How do you safely tune a classic sti?
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How do you safely tune a classic sti?
Hi all,
I have a GC8 impreza sti version 1. I bought it 3 months ago and its on about 60000 miles and after a few initial niggles its runnin well. Its due to go in for full service in 2 weeks but after that i'd like to get SAFELY to roughly 350bhp. I have an ITG competition panel filter, a turbosmart dumpvalve, a de-cat pipe and a rage exhaust system already but other than that its standard.
I was thinking of fitting a front mount intercooler (i saw a jap speed one for £300 but dont know if its any good), an airfilter and heat shield (can any1 recommend one) and then sendin it for a re-map ( again can any1 recommend one thats in the east midlands area preferrably). If any1 knows of any information or tuning guides that are available online then i would be very grateful!
I have a GC8 impreza sti version 1. I bought it 3 months ago and its on about 60000 miles and after a few initial niggles its runnin well. Its due to go in for full service in 2 weeks but after that i'd like to get SAFELY to roughly 350bhp. I have an ITG competition panel filter, a turbosmart dumpvalve, a de-cat pipe and a rage exhaust system already but other than that its standard.
I was thinking of fitting a front mount intercooler (i saw a jap speed one for £300 but dont know if its any good), an airfilter and heat shield (can any1 recommend one) and then sendin it for a re-map ( again can any1 recommend one thats in the east midlands area preferrably). If any1 knows of any information or tuning guides that are available online then i would be very grateful!
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Best thing to do in my honest opinion is Purchase all of your mods, fit them in one hit and then remap the car.
This will save you money as you will only need to map the car once
FMIC won't need mapping for, nearly everything else will.
This will save you money as you will only need to map the car once
FMIC won't need mapping for, nearly everything else will.
#3
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I would also change the air flow meter to a Z32 & replace the 2 port boost solenoid with a 3 port. For 350 you will have to change your injectors to 550cc or you may get away using 440cc & a FPR? You can use an aftermarket ecu such as Apexi or Simtec, or the cheaper option is to chip the ecu. The best person for mapping, which i would recommend is Simon @ Jollygreenmonster.
#4
Hi all,
I have a GC8 impreza sti version 1. I bought it 3 months ago and its on about 60000 miles and after a few initial niggles its runnin well. Its due to go in for full service in 2 weeks but after that i'd like to get SAFELY to roughly 350bhp. I have an ITG competition panel filter, a turbosmart dumpvalve, a de-cat pipe and a rage exhaust system already but other than that its standard.
I have a GC8 impreza sti version 1. I bought it 3 months ago and its on about 60000 miles and after a few initial niggles its runnin well. Its due to go in for full service in 2 weeks but after that i'd like to get SAFELY to roughly 350bhp. I have an ITG competition panel filter, a turbosmart dumpvalve, a de-cat pipe and a rage exhaust system already but other than that its standard.
The Turbosmart dumpvalve probably won't be doing your car any favours either, and it'd likely run better with the standard one, although there isn't the same need to do something about it as the air filter presents.
The front mount intercooler you've looked at may or may not be any good, but if 350bhp is your goal, you will need to make other quite significant supporting modifications to achieve this sort of power reliably.
Also, again, worth clicking Search or having a look at the projects forum as others with cars very similar to yours will have been down this road before. Having a good read is the best way to learn from that collective experience.
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The intercooler I saw was a japspeed one. Has any1 had any dealings with intercoolers from this brand? Also Im struggling to find any problem with the ITG filter can you please be a lttle more specific.
I have been warned about problems with over boosting and the engine running lean because it is de-cat. Can anyone tell me if this is true?
Aladdin could u please explain why the 3 port boost solenoid is better as I dont really understand what the boost solenoid actually does!!
Thanks guys!
I have been warned about problems with over boosting and the engine running lean because it is de-cat. Can anyone tell me if this is true?
Aladdin could u please explain why the 3 port boost solenoid is better as I dont really understand what the boost solenoid actually does!!
Thanks guys!
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i have a version 1 sti wagon, currently running 310bhp on full afterburner decat exhaust, large roger clark k+n filter and trumpet, forge dump valve, walbro fuel pump, hybrid front mount intercooler and simtec engine management, im still on td05 16g turbo and 380 injectors at the moment. the benefit of the simtec is you get rid of the maf altogether, big savings there as they are 280 quid a piece and classed as a service item now by most tuners. dual maps are also a big advantage as you can have it set up for normal v power driving or if you get caught short and have to use crap fuel then a low octane map or you can go the other way and have a meth mix on seperate map.
if you have any sense whatsoever, you will not run any of the above mods without getting your car mapped, you may well get away with it, but you equally may well not, its your choice, but if ya gonna do a job, ya may as well do it properly.!!!!
if you have any sense whatsoever, you will not run any of the above mods without getting your car mapped, you may well get away with it, but you equally may well not, its your choice, but if ya gonna do a job, ya may as well do it properly.!!!!
