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clutch fitting problems, any help from DIY ers?

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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 11:48 AM
  #1  
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motoxxxr
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From: burton on trent, staffs
Default clutch fitting problems, any help from DIY ers?

hi,

i attempted to fit my clutch on my 98 classic wrx yesturday. i brought a 230mm exedy clutch kit.

after getting the gearbox of i finally got to fit the clutch. i lined the friction plate and got it in perfect alignment. i put the release bearing on to the fork.

i then got the gearbox back on the engine and it went in straight away. i bolted it up

now the problem, i cannot get the clutch to work, the clutch slave cylinder is on the p!ss and wont bolt down on the gearbox i can can only get the bolt in closest to the bulkhead there is no play in the fork. is this normal. ive got a spanner on and and tried moving it to see how it would work.

i just started to engine afterwards it seemed a bit sluggish to start but when it started there is a very loud noise coming from the clutch so i switched it of instantly.

now am abit worried that i cant take it to a garage as they get funny about finishing other people work

any help and past expericences would be appriated

thanks for your time

chris
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 12:02 PM
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ticky
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You need to undo the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder & open the cap on the clutch reservoir tank. Then retry fitting onto the the gearbox ( bolts).

Did you pull the fork arm back so the release bearing clicks back into the clutch?

Then bleed the system.

Just a few quick points as I am off out.

Ticky
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 12:17 PM
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motoxxxr
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From: burton on trent, staffs
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do you pushe the fork to towards the bulkhead or the engine? can you do this by hand or by spanner? and there is aboour 10mm movement either way

thanks
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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911
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You put the thrust bearing on the fork slide it all over the gearbox input sleeve that is over the input shaft and inset the large pivot shaft, all smearedwith coppa-slip.
Slide the box back on (as if it is that easy, but my last box change it was!) and bolt it up. You then push the exposes clutch arm/fork hard towards the bulkhead and note the click as the bearing snaps into the cage on the clutch spring assembly on the cover plate.
The process has worked if you can move the fork about 10mm 'play' but no more.

Re-connect the clutch slave to the box and pump the pedal to get the slave shaft located into the fork (a dab of gears there too.)
Get in the car and try the clutch action. Should all feel normal and be ok.

Hope this helps.
Graham
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 05:32 PM
  #5  
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ticky
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The common method used with new clutch kit.
Align the clutch & pressure plate to flywheel (no bearing attached) torque up bolts.
Then assemble the release fork , pivot bush & hex nut.
Place the new bearing onto the release fork & pull the fork forward so the bearing is sitting back on the bellhousing (input shaft, with splines)
You can them tie up the top of the fork to the bracket on the top of the gearbox housing so the fork & bearing stay in place.

Then assemble engine to gearbox or the other way round.
Once you have done this, undo the tie that you used to hold the fork in place & push the fork back towards the bulkhead. This should then click to confirm the release bearing has clipped into the clutch etc.

Refit you slave cylinder & bleed the system. If the rod in the slave cylinder is not moving you need to undo the bleed nipple & then push the small rod back.

Out of curiosity did you not push the bearing into the clutch, once you managed to get the engine & box together? Then did you start your engine. hence why it made the noises. If you did then remove the gearbox & check if you have not damaged the bearing.

Ticky
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