Should a boost solenoid have normally-closed contacts? I.e when it's not in use the + and - are contacted?

I wouldn't of thought so, as there's 13.8V going to it when the engines running.... and having that essentially shorted will surely blow a fuse...

Mine hasn't been working so I took it out and it's displaying this NC style which I thought was strange...

 

It always has +12v connected to it. The ECU triggers it by decking the other connection to a ground, otherwise it just floats up to the same voltage.

Paul

 

Thanks Paul. Today I took the boost solenoid out completely, and applied 12v to it via a variable power supply. It clicked open... but I'm pretty sure it wasn't doing this in the car, as I could neither hear it nor "feel it" clicking...

I think it's a 2 port? (There are 3 ports but 2 main ones?) There is one 'port' connection at the top, opposite to where the red and black power connections enter, the pipe connected to this was going to the right hand side of the turbo?

There are 2 further ports on the bottom, at right angles to each other, one was connected to the turbo's actuator and the other was going into the air feed. Which one should be connected to the actuator? The one on the bottom pointing straight down from the solenoid as it sits in the car, or the one coming out at a right angle towards the engine?

To describe my boost symptoms, if you floor it in 1st/2nd, there will be a small (about 1 second) kind of 'delay' and then a huge burst of boost which kicks you into the seat (1.3 BAR). Then the boost stabilizes to 0.9 BAR... I tried cleaning the boost solenoid with carb cleaner to no avail. Then what I thought was the boost solenoid completely failing symptoms developed, no clicking etc from the solenoid, and when you floored it it would peak at 2.0 BAR and activate fuel cut


So if my boost solenoid is working, would it be the pipe work that is causing the ECU to not trigger the boost solenoids actuation, hence I'm not hearing any clicking etc?

 

BTTT

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