What do I need to fix this??
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What do I need to fix this??
From this thread https://www.scoobynet.com/members-ga...ent-wrong.html
I`ve been looking to find out why the engine I bought with the car was dead, so I stripped it down fully and found this.
Is this repairable (with a regrind) or is it a second hand crank time??
Obviously I`ll need new big end bearings, along with bolts and gaskets.
I`ve been looking to find out why the engine I bought with the car was dead, so I stripped it down fully and found this.
Is this repairable (with a regrind) or is it a second hand crank time??
Obviously I`ll need new big end bearings, along with bolts and gaskets.
Last edited by Jimbob; 03 August 2011 at 10:47 PM.
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Replace the crank - if you can get a good condition 2nd hand one but really these are pretty rare (although many may appear to be vgc).
Best bet is to get a nitrided crank if at all possible.
Best bet is to get a nitrided crank if at all possible.
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TBH guys I`ve a forged engine in my car now, and was only thinking of rebuilding this as something to do lol. And as a back up if something were to go wrong, as the one in now is a semi closed deck with loads of goodies.
Can the crank be reground and polished and given over size bearings??
Does the crank have to be replaced?? Just I`ve repaired a LOT worse than that and still going, just seems a waste. My Jeep had snapped a rod, then fixed then bent another rod with hydro-lock then that was re-ground and polished and refitted with matched bearings.
Can the crank be reground and polished and given over size bearings??
Does the crank have to be replaced?? Just I`ve repaired a LOT worse than that and still going, just seems a waste. My Jeep had snapped a rod, then fixed then bent another rod with hydro-lock then that was re-ground and polished and refitted with matched bearings.
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Right from doing some reading up I gather the reason is a non return ball bearing inside the crank, so any swarf that goes into the crank journals cannot be cleaned out 100%. The later cranks having a bolt instead.
So where is the CHEAPEST place to get a new crank etc. As I just want to rebuild this as a project, rather than a all singing and dancing replacement.
So where is the CHEAPEST place to get a new crank etc. As I just want to rebuild this as a project, rather than a all singing and dancing replacement.
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Don't forget if you rebuild you will have to either replace or be certain the sump is spotlessly clean, new/replacement modine, new/replacement oil pump, head gaskets and timing belt. Also as stated a new crank with a set of new bearings for the big ends plus while you're at it you'd be daft not to do the mains too.
That little lot will quite easily set you back a grand just in parts.
Cheers Ian.
That little lot will quite easily set you back a grand just in parts.
Cheers Ian.
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Don't forget if you rebuild you will have to either replace or be certain the sump is spotlessly clean, new/replacement modine, new/replacement oil pump, head gaskets and timing belt. Also as stated a new crank with a set of new bearings for the big ends plus while you're at it you'd be daft not to do the mains too.
That little lot will quite easily set you back a grand just in parts.
Cheers Ian.
That little lot will quite easily set you back a grand just in parts.
Cheers Ian.
What I`d be looking at would be bearing set, crank, and full gasket set.
Why are these parts so expensive, when the engines get rebuilt so often??
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If you have the dosh, you can remove the 'risk' by getting a short block:-
MAPerformance SPEC EJ25 Stage 1 Shortblock Assembly (Subaru WRX/STI)
Also check Lateral's site for various short block options...
MAPerformance SPEC EJ25 Stage 1 Shortblock Assembly (Subaru WRX/STI)
Also check Lateral's site for various short block options...
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