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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 02:38 PM
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Question Cam and crank sensors

In the future, I wish to perform oil and filter changes myself on my 1993 WRX 4-door... Can anyone tell/show me where to locate the cam and crank sensors and how to disconnect them on this model, etc...
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 03:47 PM
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the crank sensor is more or less in the middle of the engine below the alternator just aboe where the plastic cam covers are. The cam sensor I think is on the top left hand side of the cam cover so that will be the right hand side if you look at it from the front of the car.
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 07:18 PM
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From: 10.68 QT mile in 2007 2.33 Type R ** Current 2002 Spec C 2.33 Track prepped.
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You need to disconect only the cam sensor, front right side of motor by oil filler cap.
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by *Un-ink*
You need to disconect only the cam sensor, front right side of motor by oil filler cap.
Thanks people.

So *Un-ink*, just to be certain, if I disconnect ONLY the cam sensor, I definetely WON'T cause the plugs to spark when priming the oil pump after an oil change, yes?
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 12:25 PM
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yep plugs wont spark without sensor connected
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 01:14 PM
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Am I barking up the right tree?...



...If so, to disconnect them, do you simply unscrew those hexagonal-headed nuts?
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 08:12 PM
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They are the right sensors, but undoing the nuts will actually loosen/remove the sensors themselves. They should have an electrical plug that can be prised off.
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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Disconect Just the cam sensor you will be fine.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by silent running
They are the right sensors, but undoing the nuts will actually loosen/remove the sensors themselves. They should have an electrical plug that can be prised off.
Is it easy to prise off? Presumably you use a thin flat-bladed screwdriver to get between the rubber boot and the metal flange, yes?

Please describe the removal procedure/technique, etc...

Thanks, John.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 07:57 PM
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With the nuts undone both sensors just pull out of the block (sensors are a round metal cyclinder with plastic electrical connector on top) leaving a round hole in the block into which they slot back easily. On the electrical connector there is a slot - ease a flat head screwdriver in there gently and pull sensor away from cable - easy.

The cam and crank sensors are a doddle to disconnect

Changed my crank sensor recently when it failed - five minute job if you have a suitable size spanner which can get to nut behind alternator.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 11:34 PM
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Yours are the early sensors, you need to chase the wires back and disconnect from there. I have read before that the crank sensor is the one that is used whilst cranking, and the cam when the engine has fired

Hence it won't start of the crank sensor is faulty.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 11:58 PM
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does anyone know how to teach my subaru to run on 95 octane i ave heard from a few people you can,i dont know..
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Old Sep 5, 2007 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 500
Yours are the early sensors, you need to chase the wires back and disconnect from there
So, for my model's particular sensors, do I have to disconnect from where the wires go back to a wiring loom somehere? Is there, therefore, a simple-to-unplug multiplug at the wiring loom's end then? (I apologise for all these questions, but what started out as what I thought would be a relatively simple thing, has turned out to be a slight headache...)

John
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Old Sep 5, 2007 | 07:46 PM
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It's a multiplug, all you need to do is follow the wires back and you will see where they connect

Have a look and you will see what I mean.

Adam
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 500
It's a multiplug, all you need to do is follow the wires back and you will see where they connect

Have a look and you will see what I mean.

Adam
Hi 500.

I traced it back and it appears to be a grey multiplug that sits directly underneath the short I.C.-to-plenum chamber hose. Is this correct?

Thing is, it looks a pig to try to prise the male and female connectors apart - would I need to temporarily remove the hose to do so? Or can it be done with the hose in situ? If so, what's the technique?
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