ECU problem or something else??
02 January 2011, 08:19 PM
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ECU problem or something else??
Right been having issues a while now and after Dylan has put a replacement Gearbox in had a little look at the running.
Revs freely to 2500rpm where it hesitates, and pops, then carries on to 4500rpm, where it hesitates badly pops and bangs making the COF light come on.
The engine otherwise revs freely, idles lovely, and is otherwise nice.
I have changed plugs, coil packs, lambda sensor.
Dylan swapped these for his known working parts.
Boost control solenoid, MAF, MAP, Actuator.
He said it seems as if the Ecu isn`t getting a speed reading and runs like his car did when the clocks became unplugged.
I did change the clocks, before the engine went in, so I`m gonna replace them to see if that works and tells the ECU what speed the car is doing.
The only thing thats causing me pause for thought, is that the previous owner had a matrix explode inside the car, and it went everywhere. The car then was sorted and the rad went, then the h/g, and the guy doing the skimming messed up so it went bang first turn of the key. Thats when I got it, and fitted a running replacement engine, using the wiring and sensors it came with, a like for like engine (albeit fuly forged and uprated).
So I`m leaning towards a new ECU, BUT do I bother with another Z4 or similar, or just get her a Simtek and that way I can ditch MAF and get live readings of each sensor and replace whats needed??
Revs freely to 2500rpm where it hesitates, and pops, then carries on to 4500rpm, where it hesitates badly pops and bangs making the COF light come on.
The engine otherwise revs freely, idles lovely, and is otherwise nice.
I have changed plugs, coil packs, lambda sensor.
Dylan swapped these for his known working parts.
Boost control solenoid, MAF, MAP, Actuator.
He said it seems as if the Ecu isn`t getting a speed reading and runs like his car did when the clocks became unplugged.
I did change the clocks, before the engine went in, so I`m gonna replace them to see if that works and tells the ECU what speed the car is doing.
The only thing thats causing me pause for thought, is that the previous owner had a matrix explode inside the car, and it went everywhere. The car then was sorted and the rad went, then the h/g, and the guy doing the skimming messed up so it went bang first turn of the key. Thats when I got it, and fitted a running replacement engine, using the wiring and sensors it came with, a like for like engine (albeit fuly forged and uprated).
So I`m leaning towards a new ECU, BUT do I bother with another Z4 or similar, or just get her a Simtek and that way I can ditch MAF and get live readings of each sensor and replace whats needed??
03 January 2011, 12:55 AM
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Have changed Clocks and made no difference.
It seems to not want to boost, runs lovely but as soon as you get to 4k she hesitates and wont go further.
Right codes are in order of appearance.
44 - Turbo Pressure Control.
21 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor.
24 - Idle Control Malfunction.
32 - A/F Sensor #1 System.
33 - A/F Sensor #2 System.
03 January 2011, 01:20 AM
#7
Yeah but I need to make sure everything works before going and spending yet more money. As could be more money only to find more problems, so more expence. BUT I`m assuming you can diagnose on a Simtek much easier and get sensor readouts, which you can`t on the older ECU`s?? Or am I barking up the totally wrong tree??
Have changed Clocks and made no difference.
It seems to not want to boost, runs lovely but as soon as you get to 4k she hesitates and wont go further.
Right codes are in order of appearance.
44 - Turbo Pressure Control.
21 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor.
24 - Idle Control Malfunction.
32 - A/F Sensor #1 System.
33 - A/F Sensor #2 System.
Have changed Clocks and made no difference.
It seems to not want to boost, runs lovely but as soon as you get to 4k she hesitates and wont go further.
Right codes are in order of appearance.
44 - Turbo Pressure Control.
21 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor.
24 - Idle Control Malfunction.
32 - A/F Sensor #1 System.
33 - A/F Sensor #2 System.
44 Wastegate control solenoid valve
32 Oxygen sensor
33 Vehicle speed sensor 2
Some thing not right there. Did you reset the ECU or just do a read??
You have re-connected 'all' the plugs in the back of the clocks?
Where both the looms 'identical'??
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03 January 2011, 01:24 AM
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Also now it revs nicely to 4k if your not heavy on the throttle, also if going down hill she will tentatively rev further than 5k, but as soon as power comes in she hesitates. With CAF sensor light flashing.
Was a plain read as I`d reset it before I went out.
ONLY thing to do with the clocks the speedo cable popped out so speedo was on 0 (explains the code 33??)
What is 44 Wastegate control solenoid valve??
Also Lambda is a new one, what would cause that??
Looms Identical.
I`m planning on swapping the one on there for the one that came off complete with all sensors to try and narrow it down.
Last edited by Jimbob; 03 January 2011 at 01:30 AM.
03 January 2011, 10:34 AM
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code 44 will happen if you overboost or go to limp mode (see above)
code 32 is the lambda sensor, which is either in the exhaust manifold or the top of the downpipe. You should defiantly sort this out but i wouldn't of thought its causing your problem
Last edited by P1Drifter; 03 January 2011 at 10:39 AM.
