I have a sti classic and when i put my foot down i tend to change gears at 8,000rpm. At about 7K ish, i feel the turbo is pushed to its limits. When should i change gears, about 7K just before the turbo cant take it?

Oversly i knw it aint good for the car to hit the limiter but this is a one off.

 

Have you got a power graph for the car ?

I change much earlier in my Type R. Probabaly around 5K or so as the torque starts to drop of after this. You need to be changing so you remain somewhere near the top of the torque curve so you are more or less stright back on the power.

Anyway thats my two pence worth

 

No i dont have a graph, just brought the car. but will hoefully be getting it done

 

Well i wouldn't go mad until you know more about your set up then

 

Change after you throw a rod, works a treat

 

lol

Well he has been warned in a very nice friendly way

 

Now thats a route i dont want to take

 

Then don't change gear at 8000rpm then ! At least not unless you find if its set up for that, which i very much doubt.

Whats the car anyway ? Classic what ?

 

im always drivig carefully but as the cars just been brought a little while ago, family/friends want to go for a drive in it and oversly want me to put the foot down. No no now

Used to own a civic before this and that limiter was 9,000 rpm, high revving engines. But the scoob will defo be looked after

 

the car originally started life off as a GL but in 2008 had a sti version 6 engine conversion.

 

I change at 6000rpm the car still pulls when you change gear so why rag the ar$e of it!

 

good point

 

Agree no need. Mines back on the power well before 6K and pulls like a train

Honda engines are different ( I had a S2000). Different cam set up and are designed to do it.

Depending on your Turbo the boost drops of at higher revs as well. Its reasonably simple logic once you have a decent power graph to analyse

 

Give us some more info on your car, model & spec wise?

 

MY98 in silver, GC8 classic. version 6 spec. version 6 red top engine, gearbox, diff. sti springs. wagon black leathers

As mentioned before was originally a GL but has a STI conversion.

 

I'd not take it above 7000 unless you've got forged bits and new bottom end bearings

 

Oh ok. I'm assuming it must have a STi 6 ecu aswell then? If so i would get it mapped if it already has not been or run it with some Vpower + NF octane booster.

 

I tend to take my classic to 6500 rpm on the occasional blast, I had some good advice from API after having it rebuilt:

Anything over 7000 rpm for a classic wrx and you're just making noise, 7200 rpm for the sti.

 

So version 6 ecu is easy to remap? I've got no mods except a panel filter but it's been serviced recently. Thinking of getting a downpipe decat as it seems lime it choke on the downpipe decat. Would this make power gains too if I get decat and then remap. Also how much for remap for if it can be remapped with current ecu

 

You'll need a map if you decat. Best get the mods you want doing first and then take it for a remap

On the ECU depends on what you have. Have you lifted the passenger side carpet and taken the cover off behind (Thats where its is!) to see what it is as that infuences the price a little.

 

No but will be taking the carpet off and seeing what ecu it is running especially as it's had a conversion.

 

So version 6 is best at 7k rpm gear change then?

 

Let us know what you find then

 

Will do buddy

 

I dont know if they are easy to remap as i dont map, however they are map-able or mappable

 

Bob Rawle wouldn't take my classic rev limit above 7500rpm for fear of detonating the engine ... wise to stay below that IMHO

TX.

 

Thats boring man! Try taking it off the clock

 

 

Haha sounds like fun But I know I won't be doing that thou.

 

and of course you have had the log book changed and are insuring it correctly yes?