New Scooby Owner
16 March 2011, 04:08 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
New Scooby Owner
hi i have a 1995 classic wrx in white
im a totally newbie to the land of subaru
its been on a rolling road, been looking at what boost people are looking at and mine is running at just about 11psi, is this too low?
car has mines ecu, remapped, full exhaust system
on the rr it made just shy of 300bhp, does this seam about right for the mods?
im a totally newbie to the land of subaru
its been on a rolling road, been looking at what boost people are looking at and mine is running at just about 11psi, is this too low?
car has mines ecu, remapped, full exhaust system
on the rr it made just shy of 300bhp, does this seam about right for the mods?
16 March 2011, 04:43 PM
#4
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Will put pics up when I get home, on phone at the minute, its white with black fibreglass bonnet, black wheels window tints, lowerd and 5inch exhaust, will upload pics later,
Guy who I bought it off said it was running at 1.1 bar, but on boost guage it sits just about 11 :s any ideas? Could I safely turn the psi up? Or would that require mapping etc thanks
Guy who I bought it off said it was running at 1.1 bar, but on boost guage it sits just about 11 :s any ideas? Could I safely turn the psi up? Or would that require mapping etc thanks
16 March 2011, 05:28 PM
#5
Member myblackwrx has given good (and oft repeated!) info about the Mines ECU - see the many threads here:-
https://www.scoobynet.com/search.php?searchid=4049275
https://www.scoobynet.com/search.php?searchid=4049275
Trending Topics
16 March 2011, 07:52 PM
#8
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
heres pics and the dyno graphy:
spec list is
front mounted intercooler
mines ecu
remapped full exhaust system including decat
lowerd
window tints
17inch wheels unsure on make
fiberglass bonnet
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spec list is
front mounted intercooler
mines ecu
remapped full exhaust system including decat
lowerd
window tints
17inch wheels unsure on make
fiberglass bonnet
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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16 March 2011, 08:04 PM
#9
Sacrilege! The previous owner has tinted the rear windows and applied the decals to the lower rear doors, as if to pass it off as a Type R 2-dr Coupe. That simply won't do! 
Only kidding dude
- nice clean early example you have there (and in the best colour ). 
Only kidding dude
- nice clean early example you have there (and in the best colour ).
Last edited by joz8968; 16 March 2011 at 08:07 PM.
16 March 2011, 08:07 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
unsure weather to keep the tints or not,
does the dyno graph look aright? im a totally noob to the world of Subaru,
do you think the psi should go up?
16 March 2011, 08:13 PM
#11
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Looks smart mate tbh I couldn't say all depends on supporting mods like fuel pump, injectors, air filter etc may find if these are standard 300s the limit and I'm not certain on classic bottom ends like what powers advisable before having to do upgrades.
16 March 2011, 08:16 PM
#12
Graph looks okay.
Usually, the Mines ECU is a chip that overides the Subaru one and normally runs at 1.0-1.1bar (14.5-16psi). It's a generic map, not a bespoke remap (it doesn't have that facility). What with its aggressive ign. timing + your FMIC, I'd defo get your AFRs checked at a rolling road place! You need to make sure it's not running lean!!!
I'd defo run V-Power 99 or Tesco Momentum 99, as a minimum - nothing less!
Usually, the Mines ECU is a chip that overides the Subaru one and normally runs at 1.0-1.1bar (14.5-16psi). It's a generic map, not a bespoke remap (it doesn't have that facility). What with its aggressive ign. timing + your FMIC, I'd defo get your AFRs checked at a rolling road place! You need to make sure it's not running lean!!!
I'd defo run V-Power 99 or Tesco Momentum 99, as a minimum - nothing less!
16 March 2011, 08:20 PM
#13
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Graph looks okay.
Usually, the Mines ECU is a chip that overides the Subaru one and normally runs at 1.0-1.1bar (14.5-16psi). It's a generic map, not a bespoke remap (it doesn't have that facility). What with its aggressive ign. timing + your FMIC, I'd defo get your AFRs checked at a rolling road place! You need to make sure it's not running lean!!!
I'd defo run V-Power 99 or Tesco Momentum 99, as a minimum - nothing less!
Usually, the Mines ECU is a chip that overides the Subaru one and normally runs at 1.0-1.1bar (14.5-16psi). It's a generic map, not a bespoke remap (it doesn't have that facility). What with its aggressive ign. timing + your FMIC, I'd defo get your AFRs checked at a rolling road place! You need to make sure it's not running lean!!!
