chipped ecu
#3
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well you could always ask the person who fitted what the problem is.
Frequently Asked Questions this may help even if it's not a polarperformance chip.
Frequently Asked Questions this may help even if it's not a polarperformance chip.
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#8
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ye i no that ive looked at that already i dont think its got anything to do with the ecu its been running 0.9 on a manual boost controller since i got it i remember taking it off when i first got it and putting it back on to standard and im pretty sure it was only boosting 0.5 so i think its been like that for a while could it be the map sensor?
#12
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Post 4 there seems to possibly be a leak of some sort,colipack problem or plugs.
Or the chip may not be seated properly (but then you would have starting problems).
Possibly dodgy actuator (as 0.5bar is wastegate pressure).
You can check the turbo intercooler hose (need to remove the tmic though.
Or the chip may not be seated properly (but then you would have starting problems).
Possibly dodgy actuator (as 0.5bar is wastegate pressure).
You can check the turbo intercooler hose (need to remove the tmic though.
#13
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hold on you say you have removed a manual boost controller?
have you put it back to standard set up with the boost solonoid now?
ecu may well not be the issue and your only getting 0.5 because the solonoid is not working/connected correctly
Having Boost Issues? - Subaru Impreza Drivers Club
great info on the system there
have you put it back to standard set up with the boost solonoid now?
ecu may well not be the issue and your only getting 0.5 because the solonoid is not working/connected correctly
Having Boost Issues? - Subaru Impreza Drivers Club
great info on the system there
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ye its back to standard but its never run of standard solenoid its been like that since i bought it its always had manual boost controller ichanged the plugs about 2-3 weeks ago the coil packs are about 3 months old and the actuator feels really tight
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Sean it sounds like the solonoid.
connect the green plugs together under dash (then turn on ignition) and check it clicks rapidly, fans and other stuff will come on ignore those.
if it does not click then thats your problem, may well be knackered and hence it had a manual controller on when you got it.
they cost £130 new but around £20 second hand
two different types as well so make sure you get correct one.
connect the green plugs together under dash (then turn on ignition) and check it clicks rapidly, fans and other stuff will come on ignore those.
if it does not click then thats your problem, may well be knackered and hence it had a manual controller on when you got it.
they cost £130 new but around £20 second hand
two different types as well so make sure you get correct one.
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ok so electrical connections are working, next step
can you get a pic up of the solonoid? would help to see if there is something obviously amiss.
also did you check the Restrictor Pill ?
can you get a pic up of the solonoid? would help to see if there is something obviously amiss.
also did you check the Restrictor Pill ?
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YE THATS SOUND ILL CHECK THAT THE MORO BUT THERES NO CUT OF AT ALL ITS JUST BOOSTING .5 BAR. IF YOU PUT THE MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER ON IT WILL BOOST .85 BUT IT SPLUTTERS SOUNDS LIKE SLIGHT BACKFIRES WHEN YOU START GETTING HIGH UP IN THE REVS IT JUST DOESNT SEEM TO LIKE THE BOOST AT ALL
#23
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Hi Sean, guessing you are mspeedy from Western isles.
Got your email a day or so ago, was gonna email but havn't been online for a couple of days, did try emailing from mobile but failed.
You need to remove the other boost controller and re-plumb the subaru boost control as per Boost Solenoid Plumbing.
this should get you to 1.1bar.
if it doesn't achieve 1.1bar then clean out all the pipes and make sure the restrictor isn't blocked.
if it still doesn't achieve 1.1bar then the actuator probably needs re-tensioning.
if it overshoots 1.1bar make sure the restrictor is in the pipe indicated in the above link.
if it still overshoots then make sure the actuator isn't over-tight i.e you really struggle to pull it/slot it onto the wastegate pin.
when cars run alternative boost control all sorts of things can potentially be done which buggers it up when you revert back to OE control.
if it mis-fires then coil packs are failing and will need replacing (if they are new 2nd hand rather then new new), see Damaged Coilpack
Coilpacks are the baine of my live and have numerous emails complaining of misfire.....when the owners eventually get a new set they can't beleive how much better the car runs.
plugs need to be gapped to 0.7mm for NGKPFR6B or 0.65mm for NGKPFR7B, I wouldn't recommend any other plug i.e irridium rubbish.
Regards
Scott....
Got your email a day or so ago, was gonna email but havn't been online for a couple of days, did try emailing from mobile but failed.
You need to remove the other boost controller and re-plumb the subaru boost control as per Boost Solenoid Plumbing.
this should get you to 1.1bar.
if it doesn't achieve 1.1bar then clean out all the pipes and make sure the restrictor isn't blocked.
if it still doesn't achieve 1.1bar then the actuator probably needs re-tensioning.
if it overshoots 1.1bar make sure the restrictor is in the pipe indicated in the above link.
if it still overshoots then make sure the actuator isn't over-tight i.e you really struggle to pull it/slot it onto the wastegate pin.
when cars run alternative boost control all sorts of things can potentially be done which buggers it up when you revert back to OE control.
if it mis-fires then coil packs are failing and will need replacing (if they are new 2nd hand rather then new new), see Damaged Coilpack
Coilpacks are the baine of my live and have numerous emails complaining of misfire.....when the owners eventually get a new set they can't beleive how much better the car runs.
plugs need to be gapped to 0.7mm for NGKPFR6B or 0.65mm for NGKPFR7B, I wouldn't recommend any other plug i.e irridium rubbish.
Regards
Scott....
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rite guys im still no further forward i got a new solenoid map sensor actuator no difference i started stripping it down took the intercooler off and the hose that joins to the turbo side seems to have a we crack under the jublee clip could this be my problem?
#27
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Scott has replied to you mate and 'he da man' you should be listening to, after all he designed and fitted the chip. I've had one fitted for a year or so now with no problems what so ever.
When Scott fitted your chip and returned the ECU did he fit a 'jumper'?? If so put the jumper on (which will put you back to standard ECU) and try the car. I will bet you still have the same probs, thus ruling out any probs with the chip. A chip will not only improve your car but will emphisis (spelling) any existing problems you have, they are a modification, not a mirical cure.
Goes without saying, Scott please step in if i am wrong
When Scott fitted your chip and returned the ECU did he fit a 'jumper'?? If so put the jumper on (which will put you back to standard ECU) and try the car. I will bet you still have the same probs, thus ruling out any probs with the chip. A chip will not only improve your car but will emphisis (spelling) any existing problems you have, they are a modification, not a mirical cure.
Goes without saying, Scott please step in if i am wrong
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