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Big End Gone Again After 600 Mile!!!!

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Old 05 January 2009, 09:12 AM
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johnlogie
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Question Big End Gone Again After 600 Mile!!!!

Bigend has gone again after a full re-build. Ive taken it easy, runnin it in nice and smooth and the feckin thing has went again!! Whats goin on?? Anybody any ideas as this car is costin me toooo much cash Im ready for burnin it!!!
Old 05 January 2009, 09:23 AM
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eggy790
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thats strange.. you taken it back to garage that did it?
Old 05 January 2009, 09:23 AM
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Did you change ur oil pump, or find out why it went in the first place ?
Old 05 January 2009, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by johnlogie
Bigend has gone again after a full re-build. Ive taken it easy, runnin it in nice and smooth and the feckin thing has went again!! Whats goin on?? Anybody any ideas as this car is costin me toooo much cash Im ready for burnin it!!!
Eeek, I'm so sorry for you mate!.

Sounds like a dodgy build.

Phone David at APi for some advice. Personally (subject to what went wrong), I'd be considering getting a full refund from the garage concerned and taking it elsewhere!

All the best getting it sorted.

Ns04
Old 05 January 2009, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by New_scooby_04
Eeek, I'm so sorry for you mate!.

Sounds like a dodgy build.

Phone David at APi for some advice. Personally (subject to what went wrong), I'd be considering getting a full refund from the garage concerned and taking it elsewhere!

All the best getting it sorted.

Ns04

yup and if the garage who built it dont want to know trading standards would be my next step!
Old 05 January 2009, 09:32 AM
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No refund, as it was my mate who did it has done a few scooby re-builds and ive known for 20 years and did it for cost price, as in no labour, i cant moan too much but its really pissed me AND him off(as he will be re-buildin it Again for free).i just want to know why and if its happened to anyone else or am i that unlucky?
Old 05 January 2009, 09:34 AM
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Did you get to the bottom of why your oil pressure light came on with the last engine?
Did your mate re-use the oil pump from the last engine or put a new one in?

nick

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Old 05 January 2009, 09:36 AM
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Upgrade your oil pump on the next build, sorry for you mate.
Old 05 January 2009, 09:39 AM
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Always always always change the oil pump after a bearing failure.
You must also renew the oil modine and throroughly clean the block by removing all the gallery plugs and comprehensively flush it out.

If you didn't change the oil pump then that would be your culprit.

Best bet is either an RCMS modified oil pump or the bigger 12mm AVCS pump.

Hope you fare better next time
Old 05 January 2009, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by scooby1doo1
Upgrade your oil pump on the next build, sorry for you mate.
its was upgraded mate. i spent a small fortune on parts ,no scrimpin, no savin, i tried to buy the best i could.
im now gonna buy the cheapest replacement i can and im goin to Knockhill on the 29 of jan to kick the **** out of it and blow the f**ker up again, from now on im havin fun!!!
Old 05 January 2009, 09:43 AM
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everything was replaced from the heads down!
Old 05 January 2009, 09:43 AM
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did you stick with the 2.oL or go to a 2.5?
Old 05 January 2009, 09:44 AM
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2.0l
Old 05 January 2009, 09:45 AM
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new block or second hand?
Old 05 January 2009, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by johnlogie
everything was replaced from the heads down!
In that case, I suggest either there was a oil priming issue when it was first started. A seal problem on the oil pump or pickup side to the pump allowing air to be sucked in. Or the builder messed up on tightening torques and checking clearances/tolerances, which probably caused a tight bearing to be wiped out due to insufficient clearances.

Unless the oil pump failed - contradictory to common thought on these boards, an upgraded pump doesn't automatically mean its better or more reliable than the factory item (thats why if fitting a new one, I'll always use a factory Subaru pump. I don't trust any of the aftermarket ones, no matter how "uprated" they claim to be. But thats my opinion based on my experience of the non-OEM parts industry though).

Either way, back to the engine builder for an explanation.

Last edited by ALi-B; 05 January 2009 at 09:54 AM.
Old 05 January 2009, 09:53 AM
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Unfortunately, this does illustrate why it's not always a good idea to let a mate do the work, or go with the cheapest quote. Even if the OP isn't getting stung for labour, he's still wasted a fair bit in parts that are now scrap.

