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fitting vf35 to my99 uk wagon.

Old Mar 1, 2009 | 07:35 PM
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Default fitting vf35 to my99 uk wagon.

hi,thinking of fitting a vf35 to my uk 99 yurbo wagon,is it a difficult job? is there any gaskets or banjos etc i need to buy before attempting job? anyone done this,last thing i want is to fit it to find ive got a coolant/oil leak,also my car has ecu tek 3 map and would it need mapping straight away or can i run it for a few months without map tweek? i wont do this job if its major hassle,just wondered how hard it is to do,if i can fit it myself then mapping gets closer
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 99greenwagon
hi,thinking of fitting a vf35 to my uk 99 yurbo wagon,is it a difficult job? is there any gaskets or banjos etc i need to buy before attempting job? anyone done this,last thing i want is to fit it to find ive got a coolant/oil leak,also my car has ecu tek 3 map and would it need mapping straight away or can i run it for a few months without map tweek? i wont do this job if its major hassle,just wondered how hard it is to do,if i can fit it myself then mapping gets closer
Driving it normally to get to work etc it'll be just fine, just don't go ragging it till your mapper gets chance to get at it.

Martyn
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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u r my mapper martyn im trying to save the fitting charge cause u already got to do clutch,flywheel,fuel pump etc.....and a map tweek,im getting itchy feet and want to visit u,is there anything i need prior to doing this job?
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 08:31 PM
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anyone? someone must have taken this job on before?
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 08:50 PM
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A good lubricant, lol. Take your time and allow some penetrating oil to soak into the studs before attempting to remove.
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 08:59 PM
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what about gaskets?and are the banjos likely to leak after?cheers martyn,its rich brooks by the way
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 09:16 PM
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aye, its a ****e job. aye, ye'll need the two gaskets, naw, ye'll no need banjo bolts, an aye it'll surge an **** yer bearins if ye dinnae get yer laptap mate tae change yer graphs.

There, ye've saved 48p oan they banjo bolts noo mate. Pit that towards a FMIC.
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 09:23 PM
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 09:48 PM
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99green, you crack me up
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 09:49 PM
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u got any info for me?
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 10:25 PM
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any body else got some usefull info on this?
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 11:35 AM
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Get the turbo - downpipe gasket and the uppipe - turbo gasket.

Its fairly straight forward just awkward. Make sure you have 6 sided sockets. Give the bolts a spray the night before.
Drain your coolent before you start removing the turbo because you will loose most of it anyway when you take the water feed off.

As already mentioned. Take your time and you will be fine.
Mike
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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If some body as done this befor, with step buy step plus pics then we can have it posted in Technical Topics Archive
As i also would like to try doing my VF34 my self, if not £120 plus V.A.T int to bad.
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Shmerman
Get the turbo - downpipe gasket and the uppipe - turbo gasket.

Its fairly straight forward just awkward. Make sure you have 6 sided sockets. Give the bolts a spray the night before.
Drain your coolent before you start removing the turbo because you will loose most of it anyway when you take the water feed off.

As already mentioned. Take your time and you will be fine.
Mike
surely, if i was carefull would i really need to drain coolant?would u not just be able to lose only a small amount from water feed pipe? then just top up after,if im wrong in thinking like this then where is the best place to drain coolant from and how do i ensure that there will be no air locks in the system?
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 05:27 PM
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bump.......anyone?
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 05:54 PM
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I just removed mine. Lost a little coolant. But i dont think theres any need to drain unless its due to be changed
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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great ,what about oil feed?
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 99greenwagon
great ,what about oil feed?


Same as above
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 06:12 PM
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are the oil and water feeds crutial as in torque settings to ensure they dont leek after? or do they seal up well assuming im re-using the original pipes/banjos?
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 07:36 AM
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The banjo bolt for the oil feed are different on OE Td04 and vf35, use the one that comes with the vf (from JGM )
On my MY98 the air nipple on the compressor needed to be bent not to intefere with the rocker cover breather system.
Also the oli feed pipe needed to be bent away in order to remove and fit the turbos, I didn't but wish I had had a hot air gun to warm up the metal of the pipe before I started bending it.
After the change remover the camsensor and run the engine with the starter for a while to fill the turbo with oil before you run it with gas.
Aviod running it with boost before mapping.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 07:46 AM
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i did this and sprayed the nuts for a week every night came straight off when i did the job, as said just take you time
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam K
The banjo bolt for the oil feed are different on OE Td04 and vf35, use the one that comes with the vf (from JGM )
.
This isn't really an issue if going from TD > VF. It's when going back the other way that you could starve the TD series turbos of oil due to the difference in the banjo bolt.

Originally Posted by Adam K
Also the oli feed pipe needed to be bent away in order to remove and fit the turbos, I didn't but wish I had had a hot air gun to warm up the metal of the pipe before I started bending it.
If you loosen off the banjo bolt at the head you can simply move the oil feed out of the way or even remove it if you wish.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 03:19 PM
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thans for your coments
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 04:14 PM
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agree with above with lubing the nuts/studs. the ba$tard nut was the middle one on the bottom row really akward to get to. the coolent issue. i just clamped the pipes. the main issue i had was the oil breather pipe, bit tricky to get back on as it just slid down on the engine connector so had to clip underneath then put the turbo and good as gold ;-)

steve
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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hummmm,ive just noticed that on the vf35 that ive got,the oil/coolant pipes are missing,there are no pipes on it at all,so,will i be able to use everything off my td04 to complete job? ill post a pic of the vf35 in a bit!
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Adam K
The banjo bolt for the oil feed are different on OE Td04 and vf35, use the one that comes with the vf (from JGM )
On my MY98 the air nipple on the compressor needed to be bent not to intefere with the rocker cover breather system.
Also the oli feed pipe needed to be bent away in order to remove and fit the turbos, I didn't but wish I had had a hot air gun to warm up the metal of the pipe before I started bending it.
After the change remover the camsensor and run the engine with the starter for a while to fill the turbo with oil before you run it with gas.
Aviod running it with boost before mapping.
3 holes plus the one for the water i pressume?
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 05:37 PM
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thats surpose to say...... 3 available holes,one blanked of and then the one for the coolant i pressume? can i use everything i need from my td04? and why is there so many holes?do i need to buy any pipes/banjos /water gasket?etc?
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 05:44 PM
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 05:50 PM
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Pic 3&4: oil supply.
Pic 1&2; from top: coolant return, coolant supply, oil return.
I used the pipes off the old turbo for coolant (had to break them apart), OE oil supply pipe (which can't easliy be moved out of the way on my MY98, no banjo bolt on engine side) and ordered a spare vf35 oil return flange, but you can use the one from your Td04 (but not the other way around). new gasket washers for all 3 banjos are a cheap ease of mind. New gasket for oil return are almost certainly needed.
And take a look at how the air pipe on the compressor will sit regarding to the pipes on the engine, you might need to bend it upwards.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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handy thread here as im thinkin of doing the same to my 99 classic.... :-)
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