arrobajay

Hi Guys,

First post here, so be gentle...

I've a 93 Classic WRX, which WAS absolutely standard except for a stainless exhaust which was already fitted when I got the car, and Tein adjustable suspension.

I had a replacement engine fitted last year, and it's been running sweet as since then. A couple of months ago it developed an electrical fault, just cutting out for no apparent reason. Had it sent to my "guy" who usually sorts it all out for me. Seemed the ECU needed replacing, so he replaced it, but for an STI ecu. He said my turbo was knackered too, so he replaced that at the same time. All well and good, but I thought the STI engine was a stronger block? Anyways, it seems my suspicions may have been correct. Yeah, had a couple of hundred miles worth of fun, but it's just started to misfire, and I'm pretty sure I can hear the slightest indication of a knock on the bottom end now.

To cut a long story short, I'm pretty sure the engine is on its way out, and I'm well aware it's going to need replacing.

My question is, what's the best engine to get that is going to slot in without too much hassle. Not the fastest, but the most chance of not needing replacing every 5 minutes. Also, which is the best turbo / ecu config etc?

Thanks in advance guys. I'm not afraid of a spanner, but I'm certainly no mechanical expert, and gathered some of you guys have been tinkering with these for quite some time.

Cheers,
Jay

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Welcome and bad news on your car
ECU wise, what year STI ecu did he use? if its an original MY94 STI its not the best ecu for your car, the MY95/96 ecu is which is 20ps up on your standard one with no adverse effects.
Also it depends where you purchased your engine from? (lots of nasty places that do "recon" engines which are just washed and painted).
Engine wise, STI engines have forged pistons, all the engines have similar/same rods in classics which is the biggest weak spot, your original block would have been closed deck, people will tell you its the strongest engine, no, its the strongest block, the internals are still crappy

I would recommend a rebuild next time from a recommended place off here.
Also what fuel are you running in your car and do you have any form of device to monitor your air/fuel ratio or knock? (KS3/knocklink/lambda link for example?)

Tony

arrobajay

First off, thanks for the prompt reply :-)

The engine... Good question, he sourced it (I would've "hoped" he'd known the best place, as he used to do a lot of work on the rally scene, including working for teams such as prodrive and RED... That's not to say it was the best source though.

The engine that's in is a bog standard WRX engine, so that's why I brought up the stronger block... eg he was installing an STI turbo and ecu, onto the weaker WRX block. By the sounds of it though, wouldn't have mattered... The internals seemingly still would've given in, right?

Where abouts would you recommend sourcing an engine from? This car seems to have been a bottomless pit of cost in the past 12 months, so I'd just like to have it done, and running reliably now.

I always run high octane (optimax or ultimate etc) fuel, as I know the imports don't generally agree with standard fuel. As for monitoring, I have absolutely nil. The car is completely standard apart from the exhaust and suspension, or was prior to the ecu / turbo change. I'm guessing you would recommend the addition of a couple of guages, or something at least to monitor what's going on under the hood?

Jay

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Depending on where you are in the UK would be to where your recommended a rebuild from, I would look at a KS3 from Aztec performance (also a scoobynet authorised advertiser, website is something like www.superhids.co.uk ) but give us a rough location and we will give you a decent place to rebuild

Tony

Tidgy

this is why second hand engines are a no no in my book. however it may have been the turbo and ecu that killed it not the engine iteself.

personaly i'd get one of the reputable specialist to rebuild it properly for you and then mapped on a decent ecu.

spend a bit more to do it right once is better then paying a bit less but having to do twice, ending up costing you more.

second hand engines are just that, you wont know for definate how they have been treated no matter what your told.

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

As Tony and Tidgy have already said, your best option will be a rebuild as opposed to a 'unknown' replacement. That way you can source uprated internals and build to your spec and budget and at the same time have confidence that the engine will be strong in the future.
The other option would be to contact the likes of API or Enginetuner (other reputable companies are available) and have a word to see if they can build for you or have a new build available for transplant. At the same time you could have the vehicle remapped for optimum performance by fitting an ESL/Apexi/Simtek etc.

As your present ride is still running, you can perhaps nurse it through. That way limiting the time you are off the road to just the fitting time.

arrobajay

I'm from Chester, in the North West... I would imagine there are a few guys around here, as there seem to be plenty of Scooby's flying around here these days.

I think you're probably right with saying the turbo and ecu played a part in knackering the engine. It had run perfectly for 12 months prior to going to the garage. I guess you live and learn!

I'd be interested in getting a rebuild, maybe not straight away, but I would like to do at some point in the near future, and possibly with slightly better internals. A friend of mine put cosworth internals into his engine, but he always spent far too much on his car, so might not be my best route.

Anybody any clues?

The KS3 knock sensor does look like a good investment, however as I said, I'm no mechanical expert. Say I get one fitted, what should I be looking out for?

KAS35RSTI

iTrader: (73)

Whats your budget? It would be easier to work that way as it can end up going into £££££'s

Tidgy

to me cosworth is good, but your paying alot for the brand rather than much better parts than others.

if your not a mechanical expert then get a reputable specialist to build it for you, best way would be get in touch, api or scoobyclinic would be my choice, and discuss costs, options and targets with them and go from there. You'll have a much better idea of what your gonna be aiming for.

as far as k3 then depends what you do with the build, you'll prob have to go down the aftermarket ecu route and alot come with nock warnigns and then the syvecs comes with active nock control, but its not cheap.

KAS35RSTI

iTrader: (73)

This engine would be worth a look at https://www.scoobynet.com/private-fo...e-bargain.html low mileage & a strong short block of a newage which would be a straight bolt on with some new headstuds & gaskets. Most importantly its priced reasonably & off a genuine netter.

Just a recommendation.

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

It'll need different head gaskets to the 93 version, as the 99 on engines use a .6 mm gasket and pre 99 use 1.6 mm. If you put it together with 1.6 gaskets it'll have no compression [ 7.4:1 if I recall ] to speak of and be less powerful than an NA off boost.

But it would be a good motor to get you going ---- with the right compression calculated.

David APi

KAS35RSTI

iTrader: (73)

There you go take it from the master & APi can do a top job of putting it altogether for you.

Either way i hope you get it sorted.