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Old 04 March 2010, 07:42 PM
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CBROWN_SUGA
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Question WRX JDM help!

After a long run when stopping at junctions etc revs stick at 2k for 5 seconds or so then go's back to normal idle. Also does the same when rolling out of gear, or starting on warm engine, but settles back to normal idle. Starts on the button, performs well with no hesitations. Just had full service inc magnecor leads, pf7rbs, fuel filter, coolant change, cosworth panel filter. any ideas what could be causing it?? getting very frustrating when in traffic.

Also any idea what fuel consumption I should be getting? On a full tank of V-power with sensible driving Im returning about 230ish miles, not expecting great mpg, but considering im being reserved with the right foot would of thought I would get a little extra back.. haven't had it long so apologies for my lack of knowledge!

Cheers!
Old 04 March 2010, 08:01 PM
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joz8968
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- You should get circa 250 from a full 50 litres (JDM Classic's capacity) - about 5 miles per litre - on mixed driving (mostly sensible). But, of course, you never fully drain the tank between fill ups, so 230 miles per tank is bang on!

- Did you get these rough running symptoms after the service, or were they there before?

Last edited by joz8968; 04 March 2010 at 08:04 PM.
Old 04 March 2010, 08:21 PM
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b4nk51e
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Worked my fuel consumption out a couple of weeks ago to be 20.2mpg I get around 335km to a tank but don't let it drop much past a 1/4 of a tank.

Just by chance your throttle isn't sticking slightly when you lift off is it used to happen to a car I had a few years ago.
Old 04 March 2010, 08:49 PM
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f4la k
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Take the idle control valve of and clean it. Just take the 2 small screws of at first and try cleaning the top bit. It is magnetised so when you pull it of it will probably have metal debris on it. Just give ita good clean and try that. If that dosent work you will need to take the complete valve of. Its only 3 10mm bolts make sure the flap inside is movin freely without any resistance. Hope this helps..
Old 04 March 2010, 08:54 PM
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bmposer
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Originally Posted by f4la k
Take the idle control valve of and clean it. Just take the 2 small screws of at first and try cleaning the top bit. It is magnetised so when you pull it of it will probably have metal debris on it. Just give ita good clean and try that..
also make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Old 04 March 2010, 10:29 PM
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CBROWN_SUGA
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Thanks for the advice..

I didnt notice it while I was test driving, only the day after.. Always the way.. Its not eratic, just would like to get it sorted as it gets annoying.. Get no throttle stick when I release at any speed, it will drop down to correct idle speed, then shoot up to 2k, then settle. I'll take a look at the idle valve this wkend and post an update..

One more question.. what bhp should I be pushing? its standard bar panel filter and sti backbox. compared to a classic saloon i took for a spin power delivery seems different and not so aggressive but still seems to go just as quick
Old 04 March 2010, 10:52 PM
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joz8968
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Originally Posted by CBROWN_SUGA
One more question.. what bhp should I be pushing? its standard bar panel filter and sti backbox. compared to a classic saloon i took for a spin power delivery seems different and not so aggressive but still seems to go just as quick
CS, what turbo, injectors and intercooler do you have?

Originally Posted by CBROWN_SUGA
compared to a classic saloon i took for a spin power delivery seems different and not so aggressive but still seems to go just as quick
A large part of that feeling will be the New Age's extra 100kgs - i.e. greater inertia - over the heaviest Classic i.e. c.1370kg plays c.1270kg.

Depending on what power it's putting out, your New Age could well be down on power/weight compared to the Classic.

Last edited by joz8968; 04 March 2010 at 10:58 PM.
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