Head gasket help
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Head gasket help
Hello all, the head gaskets have gone on my wrx, i'm handy with the spanners but have never done a scooby head gasket before, is there anything i should look out for when replacing them?
Also as the heads are gonna be off i'm gonna clean the heads, lap the valves and change the stem seals etc.
Where's the best place to get a cometic head gasket set and how thick will i need the gaskets, if for example only 5-10 thou is skimmed from the head?
Also has anyone got a data sheet of all the torque settings i'm gonna need as i've looked through the workshop manual on here and can't find them?
Thanks
Also as the heads are gonna be off i'm gonna clean the heads, lap the valves and change the stem seals etc.
Where's the best place to get a cometic head gasket set and how thick will i need the gaskets, if for example only 5-10 thou is skimmed from the head?
Also has anyone got a data sheet of all the torque settings i'm gonna need as i've looked through the workshop manual on here and can't find them?
Thanks
Last edited by gazzawrx; 22 February 2011 at 07:08 PM.
#2
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
anyone?
whats the best head gaskets to use? i've read about the cometic ones and they seem more than up to the job, but what about the cosworth gaskets, are these any better than the cometic gaskets and if so what makes them better?
whats the best head gaskets to use? i've read about the cometic ones and they seem more than up to the job, but what about the cosworth gaskets, are these any better than the cometic gaskets and if so what makes them better?
#3
Scooby Regular
Join Date: May 2004
Location: wiltshire
Posts: 657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
plenty of info on you-tube about the tightening sequence mate and the gaskets i got the tightening sequence came in with them, i done mine but didnt skim the heads didnt need to, depends what year you got for thickness of gaskets.....
Last edited by stann01; 23 February 2011 at 08:57 AM.
#4
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sunny BELFAST
Posts: 19,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thickness will depend on what is skimmed from the block and heads. you know already that you need to keep the same compression ration and buy your gasket accordingly. if you are only running standard or slightly modded power the cometic gaskets will be fine. cosworth gaskets are for big power and i suspect overkill on your part.
#5
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok thanks lads, my car is a 1994 wrx and as yet is pretty standard, i'll probably just use the cometic gaskets then if they're good enough.
I wasn't going to get the block skimmed tbh i normallyl clean up the faces with some wet and dry but i only usually get the heads done, i will obviously check block for warpage etc but cant see there being a problem with that as the engine hasn't overheated etc, i'll be getting the heads done regardless as i'm fitting MLS gaskets.
Anyone know a descent place to get the gasket set from other than ebay?
I wasn't going to get the block skimmed tbh i normallyl clean up the faces with some wet and dry but i only usually get the heads done, i will obviously check block for warpage etc but cant see there being a problem with that as the engine hasn't overheated etc, i'll be getting the heads done regardless as i'm fitting MLS gaskets.
Anyone know a descent place to get the gasket set from other than ebay?
Last edited by gazzawrx; 24 February 2011 at 07:48 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
i'm only stating this because you said you have never done a scoob head gasket before, but as i understand it, the engine has to come out to do it. not enough room to get them off without removing the engine.
#9
5 thou is 0.13mm, stock headgasket is 0.6mm, you could fit a slightly thicker headgasket to compensate for the 0.13mm removed. However there is no issue sticking to the stock headgasket thickness, you will get a slightly increased compressed ratio which is no big deal.
#10
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah i've started to pull the lump out as i thought it looked a bit tight to do with the lump in situ, i want to change the big end bearings while it's out too, so it'll be easier on my bench.
#11
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is it possible to swap the big end shells by removing the sump and accessing the big end caps or will i need to strip the block down and seperate the block halves?
Also is there anything else that's worth changing / looking out for whilst the engines out, i have already fitted a new water pump, stat and cam belt kit but i'd rather do whatever else is necessary while it's apart to save on removing the lump further down the line.
Thanks for the help so far lads.
Last edited by gazzawrx; 01 March 2011 at 07:39 AM.
#13
To swap the big end bearings you need to separate the block halves.
While engine is open, have a look at your oil pump rotor clearances (procedure listed in workshop manual) and ensure the oil pump backing plate bolts are secured with locktite, they have a tendency to come loose and cause low oil pressure.
While engine is open, have a look at your oil pump rotor clearances (procedure listed in workshop manual) and ensure the oil pump backing plate bolts are secured with locktite, they have a tendency to come loose and cause low oil pressure.
#14
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To swap the big end bearings you need to separate the block halves.
While engine is open, have a look at your oil pump rotor clearances (procedure listed in workshop manual) and ensure the oil pump backing plate bolts are secured with locktite, they have a tendency to come loose and cause low oil pressure.
While engine is open, have a look at your oil pump rotor clearances (procedure listed in workshop manual) and ensure the oil pump backing plate bolts are secured with locktite, they have a tendency to come loose and cause low oil pressure.
I'll check the oil pump aswell then as i dont want this failing and ruining all the work i'm about to do.
When putting the block halves back together am i to use some silicone or is there a specific gasket i need to buy?
Thanks lads.
Last edited by gazzawrx; 02 March 2011 at 06:07 PM.
#15
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 930
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hi to seal the block halfs use subaru threebond,silicone not advised,heard some horror storys
https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain...k-sealant.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain...k-sealant.html
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post