03 January 2011, 02:43 PM
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is it a uk car ? and is the heads on the new engine uk? as heads from sti have different cam's to a uk so if running sti heads on a uk ecu could this cause a slight problem ? but i could be wrong lol
03 January 2011, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by P1Drifter
speedo cable NEEDS to be in and working
code 44 will happen if you overboost or go to limp mode (see above)
code 32 is the lambda sensor, which is either in the exhaust manifold or the top of the downpipe. You should defiantly sort this out but i wouldn't of thought its causing your problem
code 44 will happen if you overboost or go to limp mode (see above)
code 32 is the lambda sensor, which is either in the exhaust manifold or the top of the downpipe. You should defiantly sort this out but i wouldn't of thought its causing your problem
I will sort that. Also noticed that the boost controller has the pipes on wrong, in that the uppermost pipe goes to the waste gate, and the middle pipe goes to the turbo, lower one goes to the resonator box which I thing is correct.
Assuming this pic is correct.
NOT a UK car its a Jap import.
Last edited by Jimbob; 03 January 2011 at 04:56 PM.
03 January 2011, 05:15 PM
#14
Lambda sensor was put into the downpipe, will move it back to the up pipe, and its a new sensor, identical to the one that came out, so dunno whats going on there apart from a different location. Unless it was detecting a fault cos its running rich due to the CTS misreading??
Yeah, the diagram is 100% correct.
Sounds like your making progress now.
03 January 2011, 10:00 PM
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Right double checked the Boost control Solenoid and the pipes were on correct.
Did a reset and a drive and the only code was 12?????
Am thinking the cutting at 4k is the actuator needing winding out. The boost gauge isn`t plumbed in at the moment as the T piece broke, and last time that was on it was reading around 15psi boost which is too high for the standard setup iirc. So will wind that out and plumb the boost gauge back in and see what is what.
But what about code 12?? Thats "12 Starter Signal" wtf do I do about that??
Did a reset and a drive and the only code was 12?????
Am thinking the cutting at 4k is the actuator needing winding out. The boost gauge isn`t plumbed in at the moment as the T piece broke, and last time that was on it was reading around 15psi boost which is too high for the standard setup iirc. So will wind that out and plumb the boost gauge back in and see what is what.
But what about code 12?? Thats "12 Starter Signal" wtf do I do about that??
03 January 2011, 10:18 PM
#18
Am thinking the cutting at 4k is the actuator needing winding out. The boost gauge isn`t plumbed in at the moment as the T piece broke, and last time that was on it was reading around 15psi boost which is too high for the standard setup iirc. So will wind that out and plumb the boost gauge back in and see what is what.
I find a jump lead very useful for testing, from the battery (-)neg to the block. Have heard good things about earthing kits too.
03 January 2011, 10:30 PM
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Good good
Sounds like a good plan to me. Boost gauge is a major must imo.
I'd go for an earthing problem on that one Jimbob. Check/clean all the ones you can see/find.
I find a jump lead very useful for testing, from the battery (-)neg to the block. Have heard good things about earthing kits too.
Sounds like a good plan to me. Boost gauge is a major must imo.
I'd go for an earthing problem on that one Jimbob. Check/clean all the ones you can see/find.
I find a jump lead very useful for testing, from the battery (-)neg to the block. Have heard good things about earthing kits too.
As I`ll attack them tomorrow with a wire brush and a can of WD40.
The only real point I can think of to cause me issue is where the spring for the clutch release spring goes, as when I came to fit the engine the darn thing had snapped in the block, and without wanting to ruin it (or remove the engine again) I left it as it was, and did a temp job on the spring (which works).
Other question is.
What does piston slap sound like, and does an uprated oil pump make a cammy noise?? As mine sounds very cammy, doesn`t sound like bottom end at all, but concerning as no one knows what it is lol. When engine is running at over idle the noise isn`t there, but as soon as she settles on idle its there, and no matter how warm she gets its always the same.
03 January 2011, 11:29 PM
#20
The only real point I can think of to cause me issue is where the spring for the clutch release spring goes, as when I came to fit the engine the darn thing had snapped in the block, and without wanting to ruin it (or remove the engine again) I left it as it was, and did a temp job on the spring (which works).
Other question is.
What does piston slap sound like, and does an uprated oil pump make a cammy noise?? As mine sounds very cammy, doesn`t sound like bottom end at all, but concerning as no one knows what it is lol. When engine is running at over idle the noise isn`t there, but as soon as she settles on idle its there, and no matter how warm she gets its always the same.
What does piston slap sound like, and does an uprated oil pump make a cammy noise?? As mine sounds very cammy, doesn`t sound like bottom end at all, but concerning as no one knows what it is lol. When engine is running at over idle the noise isn`t there, but as soon as she settles on idle its there, and no matter how warm she gets its always the same.
