Ported and wrapped headers
#3
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Headers is another word for your exhaust manifold.
From the factory they are cast iron and they dont match up very well with the outlet ports from the engine. The results in the gas flow being resticted due to turbulance.
Porting is when you cut away the metal from the exhaust manifold to match up better with the outlet ports from the engine. The smoother the tranisiton between engine and headers means a faster flow and this inturn can increase power (faster spool of turbo and less restriction at high flows). The porting can also be done from the headers to the up-pipe which is the pipe that goes between the headers and the bottom of the turbo.
Take a look at this for pictures..... P+P Exhaust Manifold
Wrapping the headers and up-pipe in insulating material helps hold in the heat which stops it getting into you engine bay and sucked into your air inlet. Hot air holds has less oxygen (less dense) than cold air, and the more oxygen you can get into the engine per piston stroke the bigger the bang = more power!
From the factory they are cast iron and they dont match up very well with the outlet ports from the engine. The results in the gas flow being resticted due to turbulance.
Porting is when you cut away the metal from the exhaust manifold to match up better with the outlet ports from the engine. The smoother the tranisiton between engine and headers means a faster flow and this inturn can increase power (faster spool of turbo and less restriction at high flows). The porting can also be done from the headers to the up-pipe which is the pipe that goes between the headers and the bottom of the turbo.
Take a look at this for pictures..... P+P Exhaust Manifold
Wrapping the headers and up-pipe in insulating material helps hold in the heat which stops it getting into you engine bay and sucked into your air inlet. Hot air holds has less oxygen (less dense) than cold air, and the more oxygen you can get into the engine per piston stroke the bigger the bang = more power!
Last edited by The Hoff; 15 June 2007 at 09:32 AM.
#6
The Hoff's spot on, but added to his comments, wrapping not only helps keep under bonnet temps down, but also keeps exhaust hotter and hot gas flows quicker too as the pressure is higher, an added benefit for flow.
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#8
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You need to take the headers off and cut off the lugs for heat shield, I used a grinder with a cutting disc. You then need to wrap them like you would a set of push bike racing handle bars. Soak the heat wrap first but don't make it soggy just damp.
#9
No. Every thing has to come off. The old tin heatsheild may require grinding off but nuts and bolts should come out with a bit of effort.
I actually ground off the mounting points for the original heatsheild at they make wrapping a pain.
more photos....
I actually ground off the mounting points for the original heatsheild at they make wrapping a pain.
more photos....
#13
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By saying factory fit ones you mean the ones currently on the car ? If so yes I was thinking about doing these but dont know if ive got the energy to take the ca apart at the mo !!!
#14
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They're actually really easy to remove as long as nothing's seized. Jack front of car, unbolt headers from up-pipe first (two bolts), then three bolts on each side of the headers and that's it, seriously there's nothing else to it. Probably the easiest exhaust manifold in the world to remove! A 1 spanner in the Haynes.
#16
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Porting on the headers can be a bit of a chore. TBH you'd be better to send them off to Harvey Smith for porting. The headers are cast iron and you're more likely to blunt all your cutting tools than achieve anything unless you've got an air powered die grinder. It's not like porting aluminium which is fairly straightforward and can be done with a drill and rotary burrs, or even a flapwheel.
The heat wrapping is much more suitable for the amateur. I have always used DEI or Thermotec wrap; a 1" wide x 50' long roll was just enough for my headers with a little left over. You can get much cheaper wrap than that: some say it's OK, others say it disintegrates after a while. You'll also need some lockwire or stainless steel ties to hold the wrap in place. You can basically get everything you need off ebay.
The heat wrapping is much more suitable for the amateur. I have always used DEI or Thermotec wrap; a 1" wide x 50' long roll was just enough for my headers with a little left over. You can get much cheaper wrap than that: some say it's OK, others say it disintegrates after a while. You'll also need some lockwire or stainless steel ties to hold the wrap in place. You can basically get everything you need off ebay.
#18
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No problem. You may find it better value for money in terms of cost and time if you just get someone like Harvey to do the whole job. Wrapping a set of stadard headers also involves grinding off the heatshields and the lugs. TBH it's a complete pain in the **** if you don't already have all the equipment. In fact you could get the whole set of his ported headers and special up-pipe to suit, wrapped and ready to bolt on, all on exchange for your own standard headers.
#19
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Thanks again but the only problem with doing it that way would be being without a car for ? as long as the snail mail takes to deliver mine to hime and then his to mine ?
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We have OE Subaru manifolds ported and wrapped on the shelf ready to go, £160 including next day delivery and VAT on an exchange basis.
Should you need them as a matter of urgency we would initially charge £250 for our ported manifold and refund you £90.00 on receipt of your originals.
Should you need them as a matter of urgency we would initially charge £250 for our ported manifold and refund you £90.00 on receipt of your originals.
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