Problems
I have just put a new engine in a 1998 wrx, although i havent much experience on this newer inlet manifold and bits and bobs i found it not to bad. Got every thing plumed in and wired up and it started lovely and sounds great. The problem im having though its only boosting to 0.4 bar.. The car has a VF22 turbo and standard 3 port boost controller, i think that ive piped this up right but i will show you how ive done it

A is connected to the turbo
B is connected to the waste gate
C is connected to the inlet pipe
Im assuming this is correct
The car revs and picks up great until i reach 3500\4000 rmp then its like a boost cut or fuel cut but then will rev more but no power (no more than 0.4 bar)... So i was thinking new engine ect.. reset the ecu, so i did. checked the error codes which came back ok so thought no problems... Tried again yet the same thing happens. The car starts revs and sounds great and this is the only issue remaining and help would be great as i dont know what to try next. One other thing i dont know how the car ran before as i bought it as a non runner so this does not help

A is connected to the turbo
B is connected to the waste gate
C is connected to the inlet pipe
Im assuming this is correct
The car revs and picks up great until i reach 3500\4000 rmp then its like a boost cut or fuel cut but then will rev more but no power (no more than 0.4 bar)... So i was thinking new engine ect.. reset the ecu, so i did. checked the error codes which came back ok so thought no problems... Tried again yet the same thing happens. The car starts revs and sounds great and this is the only issue remaining and help would be great as i dont know what to try next. One other thing i dont know how the car ran before as i bought it as a non runner so this does not help
Couple of points. You say you've put a new engine into a "'98 WRX". Is this an import, or a UK car, and is whatever ECU you're running appropriate for whatever you now have under the bonnet?
Also, as you're now running a three port solenoid, is the ECU designed/mapped to run it?
Also, as you're now running a three port solenoid, is the ECU designed/mapped to run it?
the car is a import all ive done is bolt a cdb to all the orginal stuff that came with the car. The boost solenoid is the one which came with the car as well as the VF22 turbo the ecu so i was told by the previous owner was mapped by scoobyclinic. I contacted them and they wasnt very helpful at all.
what a **** i am... After reading loads of posts regarding boost problems i noticed the knock sensor kept popping up. Then it dawned on me the cdb was off my 1995 import the knock sensor connector didnt fit the wiring loom so i made it fit. This may explane the lack of power, i wasnt aware that that the knock sensors were different. Going to try a knock sensor that should be off that year of car and hope it cures my problem.
the car is a import all ive done is bolt a cdb to all the orginal stuff that came with the car. The boost solenoid is the one which came with the car as well as the VF22 turbo the ecu so i was told by the previous owner was mapped by scoobyclinic. I contacted them and they wasnt very helpful at all.
I remember speaking to you myself and you asked if we keep records of the cars we map, unfortunately we don't I'm sorry if that came across as unhelpful.
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Chasey - it is unlikely (albeit not impossible) that you will find a solution to this problem with the knock sensor. Although the connector designs may differ between the phase 1 and phase 2 cars, the function of the sensor itself is very similar.
Without knowing how you "made the connector fit" it's impossible to guess whether you might have shorted something out, but on the face of it it's difficult to imagine anything you could have done wrong in this area causing the symptoms you say the car is suffering. Aside from anything else, if you disconnect the knock sensor completely, you should have full power - albeit that the ECU will be unable to respond to any problems the sensor might otherwise be picking up.
It's unclear from your post whether the ECU you are using now is matched to the engine, or whether it was mapped for the engine you've just taken out. If the latter, it still very much sounds as though you are using an ECU that is fundamentally the wrong choice for what you now have under the bonnet.
In the circumstances the best thing you can do is probably have someone who knows take a look at your car. With the best will in the world we're trying to grab a needle out of a haystack, given the wide range of potential causal issues and on the basis of current info.
Without knowing how you "made the connector fit" it's impossible to guess whether you might have shorted something out, but on the face of it it's difficult to imagine anything you could have done wrong in this area causing the symptoms you say the car is suffering. Aside from anything else, if you disconnect the knock sensor completely, you should have full power - albeit that the ECU will be unable to respond to any problems the sensor might otherwise be picking up.
It's unclear from your post whether the ECU you are using now is matched to the engine, or whether it was mapped for the engine you've just taken out. If the latter, it still very much sounds as though you are using an ECU that is fundamentally the wrong choice for what you now have under the bonnet.
In the circumstances the best thing you can do is probably have someone who knows take a look at your car. With the best will in the world we're trying to grab a needle out of a haystack, given the wide range of potential causal issues and on the basis of current info.
i understand what your saying however all ive done is replace a knocking bottom end with a cdb all the inletmanifold and ecu are the same as well as the turbo and inter cooler. ive changed the knock sensor to the orginal and even tried disconnecting it and still no more than 0.4 bar. even disconnecting the accuator pipe and blocking it off doesnt help so i will just have to take it to someone who knows what they are doing
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