help/pointers fitting downpipe classic
#1
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help/pointers fitting downpipe classic
hi all, im going to attempt to fit a 3'' down to 2.5'' downpipe today on my 1994 wrx 0n my drive ive got everything ready gaskets & heat wrap, can anyone give me any pointers on doing it please? so far got car on axle stands as high as i can, ive removed the turbo heat sheild, unplugged the cat on fire & undone a couple of the turbo nuts god these where tight even after a good soak in wd are these some kind of lock nut do they need replacing once off?, is it now just the bracket which holds the turbo heat sheild to remove to get to the 2 underneeth turbo nuts? thanks in advance
Last edited by w13dle; 30 May 2009 at 08:15 AM.
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Yeah turbo bolts are a swine todo first time in a while, i always reuse them and have had no problems with a blowing exhaust. You should have a bracket holding the DP onto the side of the gearbox and obviously 2 bolts holding the end of the DP onto the centre pipe.
It took a fair bit of wiggling to get mine off but got there in the end.
I would take the top mount of if i were you, give you more light if anything but will give you better access to the turbo/box bolts.
hope this help
It took a fair bit of wiggling to get mine off but got there in the end.
I would take the top mount of if i were you, give you more light if anything but will give you better access to the turbo/box bolts.
hope this help
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cheer for the quick reply & help mate, how did you get to the 2 underneath turbo nuts these look a right nightmare to get to? just wondering if these would be more accesible when the cars not jacked up
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dislocate your wrists!
i think i did them from underneath 1/8th of a turn at a time! IMO they, along with the engine/box bolt underneath, are the worst ones on the car.
a 14mm ring spanner is probably the best tool for the job unless you have flexi sockets etc
i think i did them from underneath 1/8th of a turn at a time! IMO they, along with the engine/box bolt underneath, are the worst ones on the car.
a 14mm ring spanner is probably the best tool for the job unless you have flexi sockets etc
#6
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2 bolts on heatshield undone from underneath even with the lower strut brace in the way. Use a small socket and small ratchet.
As huds said earlier remember to take the bolt that secures DP to gearbox out. The bracket on the DP will get stuck once you remove the bolt and will need wiggling out.
As huds said earlier remember to take the bolt that secures DP to gearbox out. The bracket on the DP will get stuck once you remove the bolt and will need wiggling out.
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Good Luck mate. oh and lots more WD
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your not wrong mate its turning out to be a right nightmare everythings off brackets the lot apart from these 2 blasted nuts on the bottom of the turbo we've tried every tool in the box the correct 14mm ring spanner socket just not sit right cause its rounded & cant get no room to try & tap a 13 on, ended up having to hack saw one of the top nuts off took us all morning, but dont want to have to do this on the bottom with being the studs, but hey its a lovey day
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Hopfully you have it sorted by now But if not then this tread may help
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ull-decat.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ull-decat.html
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Hopfully you have it sorted by now But if not then this tread may help
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ull-decat.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ull-decat.html
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ive managed to break a hose now this isnt going well , on the end of the let hand fuel rail theres 2 hoses attached one being the fuel is the other one a vacum this was so brittle & snapped but i cant see were the feed comes from?
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Hmm you got any pics?
As the only pipes i can think of which go past that rail are actually the power steering hoses.
They start as metal from the pump and then become rubber hoses as they pass the injector on Cylinder 4, this is where the fuel pressure regulator is.
As the only pipes i can think of which go past that rail are actually the power steering hoses.
They start as metal from the pump and then become rubber hoses as they pass the injector on Cylinder 4, this is where the fuel pressure regulator is.
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all nuts off now with help from a hammer chisel grinder hack saw & various sockets job & half ill not be doing another one of these again in a hurry new downpipe wrapped & ready to go, thanks again for all your help guys
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yeah its part of the fuel rail, fairly cheap stuff to buy.
i had to replace some of these pipe on my astra diesel as they became brittle as were letting air into the fuel system.
It might be worth replacing all the fuel line pipes if this one has become brittle enough to snap rather that bend.
i had to replace some of these pipe on my astra diesel as they became brittle as were letting air into the fuel system.
It might be worth replacing all the fuel line pipes if this one has become brittle enough to snap rather that bend.
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right day 2 of fun, managed to get the new downpipe on yesterday but found it not a amazing fit onto the turbo very tight, tried to put it on as central as we could anyone else found this when fitting one its a japspeed? im hoping when i put the nuts in tighten them up evenly it will pull it in not the best i know but only thing i can do, also any idea where i can get some nuts & bolts from for the top 2 on the turbo then some bolts for the studs on a sunday? anymore ideas on the pipe i broke what it is & if i can join it some how for a tempory messure as i need my car back on the road tomorrow for work? cheers
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the actual hose is about 5 inches long so get some woman hands and you should be able to get it popped on. I can take a pic as i have a manifold off at the moment.
where abouts are you as im sure I have some turbo bolts.
where abouts are you as im sure I have some turbo bolts.
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that would be spot on it you could pop us a picture up so i can see where everything routes im in nottingham mate abit of a way from you but thanks for the thought, i might give b&q a try only place i can think of today that are open today