I'd defo run V-Power 99 or Tesco Momentum 99, as a minimum - nothing less!
im running on v power wont put anything less in it, sorry to sound noobie, but could you not use abbreviations im not use to the subaru talk yet so i have no idea what your talking about
would like to get it rolling road again as this one was a year ago, have one for 4 months before that one was done and it was runnin at 247bhp before that but torque was dreadful
i need to invest in a turbo timer aswell
also not happy that it has an open air filter as im sure it will be sucking in alot of the hot air from the engine, so i either need to get enclosed induction or run a cold air feed to the filter, what do you think will be best? thanks
Last edited by KieranWRX; 16 March 2011 at 08:24 PM.
16 March 2011, 08:30 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
i got the FMIC part ha
okay yes il will go for one, need to find a good one round my area though as there isnt many, i have another question, it has a dump valve, but it more chatters then a simple dump valve, does this matter? as i swear someone told me it isnt good for the turbo
okay yes il will go for one, need to find a good one round my area though as there isnt many, i have another question, it has a dump valve, but it more chatters then a simple dump valve, does this matter? as i swear someone told me it isnt good for the turbo
16 March 2011, 08:33 PM
#16
FMIC = front mount intercooler
No you don't.
Waste of money. Just drive off boost for the last 1/2mile or so before parking up. It's THE BEST way to cool the turboIt'll be fine as it is. But enclosing it and/or cold air feed is good to have obviously. You have to have the cone, because the FMIC pipe dictates that the OEM airbox has to be junked (no room for it).
Last edited by joz8968; 16 March 2011 at 08:34 PM.
16 March 2011, 08:38 PM
#17
Originally Posted by KieranWRX
it has a dump valve, but it more chatters then a simple dump valve, does this matter? as i swear someone told me it isnt good for the turbo
Because you have a FMIC, you'd also have to contrive new connections (silicone hoses/jubilee clips) to get it fit between the DV port on the IC pipe and the DV recirc return on th turbo intake pipe. If all this sounds a pain, it's not a problem keeping your BOV... Does the car drive okay with it - no jerkiness changing gears and/or coming off boost onto the overrun, etc.?
Last edited by joz8968; 16 March 2011 at 08:43 PM.
16 March 2011, 10:59 PM
#18
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Sell it on and reinstate the OEM (std lol) recirculating black plastic item. The car will drive better with it back on, etc.
Because you have a FMIC, you'd also have to contrive new connections (silicone hoses/jubilee clips) to get it fit between the DV port on the IC pipe and the DV recirc return on th turbo intake pipe. If all this sounds a pain, it's not a problem keeping your BOV... Does the car drive okay with it - no jerkiness changing gears and/or coming off boost onto the overrun, etc.?
Because you have a FMIC, you'd also have to contrive new connections (silicone hoses/jubilee clips) to get it fit between the DV port on the IC pipe and the DV recirc return on th turbo intake pipe. If all this sounds a pain, it's not a problem keeping your BOV... Does the car drive okay with it - no jerkiness changing gears and/or coming off boost onto the overrun, etc.?
16 March 2011, 11:06 PM
#21
BTW, if you dont like your tinted rear light clusters and want to return the rear end to factory, I have a set of regular non-tinted OEM ones, complete with original amber indicator lenses sitting around gathering dust. They are in extremely good condition - not even any hairline cracks/fading etc....
Last edited by joz8968; 16 March 2011 at 11:08 PM.
16 March 2011, 11:08 PM
#23
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
BTW, if you dont like your aftermarket-tinted rear light clusters and want to return the rear end to factory, I have a set of OEM ones, complete with original amber indicator lenses sitting around gathering dust. They are in extremely good condition - not even any hairline cracks/fading etc....
16 March 2011, 11:11 PM
#24
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Thread Starter
16 March 2011, 11:20 PM
#25
Yes, you can buy sheets of thin black or silver metal mesh off eBay (square, diamond, honeycomb, etc. designs). Needs to be about 100cm x 25cm to overlap the space.
I had this sorted on my STi 5 by API - they did a great job in dexterously cutting out the central maw moulding with a jigsaw and forming/riveting/glueing the black honeycomb mesh into the resultant aperture. Very professional looking - looks factory.
Last edited by joz8968; 16 March 2011 at 11:31 PM.
17 March 2011, 12:11 AM
#26
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