Is this Vacuum Line meant to be connected? - Please help
#1
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Is this Vacuum Line meant to be connected? - Please help
Hi all,
Was just replacing the MAF on our 1995 Wagon WRX Import and I discovered the bottom vac pipe from the OEM boost solenoid wasn't connected, the other two went to the actuator and inlet manifold.
Please see picture:
I've drawn a red arrow and line down the vac pipe I am referring too. The other two are connected fine. The car does have an aftermarket filter and the vac connection on the filter is blocked, would this pipe originally gone back to the stock air box, does it bleed the excess pressure away?
If I can leave it like that let me know I always thought that was the pipe that had the brass restrictor in!
T
Was just replacing the MAF on our 1995 Wagon WRX Import and I discovered the bottom vac pipe from the OEM boost solenoid wasn't connected, the other two went to the actuator and inlet manifold.
Please see picture:
I've drawn a red arrow and line down the vac pipe I am referring too. The other two are connected fine. The car does have an aftermarket filter and the vac connection on the filter is blocked, would this pipe originally gone back to the stock air box, does it bleed the excess pressure away?
If I can leave it like that let me know I always thought that was the pipe that had the brass restrictor in!
T
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Does it need to be connected do you know? On the cone filter the previous owner put some vac pipe with a bolt in the end blocking it and left that pipe disconnected as it is.
Shall I connect back into the intake or shall I just leave as is? Which pipe is meant to have the brass restrictor in?
Thanks
T
Shall I connect back into the intake or shall I just leave as is? Which pipe is meant to have the brass restrictor in?
Thanks
T
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I think on your version the restrictor pill was located in that pipe. I know you can leave that port dumping to atmosphere, so not sure if it's vital for you to plumb it back in. Has it been mapped like that?
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the pipe gos to the bottom of the standard air box its for the dumped air off the boost solenoid.it just bleeds the excess pressure away like you said. you could just pull the pipe off the solenoid so its not hanging about.
adam
adam
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Yeah what is the score with the brass restrictor, does it help bring on boost or stop overboost? I would imagine it helps as the pressure will have to squeeze through the hole.
I've now replaced the MAF, with the stock ECU on it felt better but only 0.5 bar. With the chipped ECU it came with installed it still boosts to 1.0 bar, then backs off right away to 0.7 bar.
After a while it restricts boost to 0.5 bar, feels really flat and retarded, then suddenly it will allow the boost to go back to a bar but still it backs right off to 0.7 bar. When I say it cuts boost it's the same as going into limp home mode but NO engine light. It then comes back. I doubt it's a boost solenoid problem the car is actually restricting it, mayve knock, maybe det who knows but NO engine light and car is defo retarded ignition wise.
I also get this odd noise over 0.5 bar, it still hesitates when you floor it but the noise is so hard to explain, like a grrrrrrrr coming from the engine over 0.5 bar I have no idea what it is, thought MAF but still seems to be there after replacing.
I have coil packs to go on but surely if these were buggered I would get hesitation at any boost? Running out of options really driving me mad. Car is a wagon WRX Import running a TD05, filter and cat back thats it.
Any help appreciated, going to try an ECU reset now as have just put the old one (chipped) back in. It did seem better with a stock ECU in but it only boosts to 0.5 bar and is really slow, maybe the chip is causing a problem but before I got the same noise and problem with both ECU's.
Car also stutters at really low RPM, as you pull off mainly.
T
I've now replaced the MAF, with the stock ECU on it felt better but only 0.5 bar. With the chipped ECU it came with installed it still boosts to 1.0 bar, then backs off right away to 0.7 bar.
After a while it restricts boost to 0.5 bar, feels really flat and retarded, then suddenly it will allow the boost to go back to a bar but still it backs right off to 0.7 bar. When I say it cuts boost it's the same as going into limp home mode but NO engine light. It then comes back. I doubt it's a boost solenoid problem the car is actually restricting it, mayve knock, maybe det who knows but NO engine light and car is defo retarded ignition wise.
I also get this odd noise over 0.5 bar, it still hesitates when you floor it but the noise is so hard to explain, like a grrrrrrrr coming from the engine over 0.5 bar I have no idea what it is, thought MAF but still seems to be there after replacing.
I have coil packs to go on but surely if these were buggered I would get hesitation at any boost? Running out of options really driving me mad. Car is a wagon WRX Import running a TD05, filter and cat back thats it.
Any help appreciated, going to try an ECU reset now as have just put the old one (chipped) back in. It did seem better with a stock ECU in but it only boosts to 0.5 bar and is really slow, maybe the chip is causing a problem but before I got the same noise and problem with both ECU's.
Car also stutters at really low RPM, as you pull off mainly.
T
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#9
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My 95 car didn't have the restictor pill in that pipe,it's purely a vent,it's in one of the other lines from the boost sol. You can just remove it,or connect it back up.Just block the hole on your air box if removing.
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Thanks lads, I conneceted it back up anyway as there was a spare space in the filter.
Does anyone know what stock boost should be on a Wagon WRX 1995, it's running a TD05 but I still wanted to know what stock boost should be as with the stock ECU it only runs 0.5 bar and is slow as hell.