To the OP: I really think at the very least your mate needs to get advice from a competent Subaru engine builder before having another crack at it -for the sake of your pocket and sanity!
Old 05 January 2009, 09:57 AM
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The engine builder is my mate , every thing was done to the letter, nothin was missed out and everythin was done as should be done! I am sick and tired of the bloody scooby! Im gonna get it fixed then constantly kick the **** out of it on track days then when it blows i'll wait till 5th november and burn it!!! I will NEVER biy another scooby again, and this makes me really sad as ived always loved them
Old 05 January 2009, 10:02 AM
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subaru, ford vauxhall! If u can build a fiesta cossie and a 4wd turbo corsa u can build a standard impreza engine ffs!!
Old 05 January 2009, 10:15 AM
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Impreza's r ****e buy an evo
Old 05 January 2009, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by johnlogie
No refund, as it was my mate who did it has done a few scooby re-builds and ive known for 20 years and did it for cost price, as in no labour, i cant moan too much but its really pissed me AND him off(as he will be re-buildin it Again for free).i just want to know why and if its happened to anyone else or am i that unlucky?
The reasons why it failed can't be known without looking at the engine, but could be due to:

1. S/hand "rebuilt" short engine wasn't as good as it was advertised.
2. First start-up to get oil circulating went wrong.
3. Underlying problem with car. Your last engine went in a similar fashion. Poor fuelling may have leaned out mixtures to cause detonation with bearing damage.
4. Driving style. High & prolonged speeds may lead to very high charge temps.


Pull the engine apart and post up pictures, but don't bother rebuilding again until the repeating failure cause is known.

nick
Old 05 January 2009, 10:20 AM
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Thanks nick for a sensible reply , i will strip both engines and post pics for ur viewing
Old 05 January 2009, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ALi-B
In that case, I suggest either there was a oil priming issue when it was first started. A seal problem on the oil pump or pickup side to the pump allowing air to be sucked in. Or the builder messed up on tightening torques and checking clearances/tolerances, which probably caused a tight bearing to be wiped out due to insufficient clearances.

Unless the oil pump failed - contradictory to common thought on these boards, an upgraded pump doesn't automatically mean its better or more reliable than the factory item (thats why if fitting a new one, I'll always use a factory Subaru pump. I don't trust any of the aftermarket ones, no matter how "uprated" they claim to be. But thats my opinion based on my experience of the non-OEM parts industry though).

Either way, back to the engine builder for an explanation.
I didn't say uprated I said modified. The pressure release valve in the standard pump has a grove in it and is prone to seizing. The modified one has this grove removed.

The only pump that is classed as uprated i.e flows more oil is the 12mm AVCS pump.

Also the modifed pumps are just that they are modified OEM items.
Old 05 January 2009, 10:30 AM
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The only way you will no for sure is when the engine is opened up........
Old 05 January 2009, 10:33 AM
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if i post pics can u tell me wot the problem is?
Old 05 January 2009, 10:35 AM
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Yup, that should give some idea of what caused the failure.

Banny
Old 05 January 2009, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by johnlogie
if i post pics can u tell me wot the problem is?
If you post enough of them
Get close up pictures of all bearing surfaces, piston crowns, oil pick-up, metal debris in sump, plug ends for a start.

nick
Old 05 January 2009, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by dazdavies
I didn't say uprated I said modified. The pressure release valve in the standard pump has a grove in it and is prone to seizing. The modified one has this grove removed.

The only pump that is classed as uprated i.e flows more oil is the 12mm AVCS pump.

Also the modifed pumps are just that they are modified OEM items.
The ones without the groves can stick as well, you know.
Old 05 January 2009, 12:09 PM
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LOL, If you say so.

The one I have has been fine in several stages of build the latest of which will be circa 600bhp.

----Edited by webteam---

Last edited by New_scooby_04; 05 January 2009 at 12:33 PM. Reason: Come on Daz, that's not necessary!
Old 05 January 2009, 12:32 PM
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Was that comment at Ali really necessary, Daz? I very much doubt any of the mods would claim that their mod status elevates their knowledge of Subaru engines above non-mods!

Your valuable experience with building high power engines was all that was required in that reply! Please. lets not have the baiting, eh! You're better than that!

The post has been edited accordingly!

Last edited by New_scooby_04; 05 January 2009 at 12:34 PM.
Old 05 January 2009, 01:03 PM
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I would like to know what happened here as i seam to have low oil pressure on my engine that i just rebuilt. The only thing i did not replace was the oil pump so i have ordered a RCM one today.


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