mike.

Is anyone having any problems with the running of there scooby in all this heat we are having ie misfiring ??

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

No mine was fine today. Obviously would run better though in cooler conditions. If yours is mis-firing maybe you should check your coil packs if it's a classic like mine that you've got.

mike.

Yes its a classic my00, i think that might be the problem, i have put a new set of plugs in, i put a set of ngk pfr 7b intead of the 6's because it was running funny with the 6's aswell and the leads are not that old to, the old plugs look like they have been running to hot to. I was just seeing if the weather might have an effect on this.

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

I don't think it's the weather unfortunately, just make sure the gaps on the plugs are correct, double check all the leads, connections, distributor etc and see how she goes. Gareth

mattlfbuk

Hi guys,

I really need some help.

I've had my Subaru Impreza STi 6 (Import) for just under a year now. Bought it with 59000 miles on the clock and was told it was running apprx 340 bhp.

After buying the car, I got it fully serviced (all oils changed including diff, gear etc).

I've only put about 2000 miles on the car and feel that I look after it quite well (thoroughly warm her up before boosting off, letting her cool properly (turbo timer), not thrashing for longing than about 1 min etc)

Reluctantly I recently put my car up for sale as my insurance is due for renewal next month (cheaper to drive my company car - free!- not as fun though :-(

After 2 days of it being up for sale on the internet, I thought I'd take it for a dyno run (rolling road) test and see what she can do, before I sell her....

This was to be my downfall!

Both runs on the dyno went perfect, well, if your car is supposed to sound like it's about to blow up then these guys done a great job! lol

The car was running 354.1 bhp at the engine and just over 300 Ib torque!
Excellent news!

Left the garage and drove apprx 5 miles home and nearing my destination, I heard a tapping/clicking sound from my engine. opened the bonnet and listened. It is/was a not so loud tapping sound that followed the revs - ie. if i put foot on the gas, the clicking gets faster and louder, it follows the rev sound.

After speaking to a few friends (not reallly car enthusiasts) I'd heard terms like 'Main bearings', 'Piston Rods' and 'Big End' could be at fault.

I finally got it recovered today to the original place I took it for it's dyno run. The car still runs but obviously there is a loud clicking sound, which coincidently has got louder now after starting the engine a few more times since the problem began.

As soon as the guy turned the engine on, he turned it straight off and told me that either the PISTON/PISTON RODS had gone or the BIG END had gone.
He then told me the cheapest and maybe quickest way of solving the problem is to REPLACE MY ENGINE!!!!

Now I can't and don't blame the dyno guys one bit as the car reliability is 100% down to me and you sign a waiver of liability before they run the tests on your car to cover themselves for any damage incurred.

He has told me a rough estimate of £3000 it would cost to purchase a 2nd hand engine and fit it.

From what he suggests, it sounds like he wants me to pay £3000 to get my car running back to it was last week!!

Is replacing the engine the only option if Piston/pistons rods or big end has gone - when I say gone, this is the word the mechanic used, as in f**ked!
(not sure on the technical term? maybe broken...)

How do i know the big end or piston is broken??

Is my only option a like for like engine replacement or can I stick a bigger/newer engine in my scooby, at least so I get something more for my money?

Does a 2nd hand engine replacement fully fitted cost around £3000 for this type of car??

Any ideas on where to get a decent cheap 2nd hand engine?

Any ideas on a decent cheap place to get it fitted? I'm in Cheshunt, Hertfordshire


Any and all information is appreciated, look forward to speaking to you guys soon!!




Matt

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

Hi Matt,
thats bad news . My classic's engine went just after I bought my car and it was doing a similar thing before it croked. Mine was Big-end failure (@73,000 odd miles).
I had my engine rebuilt by a company called API Impreza. They're website is API Engines if that works.
They did a really good job on my classic and lots of other people recommend them to. My car has done over 9000 miles now since the rebuild and still going strong. If you give them a call speak to David and I'm sure he can point out your options and the costs.
If I was you I'd do a forum search and you will find lots of info to help you out and if your still struggling start your own new thread so a few more people will notice this and help you out.
Goodluck, it's a nightmare I know
Gareth

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Mines ok, 2nd 'summer' What mods if any??

mike.

Not to many mods, remap, panel filter, decat an 3inch system through, i have got some miles on it now, 150,000, but had a rebuild at 75,000, it has run fine just the past few weeks its started to run funny, i think it could just be on its way out now, but then i do warm it up an cool it done all the time an 80% of the miles are motorway miles, i think she might be dying now

ReggieMY99

7b's are gapped differently then 6b's either replace with 6b's or adjust the gap

wrongly gapped plugs will result in what you describe

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

About the same as mine then



Gapped my 7's to 0.65 if thats any help

mike.

Gapped my 7's to 0.65 if thats any help[/QUOTE]

I think my 7's were gapped to 0.7, the car misfires on idle an you can feel it when at a constant speed on the motorway, but under full load it seems to run ok, i have checked the maf aswell an that is fine. So 0.05 of a gap can make a difference?

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

I think my 7's were gapped to 0.7, the car misfires on idle an you can feel it when at a constant speed on the motorway, but under full load it seems to run ok, i have checked the maf aswell an that is fine. So 0.05 of a gap can make a difference?[/QUOTE]

Its got to be worth half hour of your time to check, also inspect HT leads ect

mike.

I had a spare 2 mins this afternoon and had a look at the coil pack an the HT lead connections, on 3 and 4 there was what i would discribe as green burn marks on the coil pack connections, it brushed off with a wire brush, but its just strange that 3 and 4 were the ones that had the the plugs looking like they were running to hot when i had the 6's in anyone know what would cause this?

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

The green is 'verdigris'., natural copper corrosion, perfectly normal imho The burns will occur from a little arcing, be sure the tips on the plugs are tight

mattlfbuk

Thanks, GMballistic

mike.

Ok cheers nothing to worry about there then, i will regap the plugs when i get the chance to 0.65 like you said, this maybe a stupid question but whats the best way to regap the plugs, i know there i a tool designed for the job but i dont have one, so how else can i do it without damaging the plugs?

Mike.

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

I use one of these, can be done with other tools be like you say, you don't want to damage the plugs

Halfords Spark Plug Gauge Metric from Halfords Price £5.99

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Matt, a full engine rebuild will cost you about 2.5-3k, not a second hand engine which is about 800 quid and pray it lasts!
If its getting rebuilt then go for the uprated crank from the MY03 onwards JDM cars (grooved/nitrated for better oil flow to the bearings) and ACL bearings (you can pick these up for 5-600 i think off ebay), or speak to David at API who does these.
Good option to uprate those rods and pistons also (and oil pump)

Tony

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

Wise words Tony

mike.

Well finally got round to fixing the problem, i think it was the lambda sensor, i also changed the leads and regapped the plugs to 0.65, seems to be running much better now, thinks for your help mate

mike.