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Fitting a battery isolator?

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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 05:11 PM
  #1  
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Default Fitting a battery isolator?

Hi all,

Have tried searching, but still haven't quite found the answer.

I want to install a battery isolator switch into my 2001 bug eye. I have a red key type (although not sure if it's FiA approved or not, so will probably replace it), as can't afford one of the posh ones.

Can someone confirm if this should be breaking the + or - side of the battery?

My plan is to fit the isolator switch into the dash, running whatever batter side through it and on to its final destination in the engine bay.

I will run a pull handle from the scuttle, into the dash, and terminate it on the key, so it can be operated externally, as well as internally (I guess i'll fashion some kind of bracket by the switch to hold the cable to allow it to work). If this sounds right, does anyone have any pictures of this kind of set up in their cars?

I've read some bits about isolating the altenator as well? Can anyone shed any light on this?

I'm slowly prepping the car for track / race use, so it obviously needs to work and kill a running engine.

Thanks all
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 09:19 PM
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The isolator should be fitted in the positive cable as close to the battery as possible. You should fit a 10 amp fuse in parrallel with the isolator so that your radio memory and alarm are still powered.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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What about the alternator?
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 08:13 AM
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It depends on whether you want it to be an isolator or whether it needs to kill the engine when it is running.

If it is to kill the engine while running, then you will need to adapt the wiring from the alternator, starter, and a few other bits.

If just to isolate then interrupt the + on the battery and it will do what you need.
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