My recent diagnostics test
Alrite all,
Recently brought a 1996 wrx import, and its really jumpy when I put my foot down and idling bad, sometimes cuttting out...Sooooooo I did a diagnostics tests and I got these codes....22,23,31,42. so its Knock sensor, MAF sensor, Throttle Position Sensor Circuit, Idle switch. Does the TPSC and Idle switch show up when the MAF and Knock sensor are f00ked? I cleaned the MAF today but couldnt find the green connectors to reset the ecu
. One last question lol will these probs def be because of the MAF and Knock sensor or can it be something else but not show on the ecu codes?
Cheers....
Lee
Recently brought a 1996 wrx import, and its really jumpy when I put my foot down and idling bad, sometimes cuttting out...Sooooooo I did a diagnostics tests and I got these codes....22,23,31,42. so its Knock sensor, MAF sensor, Throttle Position Sensor Circuit, Idle switch. Does the TPSC and Idle switch show up when the MAF and Knock sensor are f00ked? I cleaned the MAF today but couldnt find the green connectors to reset the ecu
. One last question lol will these probs def be because of the MAF and Knock sensor or can it be something else but not show on the ecu codes?Cheers....

Lee
Just because you have an error code present it doesn't mean that the sensor in question is necessarily dead. All it means is that at some time since the last reset there has been a temporary problem. if you unplug the maf sensor and key on the ignition you will create a MAF fault code. A knock sensor fault can be recorded due to excessive engine knock (detonation) and the ECU retarding the ignition to the extent that it also reduces the boost.
Unplug the battery for 20 mins (the simple way of resetting) and then start and drive the car for a few minute, then recheck for codes and see what you've got.
I would guess that the throttle position sensor (which has the idle switch built in) is the culprit. Jet washing the engine bay is a fairly good way to kill those sensor.
Unplug the battery for 20 mins (the simple way of resetting) and then start and drive the car for a few minute, then recheck for codes and see what you've got.
I would guess that the throttle position sensor (which has the idle switch built in) is the culprit. Jet washing the engine bay is a fairly good way to kill those sensor.
All the required connectors to readd fault codes and reset the ecu are under the driver's side of the dash, normally close to the steering column. - If the green reset connectors haven't been previously used they will still be taped to the loom - Get under there with a torch and i'm sure you'll find them.
All the info you need is here - Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / Reading ECU Fault Codes
As mentioned above - clear all the codes by performing a reset, then see what comes back.
All the info you need is here - Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / Reading ECU Fault Codes
As mentioned above - clear all the codes by performing a reset, then see what comes back.
Ahhh so I dont have to fiddle around looking for the green cables I can just reset it by doing as you said...Cuz I tried looking and couldnt find them they prolly are there im just being blind! cheers both for the help! Il reset it tomoz and let ya know what happens!
Lee
Lee
Did the reset and ran the car in the morning it jumped for a second and the CEL flashed, did another diagnostics test and it was MAF sensor
. So cleaning it didnt work (must be f00ked!)...Any ideas where to get a new one from at the best price? its the green maf. Also ive noticed mukey stuff by the power steering topper, how do I go about re-sealing it??
Cheers
Lee
. So cleaning it didnt work (must be f00ked!)...Any ideas where to get a new one from at the best price? its the green maf. Also ive noticed mukey stuff by the power steering topper, how do I go about re-sealing it??
Cheers
Lee
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