JordanTypeR

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if anyone can help me? I have a 98 Type R running approx 320bhp and 300lb torque. Like most people on here I'm looking for more power .

I'm wanting to aim the right side of 400bhp and a good 350lb torque, but what I'm not sure of if it's worth the money?

Can anyone tell me just how much difference I will notice? How fast is 400/350 compared to 320/300 ?

There's got to be plenty of you running 400 horses out there so please help me

scoobyDAZZA

if you use it off the road, ie track/drag then go for it.
if not then why bother ?

mine standard was 215 bhp
first stage went to 260 with decat and remap
2nd stage went to 340 with vf34,injectors,fmic,walboro,K+n and remap tweek

now its running 460+ with 505 lbs/ft torque with (view my scooby) it aint cheap

scares me silly on the road, but i do drive steadily , on my way to track/drag events.

not sure but i think 400/350 would be pushing your internals and transmission

mate of mine has done similar mods to me except he's using a 2 litre and MD321H on his v4 type R , also has PPG box and cosworth internals, running 413/384 , and he's only 0.3 behind me on the 1/4 mile.

JordanTypeR

I've already got all the internals, front mount, FPR, Apexi power FC etc etc, all I'd need I think would be new injectors, turbo and a remap... oh and a new clutch of course .

I'd use it for the odd track day, but it wouldn't be a regular occurance I don't think. It's nice to have the power there when there's something that needs destroying

What's your mates car like then compared to your stage two? Is there a big difference because that's a pretty similar comparison I guess

Northern Nick

iTrader: (1)

I've just moved from 335hp/325lbsft to 423hp/384lbsft and personally, it is worth every penny, every minute it took to do it, every bit of skin I knocked off doing it & every fall out with the wife I had while doing it (and still are), I'm really pleased with the way it goes.

Never done a track day in a car, never had any intension too until now. It does take harnessing on the road, A road blasts become silly speeds in seconds and B roads just become crazy fun/fear, 100% adrenalin drives.

On the other side, the car still drives like an everyday car so you dont need to rev it to make it go.

Me, I'd say yes (I have said yes), whether your going to use it on road or on track but you do need to have a great respect for the car, foot on floor means you've past that point before the brain has recognised it

swifty.....!

iTrader: (4)

northern nick whats your car specs?

JordanTypeR

Sounds pretty awesome mate! What gearbox are you using?

I can't seem to imagine what the powers like. Have you had anything on the road you've had to show who's boss?

Northern Nick

iTrader: (1)

Walbro Fuel Pump
Aeromotive AFPR
Prodrive 3 Port Boost Solenoid
AFP5/6 20G
Automatic Water Spray for
WRC Tech TMIC with Ported Inlets to match
Large Bore APS Y-Pipe
APS Dual Port BOV
AEM CAI
Throttle Body Coolant Delete
Hyperflow Oil Catch Can with PCV Delete
99.9% Oxygen Free Earthing Kit
Kakumei GT Spec Headers Wrapped
Kakumei 3" Turbo Back Exhaust Wrapped Downpipe
NGK PFR7B

Think thats it

I'm running V-Power/10% Meth /0.2%NF in the tank.

All mapped by Andy Forrest, the only man I spend my money on


Its an MY02STi with standard gearbox & clutch, there pretty tough things and the clutch will last if I stop launching the car

Never been in the right place at the right time to play, unless it was a case that they were trying to keep up

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Hi NN !

Mike Wood of Prodrive fame told me that they are good for 400 bhp so long as you don't slip them. But he isn't paying for the new one is he !!

I hope mine gets reasonably close to yours some day soon....

Duncan

lunar tick

iTrader: (2)

My spec is very simliar to Northern Nick's and making very similar power. 420bhp/360lb-ft is very nice indeed in a Newage, though you need to have your wits about you when you mash your right foot to the floor on anything other than a long and empty stretch of road. However, it's great fun and around town, it's a pussycat to drive.

The same power in a Classic would be even more ballistic - and maybe too much of a handful? But then it's surprising how quickly you get used to power

burns

iTrader: (1)

my car is a v5 type r limited with 427bhp and 462 lb/ft of torque.
It still amazes me just how rapid my car is, even though it's been at this power now for 12 months.
To me it's perfect,hugely powerful but with the manners of the standard car to drive. I still get 20 mpg as well ,if you have got the cash spare go for it.

Ian

iTrader: (10)

i would like to be close to hat one day, but not sure how much abuse/power my standard sti version 6 gear box will take

andy97

iTrader: (1)

I will be jumping from 380 to mid 400s soon. I know 380 in a classic was ballistic, so I can only imagine whats to come

edit my 20G is up forsale

loony toon

iTrader: (4)

Make sure your handling and braking are up to the job before spending money on power upgrades !!!!!

A very good friend used to run ring around big power cars on tracketc with only 340 bhp/330 ftlb torg because his braking and suspension mods worked better !!!!!!

Advice i would follow everytime and have proved both on track and on the road is that handling and braking mods come first !!!

Them add the big power !!!!!!!!!!



all the best

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

Lots !!

You must be pretty close to the 400 now if not over it.

The step over 400 is an expensive one as it is where the component life is at the limit in most cases. If you must chase 420 or 450 you might as well go for 500 or 550 - there isnt a huge amount of cost difference.

Personally 350 is enough for the road, but you can never have enough on track

Ian

iTrader: (10)

am at about 360 at the mo duncan, map tweek is later this month
am driving easy at the mo as fitted the gt-spec the other day, have lost some of the burble though

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

You may have lost burble, but wait til you get some boost through those tubes... it is like an angel doing a solo just for you on the harp. Pure Bliss

swifty.....!

iTrader: (4)

northern nick

thats very simular to my spec i'm running 392bhp and 356lb/ft but not running meth was thinking of doing 10% meth next. did you have the car mapped before with out meth if so what where figures then?
also are you still on the standard injectors?

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

You would need to change the injectors - std ones wont cope at that level with the extra fueling to make up for the fuel.

swifty.....!

iTrader: (4)

dynamix off subject but what are the EXE-TC Coilovers like been thinking of upgrading to the fast road ones in the future but are they worth the money and are they ok for everyday use or they too harsh?

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

They contain witchcraft.

They seem softer when driving around normally but seem to magically stiffen up when you need them to be. Very good damping is the key whilst allowing the wheels/tyres to grip.

I consider them as perfection for everyday driving and they get even better when on track

swifty.....!

iTrader: (4)

think i'l have to invest in some of these soon. where did you get yours from only seen them on rcm site so far and thanks for the info

Northern Nick

iTrader: (1)

No never ran that spec without meth/nf, so dont really know what it would have done but it has been said that 10%meth/0.2%NF adds about 30hp on that spec.

I however am still running standard STi injectors with a Aeromotive AFPR to get the required flow through them. I was quite amazed at that but AndyF seems to work magic on the whole set-up. People say its not possible to get 400+hp on a 20G never mind with standard injectors also.

Northern Nick

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for that mate but I still think a day on the 1/4mile strip will kill it

swifty.....!

iTrader: (4)

its only AndyF who i let map my car i've not asked him yet about meth but think i might have to now

ex-webby

If they are perfect for road use, they will need some mega adjustment (spring ratings, rebound/compression) to get the best on track though, regardless of who makes the strut. Get your spanners out for TA.

F1 CJE UK

iTrader: (8)

Note to self stop reading these types of threads it only gives you ideas and that’s a very bad thing on you wallet……

Interesting read guys

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

Proper suspension doesnt Shaun - they work with softer springs - just good damping. Solid isnt the best way, unless you fit cheap suspension in which case it is the only way