuts in the first place but don't let it get so hot that the retained heat then becomes a problem to your working on the exhaust manifold components.
27 November 2011, 02:03 PM
#16
That must have been done by my Wife then 
Bloody tedious job and on the tubulars there is a solid 4 hours work or more when you do each runner separately which is how it should be done !!! The ported are not too bad as they are in 3 pieces plus the uppipe.
Bloody tedious job and on the tubulars there is a solid 4 hours work or more when you do each runner separately which is how it should be done !!! The ported are not too bad as they are in 3 pieces plus the uppipe.
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