Overheating water temperature.
#1
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Overheating water temperature.
Hi all i have been having a few issues with my 06 hawkeye WRX. The car has had a intermittent issue with fluctuating water temp. During trips the cars water temp goes up all the way to the red sits there for a while and then for no reason drops this keeps occurring on and off. Sometimes the car runs fine but then on the trip home this fluctuation will occur again.
RCM fitted some gauges oil temp pressure and boost and this overheating has / is having no effect on oil temp which i found very odd ???
Any advice or ideas are welcome
RCM fitted some gauges oil temp pressure and boost and this overheating has / is having no effect on oil temp which i found very odd ???
Any advice or ideas are welcome
#6
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If the coolant system hasn't been touched then there should be no reason for an airlock, unless the coolant fluid had been run low?
I'm going with the thermostat on this one as i reckon hard water has chalked it up and it only exapands as in when it's forced to do so by the excessively hot water.
Or could be a faulty temp sensor.
I'm going with the thermostat on this one as i reckon hard water has chalked it up and it only exapands as in when it's forced to do so by the excessively hot water.
Or could be a faulty temp sensor.
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#8
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F1 - if your going to be using performence coolant i.e. some 50/50 mixtures then please do not use normal tap water and stick to de-ionised water in your whole cooling system.
I personally stopped using tap water in all my cars some 10 years ago and have noticed that i have no chalk in my car coolant systems anymore and even when i stripped my BM's engine it was chalk free, (water pumps on BM's usually last 50k miles my one lasted 140K). All positive if you live in a hard water area like mine.
Good Luck
PS - when you fill the coolant back up try and fill the coolant system using the turbo coolant intake pipe (this comes off the coolant expansion tank bottle to turbo) use a little funnel and top up i have never had an air lock using this method.
I personally stopped using tap water in all my cars some 10 years ago and have noticed that i have no chalk in my car coolant systems anymore and even when i stripped my BM's engine it was chalk free, (water pumps on BM's usually last 50k miles my one lasted 140K). All positive if you live in a hard water area like mine.
Good Luck
PS - when you fill the coolant back up try and fill the coolant system using the turbo coolant intake pipe (this comes off the coolant expansion tank bottle to turbo) use a little funnel and top up i have never had an air lock using this method.
#9
hi mate, what mileage is your car...i did have same issues once i had the car serviced....changed the coolant but whilst i had gone for a hard run and stopped the needle would rise, it nearly went to the end but as soon as i would start driving again it would come down. very weird, but mine turned otu to be an airlock.
to resolve an airlock i got told to take the cap off by the turbo and turn the car on and stick heaters on full blast... i could see loads of big bubbles popping about in the tank but it also needs to blow out hot air so gota keep checking
hope it helps,
ps: search my previous posts and find thread "could this be airlock"
to resolve an airlock i got told to take the cap off by the turbo and turn the car on and stick heaters on full blast... i could see loads of big bubbles popping about in the tank but it also needs to blow out hot air so gota keep checking
hope it helps,
ps: search my previous posts and find thread "could this be airlock"
#10
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40k but its a weekend only car now. waiting for some big work from rcm, planned 500bhp.
"could this be airlock" will have a little read thanks.
STI_Baly thanks mate, will follow your advice sounds like a good plan. thanks again you have been a great help
"could this be airlock" will have a little read thanks.
STI_Baly thanks mate, will follow your advice sounds like a good plan. thanks again you have been a great help
#12
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Faulty temperature sender/connection?
My car tried to kill itself a couple of weeks ago, fubar'd thermostat and faulty wiring to the fan I was using.
Replaced the stat and moved the fan to the other side of the rad and sorted.
My car tried to kill itself a couple of weeks ago, fubar'd thermostat and faulty wiring to the fan I was using.
Replaced the stat and moved the fan to the other side of the rad and sorted.
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still no joy did what you said, had a good drive out no issues going slow on the way home and ....... temp went crazy
think it must be a faulty temp sensor. if the temp was way past the red would i not have steam
think it must be a faulty temp sensor. if the temp was way past the red would i not have steam
#15
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Not necessarily. When my car had a HG fail, then when I used boost, the temp would fly to the max red... but wouldn't release the pressure cap (therefore steam noticable from underbonnet) until about 118deg C!
I reckon your thermostat is very lazy (as per Baly's diagnosis) and/or your water pump could be slipping or something. I'd replace the stat first and see how you get on. If no luck, then you could replace pump too -- GGR do a remanufactured one for £38 (I have one of these fitted). But you need to remove the cambelt etc to replace the pump, so that's why just do the stat first, to see how it goes.
If you do do the stat, then how about keeping those temps even further under control by getting a lower temp rated one i.e. Lateral Performance's Zero Sports 71deg C opening one (rather than the OEM 78deg jobbie). The stat is not exactly cheap at about £48 + VAT, but it really works. I have it fitted also, and in-traffic temps average only 83deg C. When driving freely with air moving through the rad, the temps sometimes come down to below 80deg! Excellent for peace of mind re. keeping any internal hot-spots under control.
NOTE: When you get your overheating issue sorted, check when your fans kick in... It should happen as regular as clockwork as soon as the temp clicks over to 91deg.
Could be, but you normally get really bad idling - sometimes cutting out or nearly cutting out. Does you car suffer these sort of symptoms?
Hope all/any of this info is of use...
I reckon your thermostat is very lazy (as per Baly's diagnosis) and/or your water pump could be slipping or something. I'd replace the stat first and see how you get on. If no luck, then you could replace pump too -- GGR do a remanufactured one for £38 (I have one of these fitted). But you need to remove the cambelt etc to replace the pump, so that's why just do the stat first, to see how it goes.
If you do do the stat, then how about keeping those temps even further under control by getting a lower temp rated one i.e. Lateral Performance's Zero Sports 71deg C opening one (rather than the OEM 78deg jobbie). The stat is not exactly cheap at about £48 + VAT, but it really works. I have it fitted also, and in-traffic temps average only 83deg C. When driving freely with air moving through the rad, the temps sometimes come down to below 80deg! Excellent for peace of mind re. keeping any internal hot-spots under control.
NOTE: When you get your overheating issue sorted, check when your fans kick in... It should happen as regular as clockwork as soon as the temp clicks over to 91deg.
Could be, but you normally get really bad idling - sometimes cutting out or nearly cutting out. Does you car suffer these sort of symptoms?
Hope all/any of this info is of use...
Last edited by joz8968; 01 June 2009 at 01:04 PM.
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