Fitting an FPR gauge
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
I believe a few turns of plumber's PTFE tape does the job, yes?
Remember though, you're only really supposed to TEMPORARILY fit the gauge for setting the pressure in the first instance. Once done/mapped etc., then the gauge is to be removed and the port is supposed to plugged with the supplied threaded bung (but use the PTFE tape here also, obviously).
Remember though, you're only really supposed to TEMPORARILY fit the gauge for setting the pressure in the first instance. Once done/mapped etc., then the gauge is to be removed and the port is supposed to plugged with the supplied threaded bung (but use the PTFE tape here also, obviously).
Last edited by joz8968; 03 March 2010 at 10:40 AM.
#4
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
Advice is from APi David. Plus seen it written down from authorative source too.
I think the reasoning is that a simple brass bung has no modular 'parts' to it that could fail and leak (under serious pressure remember)... unlike the many parts of a gauge!
I haven't got my latest rounds of mods fitted/mapped yet, but when APi fits it all, I defo WON'T have the gauge fitted permanently (for the reasons mentioned). Not worth a potential melted engine, IMO!
(Keep the gauge in the glovebox, so that, should you need to, you can use it to recheck pressure/troubleshoot, etc...)
I think the reasoning is that a simple brass bung has no modular 'parts' to it that could fail and leak (under serious pressure remember)... unlike the many parts of a gauge!
I haven't got my latest rounds of mods fitted/mapped yet, but when APi fits it all, I defo WON'T have the gauge fitted permanently (for the reasons mentioned). Not worth a potential melted engine, IMO!
(Keep the gauge in the glovebox, so that, should you need to, you can use it to recheck pressure/troubleshoot, etc...)
Last edited by joz8968; 03 March 2010 at 01:46 PM.
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