OK today i have been fitting my oil cooler. its sitting at front of car and the oil filter has been relocated to the old battery position. i filled the oil cooler as much as i could plus some of the lines. was impossible to get them completely ful;l but i tried. i filled the oil filter as well.

i removed the crank sensor and turned the car over several times. for about 3 seconds or less at a time just to push the oil around. checked the level and it went down a bit so i topped ity back up. suspecting this would happen anyway. then i went to start the car. and when i did the oil light stayed on so i quickly turned off again after about 3 seconds.

checked oil and the level was low so i topped back up and then dry cranked it again. severtal times same as before. oil level didnt move. so i tried to start the car again and still the oil light is on. level is fine so i know i have no pressure.

my defi gauge is also reading no pressure as well so its no coincidence it just means i have no pressure.

anyone have any ideas on what to check, i know all the lines are full as they are cold and i have cracked the connector just to make sure oil is there

 

needs to be dry crnked way more than a couple of seconds to get he oil flow round

 

ok well i have done it qite a bit. you recon doing that for a long time then?

 

You should read this: https://www.scoobynet.com/showpost.p...&postcount=227

If you can't find anything actually wrong with your setup there's some food for thought above.

Is your oil cooler thermostatically isolated in any way? If not that would be something to consider. Main question though is whether the oil temps seen via your gauges are indicative of a positive need for a cooler (i.e. regularly exceeding 120-130 or so)? If not, while you might not want to do it, the best thing you could probably do with your cooler is to get rid.

The other options would be an ECU remap or some sort of manual fuel pump disable switch to delay engine startup until you have some pressure accumulated.

 

splitpin there is a reason why i always like your advise and this is why.

now my oil temps usually go over 100 on a hard drive and i was fitting one because i purchased it for a good price.

now i think what you have posted answers my problem. i think it is something to do with my oil filter being where it is.

 

If by "over 100" you mean only just over 100 (i.e. you never see it over 110), there's no need, and importantly no advantage, in changing from the stock setup. Under those circumstances your car is clearly better off without the added complexity - there is no point in modifications like this simply for the sake of having them. It may have been economically priced, but a bargain your car doesn't need is still ultimately something you're better off not having.

It may be, so have a look and see what you can do. The shorter you can make the added oil lines the better. The bottom line is that you have just significantly increased the volume of the oil system between the pump and the critical parts of the engine. That extra volume needs to be filled before the bearings (or your gauge) will actually see a pressure rise so the smaller the increase the better.

If you don't actually need cooler oil, this mod may inadvertently end up causing significantly increased levels of startup wear, so think carefully about what you're trying to achieve here.

 

i have listened to your advise and i appreciate it. this kit is coming off tomorrow. i liked it better when my car worked and didnt light up like a christmas tree.

thanks mate

 

No sweat, I suspect that'll be the correct decision - Harvey deserves some props for his original post too.

If there's a silver lining it will hopefully be that the good price you got it for will mean you shouldn't end up too far down on the whole deal.

 

i can sell it on to make my money back i should imagine. and yeah that post by harvey is a great read

 

3 seconds is not enough

It needs a few goes of 20 seconds plus to fill and prime the system with the crank sensor unplugged.

Why did you need to relocate the oil filter? A sandwich takeoff plate for the oil cooler (with inbuilt thermostat) is ideal and easily located.

 

Mine is a sandwich stat'd take off, it's remote filters that spoil the kit IMHO.

I fill my cooler before starting too !

dunx

 

i already had a sandwhich plate there and thought my oil filter would of got too low with another one

 

Remove the modine ?

 

didnt think of that. cheers mate

 

should be able to leave the modine and fit the sandwich plate and the filter no issues