With the chipped ECU it came with it tries to run 1.0 bar but shoot back to 0.7 bar right away. I've reset ECU to see if it makes any difference and will check for the restrictor although initial boost is still 1.0 bar. Sounds horrid though nasty grrr noise from engine over 0.5 bar.
So either have a choice of:
1) Chipped ECU - 1.0 bar which drops to 0.7 bar and makes strange hesitation/stuttering noises, slow
2) Stock ECU - even slower
Woo hoo
T
Does anyone know what stock boost should be on a Wagon WRX 1995, it's running a TD05 but I still wanted to know what stock boost should be as with the stock ECU it only runs 0.5 bar and is slow as hell.
With the chipped ECU it came with it tries to run 1.0 bar but shoot back to 0.7 bar right away. I've reset ECU to see if it makes any difference and will check for the restrictor although initial boost is still 1.0 bar. Sounds horrid though nasty grrr noise from engine over 0.5 bar.
So either have a choice of:
1) Chipped ECU - 1.0 bar which drops to 0.7 bar and makes strange hesitation/stuttering noises, slow
2) Stock ECU - even slower
Woo hoo
T
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strange one with the restrictor pill as my 95 WRX import deffo has it in that pipe.
Anyways i also get a really weard noise fromt he engine bay at about 0.5-7 bar when under load but i just put it down to the filter or something as it doesnt cause any other issues
Anyways i also get a really weard noise fromt he engine bay at about 0.5-7 bar when under load but i just put it down to the filter or something as it doesnt cause any other issues
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Yeah it's really odd, going to book her in with a Subaru chap near me can't get to the bottom of this. Will start a new thread explaining the current problem.
T
T
#13
That pipe was disconnected on mine too. They snap off from the air box resonantor (silensor thingy). It can be left open to atmosphere though with no problems. What letters are written on the stock ecu your are using?
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From Scott T.s website (read bold text)...
Car Hit's Fuel Cut / Too Much Boost
Fuel-Cut is when the Target Boost set in the map is breached by approx 1.5-2psi. As a safety feature this will cause the fuel to be cut until the boost drops below the target limit. Fuel Cut is quite violent and terminology such as 'head hitting winderscreen' and 'peeling face off dashboard' are commonly used when describing it's effect. It is not a subtle misfire by any means.
This can be quite common on some of the Japanese Imports, if cars have had Induction Kits fitted or if the Boost control circuit hoses have been replaced.
Solution : There 'should' be a small brass restrictor in the boost return pipe that helps to control boost and boost spikes. It is quite common for this to get removed (by the Japanese) or accidentally thrown away when hoses are changed or induction kits are fitted.
The boost control solenoid is the Brass cylinder mounted on the drivers side suspension strut. It has 3 hoses and 2 wires attached. The Brass restrictor 'Should' be in the very bottom hose that comes out of the base of the boost control solenoid. The hose bends through 90 degrees and the restrictor is normally just after the bend. This hose then connects to the big black resonator box (maybe not there if an induction kit is fitted). If it is missing, new restrictors can be purchased from Subaru for about £1.00 but anything that you can push into the hose with a small hole drilled through it will do the same job. Adjust size of hole to set the boost, normally around 1.5mm.
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Thats my point i have 3 port solenoid bottom hose is missing so no restrictor, there is no place to attach a hose on resonator either. Car is overboosting since chipping with polar performance chip
Last edited by scoobybrad; 22 September 2008 at 07:11 PM.
#27
dragging this post up from the dead....
my cars having problem where every time i open up the throttle when under load (fine if in neutral) it tries to die, if i leave off again it sorts its self out... just checked and mine is missing this hose with the restrictor in (the bottom one). anyone think thats what my problem is?
ecu is a chipped u8 (with boost raised to 16psi).
my cars having problem where every time i open up the throttle when under load (fine if in neutral) it tries to die, if i leave off again it sorts its self out... just checked and mine is missing this hose with the restrictor in (the bottom one). anyone think thats what my problem is?
ecu is a chipped u8 (with boost raised to 16psi).
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I've just checked mine again, and the restrictor is definitely in the top hose on the boost solenoid, not the bottom.
The bottom is purely a bleed vent from the boost solenoid to the air box resonator, and can be left off.(this is for a 95 car)
It sounds to me like you have an air leak, or possibly a MAF fault.
Have you checked for fault codes?
The bottom is purely a bleed vent from the boost solenoid to the air box resonator, and can be left off.(this is for a 95 car)
It sounds to me like you have an air leak, or possibly a MAF fault.
Have you checked for fault codes?
#30
mines a 93 wrx import. theres deffinately a restrictor in that bottom hose on mine, i've got a spare engine thats the same age, just pinched the hose off it and can see the restrictor in the bend that the above link mentions.
air leak would cause problems when revved while stationary though surely, wheras I've only got problems under load... hence why i think its got something to do with boost.
no fault code unfortunately, as this is on an engine conversion in an old vw beetle, and i havent hooked up a CEL yet.
air leak would cause problems when revved while stationary though surely, wheras I've only got problems under load... hence why i think its got something to do with boost.
no fault code unfortunately, as this is on an engine conversion in an old vw beetle, and i havent hooked up a CEL yet.