THE FIRST ENGINE MOD !
THE FIRST ENGINE MOD !
05 January 2010, 10:22 PM
#2
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Depends on where you wan to go. There are some cheap mods to do, by changing fueling to paralell, FPR added, fuel pump, some hoses changed, new air filter, panel or cone, or blings bits, the lists goes on and on.
Think about a goal, ie bhp or just a good looking engine bay.
Think about a goal, ie bhp or just a good looking engine bay.
05 January 2010, 10:29 PM
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hi sorry ment for bhp i have got the blingy bits and waiting on a set of red hoses, Got a kn and polished strut brace, adjustable dampers and ride hight ( Gab ).
06 January 2010, 12:31 AM
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To be fair there isn't one mod that you will notice a great deal of difference from, the power comes from a combination of mods and a remap.
Modding the car isn't particularly safe without mapping the car to suit, Cone filter not a good idea unless going for huge power...... or a FMIC, it's not needed!
Buy the bits, store them up and fit them all in one go and get it mapped, it's great when that happens, from slow to FAAAST in one sitting
Modding the car isn't particularly safe without mapping the car to suit, Cone filter not a good idea unless going for huge power...... or a FMIC, it's not needed!
Buy the bits, store them up and fit them all in one go and get it mapped, it's great when that happens, from slow to FAAAST in one sitting
06 January 2010, 12:39 AM
#7
The single most bolt-on mod to release as much power as poss is to put on a decat downpipe and a remap. This typically liberates upto c.40bhp safely (dependent on your MY/injectors/turbo...).
However, you really should team this with a Walbro 255lph fuel pump though - and also a good idea to replace the panel filter/plugs/fuel filter with fresh items - before the remap. Also a full aftermarket exhaust system complements the decat too.
As you can see, as mentioned above, it's economically viable (in the long run) to fit all of that (rather than just the decat only) before the remap.
However, you really should team this with a Walbro 255lph fuel pump though - and also a good idea to replace the panel filter/plugs/fuel filter with fresh items - before the remap. Also a full aftermarket exhaust system complements the decat too.
As you can see, as mentioned above, it's economically viable (in the long run) to fit all of that (rather than just the decat only) before the remap.
Last edited by joz8968; 06 January 2010 at 12:45 AM.
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06 January 2010, 09:21 AM
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It’s important to service, or replaces the oil pumps on the early cars, it's worrying the amount we see with loose backing plates, this is especially the case when service history is staggered.
In my opinion I would do this first or install an oil pressure gauge, check the engines general health then tune from there on in.
In my opinion I would do this first or install an oil pressure gauge, check the engines general health then tune from there on in.
06 January 2010, 11:59 AM
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It’s important to service, or replaces the oil pumps on the early cars, it's worrying the amount we see with loose backing plates, this is especially the case when service history is staggered.
In my opinion I would do this first or install an oil pressure gauge, check the engines general health then tune from there on in.
In my opinion I would do this first or install an oil pressure gauge, check the engines general health then tune from there on in.
06 January 2010, 03:47 PM
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All sound advice and taken on board cheers. Gonna look for a oil pressure gauge on ebay for starters and then have a full service at the clinic. It had one 4 months ago and new cam belt. Its only done 69000 and is boosting at 0.5 so its safe at the mo.
06 January 2010, 04:07 PM
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Isn't 0.5 bar safe mode?
A error code caused mine to run 0.5..... i thought they ran 0.9 as standard?
Maybe I'm talking about imports here, are you a UK or import?
Or i could just be totally wrong haa?
A error code caused mine to run 0.5..... i thought they ran 0.9 as standard?
Maybe I'm talking about imports here, are you a UK or import?
Or i could just be totally wrong haa?
Last edited by scooby87; 06 January 2010 at 04:08 PM.
06 January 2010, 04:09 PM
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just standard boost i believe. I am a import. It runs sweet so hope this is just standard boost ! Just been and cheacked on my boost gauge and had a flirt around the net it seems to be 0.6 to 0.9 ???? mine is boosting around 0.6 on the gauge ( hks ) but like i say runs very sweet and is as tight as can be with no rattles or knocks. It uses no oil or water at all its only got 69000 on the clock so all is well i hope !!
Last edited by scoobybry!; 06 January 2010 at 04:24 PM.
06 January 2010, 04:41 PM
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06 January 2010, 05:04 PM
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saloon. my gauge goes into red a 0.9 till 1.5 it is a greedy gauge not hks like i said When it went to the clinic they said it was all ok and it read 0.5 then?? Do they all read in bar?
Last edited by scoobybry!; 06 January 2010 at 05:06 PM.
06 January 2010, 05:15 PM
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You get ones that read PSI and Bar but mainly Bar, and .5 isnt right, it should be pushing .9 bar as standard, a run on a decent rolling road or resetting your ecu may clear the problem for now (it may become more apparent if you see your boost go up then go back to limp mode) or you could have another underlying issue that needs to be investigated, but its definately not right 
As for the model/year, always best giving as much info as possible, here is to demonstrate why
as your car is an MY95 wrx saloon producing 260ps (257bhp on super unleaded only) the wrx wagon produces 220ps (218bhp on super only), an MY94 wrx saloon produces 240ps (237bhp) and an MY97 wrx saloon produces 280ps (276bhp) so lots of different varients
Tony
As for the model/year, always best giving as much info as possible, here is to demonstrate why
as your car is an MY95 wrx saloon producing 260ps (257bhp on super unleaded only) the wrx wagon produces 220ps (218bhp on super only), an MY94 wrx saloon produces 240ps (237bhp) and an MY97 wrx saloon produces 280ps (276bhp) so lots of different varients Tony
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