POSS BOTTOM END not sure which way 2 go.
POSS BOTTOM END not sure which way 2 go.
My car now has no oil pressure and sounds like its got a load of nuts in the engine this happend after doing approx V.Fast(on a track) i know its hard to diagnose a problem through text but I persume its the bottom end.I do plan on removing the engine my-self(as i enjoy this and may need every penny to fix this)can anyone give me any pointers on how to do this and if there is anything i need to watch out for.My next issue is wether or not to get a buy a used engine for a straight swap or source an uprated bottom end but not sure on how difficult these are to change.Also is it pos to have top end damage and if so how expensive would it be to also repaire this.Any help/answers would be grately appreciated.
If it's bottom end failure and you intend on keeping the car,then i would build a strong steel bottom end for it.
Heads would have to be checked for damage/bent valves, as the piston on the failed big end comes up and hits the combustion chamber face.
If you do a lot of track days,then consider a baffled sump,external oil cooler and a modified oil pump to reduce the chances of oil starvation under harsh "track conditions".
There are quite a few threads in the Projects section on engine self-builds,so have a read through and have the confidence to do it yourself.
Mick
Heads would have to be checked for damage/bent valves, as the piston on the failed big end comes up and hits the combustion chamber face.
If you do a lot of track days,then consider a baffled sump,external oil cooler and a modified oil pump to reduce the chances of oil starvation under harsh "track conditions".
There are quite a few threads in the Projects section on engine self-builds,so have a read through and have the confidence to do it yourself.
Mick
If it's bottom end failure and you intend on keeping the car,then i would build a strong steel bottom end for it.
Heads would have to be checked for damage/bent valves, as the piston on the failed big end comes up and hits the combustion chamber face.
If you do a lot of track days,then consider a baffled sump,external oil cooler and a modified oil pump to reduce the chances of oil starvation under harsh "track conditions".
There are quite a few threads in the Projects section on engine self-builds,so have a read through and have the confidence to do it yourself.
Mick
Heads would have to be checked for damage/bent valves, as the piston on the failed big end comes up and hits the combustion chamber face.
If you do a lot of track days,then consider a baffled sump,external oil cooler and a modified oil pump to reduce the chances of oil starvation under harsh "track conditions".
There are quite a few threads in the Projects section on engine self-builds,so have a read through and have the confidence to do it yourself.
Mick
Scooby Newbie
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 16
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A nice shortblock upgrade would be a good idea.
If you can determine that your heads are just fine, you can actually get done fairly cheaply.
Our current most popular package is;
2.5 Block Halves
Element Tuning Forged Rods
CP Pistons stock or .5mm OB
Coworth Main and Rod Bearings
This stout little bottom end is good for 500 WHP no problem, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Mated with your heads and a decent turbo, you'll have a great time.
If you can determine that your heads are just fine, you can actually get done fairly cheaply.
Our current most popular package is;
2.5 Block Halves
Element Tuning Forged Rods
CP Pistons stock or .5mm OB
Coworth Main and Rod Bearings
This stout little bottom end is good for 500 WHP no problem, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Mated with your heads and a decent turbo, you'll have a great time.
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