#10
The AFM is responsible for measuring the amount of air entering the engine, and the consequences of having one coated in cr*p (and therefore measuring inaccurately) can be unfortunate and expensive.
Aladdin could u please explain why the 3 port boost solenoid is better as I dont really understand what the boost solenoid actually does!!
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Thanks very much guys thats given me a good place to start. I think Im gonna get an initial map and then get the mods and map it all in one go in a couple of months. I think ill go for the 550cc injectors, a better dumpvalve, a simtec ecu, change the airflow meter. Ill also get an apexi induction kit and an FMIC. I think I'll leave the turbo till it pops and then get an uprated one.
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Thanks very much guys thats given me a good place to start. I think Im gonna get an initial map and then get the mods and map it all in one go in a couple of months. I think ill go for the 550cc injectors, a better dumpvalve, a simtec ecu, change the airflow meter. Ill also get an apexi induction kit and an FMIC. I think I'll leave the turbo till it pops and then get an uprated one.
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Tbh 330 is a better target with your TD05, 440 injectors which are much cheaper and you will need a remap/ECU with a FMIC as the airbox will need replacing with a quality Induction kit. Ignore the 'it wont need a remap brigade' AFR is the most important consideration add a decat to the mix and you have a recipe for going pop without ECU changes ! My spec is similar to your target if you need a shopping list
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Thanks very much guys thats given me a good place to start. I think Im gonna get an initial map and then get the mods and map it all in one go in a couple of months. I think ill go for the 550cc injectors, a better dumpvalve, a simtec ecu, change the airflow meter. Ill also get an apexi induction kit and an FMIC. I think I'll leave the turbo till it pops and then get an uprated one.
You cannot re-map your standard ECU unless you go for a ESL Daughterboard which is 2/3rds the cost of the SimTek so IMHO a waste of time, might as well go straight for the SimTek
I'll keep my eye out for ya round town
Last edited by Glowplug; 10 August 2010 at 05:19 PM.
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ESL does have the standard factory safety features and idle which the Simtek doesnt have (at the moment) so I dont think it is quite as clear cut as you state. ESL can be mafless too and quite happily handle the power you are after.
Well worth changing and upgrading plugs and replacing all 4 coilpacks as a precaution too as these are the number 1 issue I have with mapping classics whenever you start to increase boost a bit.
Well worth changing and upgrading plugs and replacing all 4 coilpacks as a precaution too as these are the number 1 issue I have with mapping classics whenever you start to increase boost a bit.
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ESL does have the standard factory safety features and idle which the Simtek doesnt have (at the moment) so I dont think it is quite as clear cut as you state. ESL can be mafless too and quite happily handle the power you are after.
Well worth changing and upgrading plugs and replacing all 4 coilpacks as a precaution too as these are the number 1 issue I have with mapping classics whenever you start to increase boost a bit.
Well worth changing and upgrading plugs and replacing all 4 coilpacks as a precaution too as these are the number 1 issue I have with mapping classics whenever you start to increase boost a bit.
duncans right about the esl as well, as this is an option i looked at initialy as a cheaper alternative to the simtek, the only reason i didnt go for it was already had my heart set on simtek after all the good stuff id heard about it and i came into a little cash which made the choice a little easier at the time, although the missus wasnt to chuffed!!!! lol
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Tbh 330 is a better target with your TD05, 440 injectors which are much cheaper and you will need a remap/ECU with a FMIC as the airbox will need replacing with a quality Induction kit. Ignore the 'it wont need a remap brigade' AFR is the most important consideration add a decat to the mix and you have a recipe for going pop without ECU changes ! My spec is similar to your target if you need a shopping list
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You wont need to 'assume' if it is over-boosting, you will 'know' its over-boosting because you will be hitting fuel/boost cut (a violent jolt as the ECU cuts the fuel) every time you give it the beans. Have you got a boost gauge fitted, whats it boosting too?
An initial map What do you mean by that??
You cannot re-map your standard ECU unless you go for a ESL Daughterboard which is 2/3rds the cost of the SimTek so IMHO a waste of time, might as well go straight for the SimTek
I'll keep my eye out for ya round town
An initial map What do you mean by that??
You cannot re-map your standard ECU unless you go for a ESL Daughterboard which is 2/3rds the cost of the SimTek so IMHO a waste of time, might as well go straight for the SimTek
I'll keep my eye out for ya round town
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Tbh 330 is a better target with your TD05, 440 injectors which are much cheaper and you will need a remap/ECU with a FMIC as the airbox will need replacing with a quality Induction kit. Ignore the 'it wont need a remap brigade' AFR is the most important consideration add a decat to the mix and you have a recipe for going pop without ECU changes ! My spec is similar to your target if you need a shopping list
Dont suppose ye could send me a copy of yer shopping list too mate, im intrigued as im heading down this rout the now also.
Cheers.