I have a little little tappy noise on tick over which i have had since day one and has never changed. Although neither are what i would describe as 'cammy'.
I kicked the Subaru paranoia out years ago, otherwise i would of ended up stripping it in the first 6 months of ownership.
03 January 2011, 11:36 PM
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You will of seen them when fitting the engine and loom. Turret top, engine to chassis/body. Like i said, put a big fat one from the battery to the lump
I don't know on that one Jimbob. I have a feeling i will be going there in the summer. After i have acquired an ESL.
I get a little slap on cold cold start as the majority of Subaru owners seem to.
I have a little little tappy noise on tick over which i have had since day one and has never changed. Although neither are what i would describe as 'cammy'.
I kicked the Subaru paranoia out years ago, otherwise i would of ended up stripping it in the first 6 months of ownership.
I don't know on that one Jimbob. I have a feeling i will be going there in the summer. After i have acquired an ESL.
I get a little slap on cold cold start as the majority of Subaru owners seem to.
I have a little little tappy noise on tick over which i have had since day one and has never changed. Although neither are what i would describe as 'cammy'.
I kicked the Subaru paranoia out years ago, otherwise i would of ended up stripping it in the first 6 months of ownership.
Will deffo run a thick earth from Battery to lump as I`ve some cabling here to to the Job, will have to sort it out then accept the sound is normal, until I get told otherwise lol. I`m not that worried as when revving its not there, and not there under load, only really audible at idle, so sod it lol.
05 January 2011, 12:44 AM
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Right slight update.
Took her for a spin to put fuel in and to go to dentist, home Via Halfords.
Engine revs sweet as a nut up to 4k, and if I accelerate too fast it cuts earlier. I`m 100% sure its over boost.
Went to Halfords and got new vacuum hosing and plastic hose connectors.
Didn`t have a scissors or knife so had to connect boost gauge to MAP vac line, and that was a mistake as at idle shes -10psi, and generally runs at -5psi.
BUT was boosting to 10-12psi, so assuming that the MAP loses 5psi to atmosphere shes boosting to 15-1 PSI WAAAAAAAAY too much.
Borroed from a b13bat post elsewhere.
Z4 ECU 1995/1996 WRX – 12.7PSI (0.9BAR),
DROPPING TO 11.7PSI (0.8BAR) @ 6600RPM
- FUEL CUT 15.65PSI (1.08BAR) - 260PS (256 BHP) – 7250RPM
Will swap the vac hose to the Boost Gauge, to the D/V vac hose.
And renew the hose to the MAP sensor (incase of leak).
Then I`ll wind out actuator rod 2 turns at a time until shes boosting fine and then once thats ok wind her back in till she gets to 13/14psi ish.
Thats for tomorrow with luck.
Thanks for all help so far.
Took her for a spin to put fuel in and to go to dentist, home Via Halfords.
Engine revs sweet as a nut up to 4k, and if I accelerate too fast it cuts earlier. I`m 100% sure its over boost.
Went to Halfords and got new vacuum hosing and plastic hose connectors.
Didn`t have a scissors or knife so had to connect boost gauge to MAP vac line, and that was a mistake as at idle shes -10psi, and generally runs at -5psi.
BUT was boosting to 10-12psi, so assuming that the MAP loses 5psi to atmosphere shes boosting to 15-1 PSI WAAAAAAAAY too much.
Borroed from a b13bat post elsewhere.
Z4 ECU 1995/1996 WRX – 12.7PSI (0.9BAR),
DROPPING TO 11.7PSI (0.8BAR) @ 6600RPM
- FUEL CUT 15.65PSI (1.08BAR) - 260PS (256 BHP) – 7250RPM
Will swap the vac hose to the Boost Gauge, to the D/V vac hose.
And renew the hose to the MAP sensor (incase of leak).
Then I`ll wind out actuator rod 2 turns at a time until shes boosting fine and then once thats ok wind her back in till she gets to 13/14psi ish.
Thats for tomorrow with luck.
Thanks for all help so far.
07 January 2011, 08:27 PM
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Right had another look and decided to have a look at the boost control solenoid.
What does the restrictor look like??
As I only have an adapter on mine that reduces the diameter of the pipe to exactly the same internal diameter as the port.
Not saying this is THE cause, but can`t help.
There is NOTHING else in there pipes.
When I bought the car it had a manual boost controller, and only had blue silicone hose fitted to it with the standard boost controller plugged in but no pipes.
What does the restrictor look like??
As I only have an adapter on mine that reduces the diameter of the pipe to exactly the same internal diameter as the port.
Not saying this is THE cause, but can`t help.
There is NOTHING else in there pipes.
When I bought the car it had a manual boost controller, and only had blue silicone hose fitted to it with the standard boost controller plugged in but no pipes.
