STi Version 5 and Version 9 crank
11 February 2007, 03:45 PM
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STi Version 5 and Version 9 crank
Hi , my engine expired recently (knocking) and i've just had a chance to open her up to check the damage
Well the crank and 1 conrod has been badly scored and also a bearing had spun on that same rod
So it looks like it just needs a new crankshaft, 1x conrod + bearing set. The heads are untouched.
the block bores are fine and everything else looks spot on.
I noticed the thurst bearing is not in the middle but on the far corner closest to the flywheel side.. does this mean I can drop in the better STi V9 crank with no mods?
If i can wheres cheapest place I cab get hold of one? I assume I can use the standard Sti V5 bearings with this
Thanks in advance
Well the crank and 1 conrod has been badly scored and also a bearing had spun on that same rod
So it looks like it just needs a new crankshaft, 1x conrod + bearing set. The heads are untouched.
the block bores are fine and everything else looks spot on.
I noticed the thurst bearing is not in the middle but on the far corner closest to the flywheel side.. does this mean I can drop in the better STi V9 crank with no mods?
If i can wheres cheapest place I cab get hold of one? I assume I can use the standard Sti V5 bearings with this
Thanks in advance
Last edited by Monkian; 11 February 2007 at 03:52 PM. Reason: spelling
11 February 2007, 03:50 PM
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You can drop an STi 9 crank straight in as the thrust bearing is on no 5 main as your version 5.
Whilst the engines in bits it might be worth going for some aftermarket uprated bearings like ACL.
I would suggest speaking to Mark at "Lateral Performance" for parts.
Can i also suggest you change the oil-water cooler, this is a must!
You may also want to get an uprated oil pump from the likes of Roger Clark.
Whilst the engines in bits it might be worth going for some aftermarket uprated bearings like ACL.
I would suggest speaking to Mark at "Lateral Performance" for parts.
Can i also suggest you change the oil-water cooler, this is a must!
You may also want to get an uprated oil pump from the likes of Roger Clark.
Last edited by Triple X; 11 February 2007 at 03:53 PM. Reason: Adding other parts you may want
11 February 2007, 07:25 PM
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You will also need to replace the OE oil cooler. Head gaskets will be required, you can strip and check the oil pump, it's usually not necessary to replace it, although many opt to upgrade to a modified pump. You will need the 4 black orings (3 in block, one on oil pump) and the orange o-ring in the block waterway. If you're not boring and honing, then you can go straight in with decent oil rather than running-in oil, so budget for that, the coolant, filter, sump washer etc.
The sti9 cross drilled crank is ideal and should fit straight in. We always use ACL heavy duty or Race series bearings on rebuilds and stock them at competitive prices.
If you are rebuilding I would strongly recommend you take the opportunity to uprate the rods, with the very least to Sti 9 spec, which are less than £200+vat for a set of 4. They are a superior rod and cheap insurance, as the standard rods are definitely the week point of the classic STI engines.
Crank seals are usually okay, but not expensive if you want to replace, probably best to get water pump gaskets, water cross pipe o-rings, inlet manifold gaskets. Buying individual gaskets is much cheaper than getting the whole gasket set which is great but includes a lot of gaskets and washers you don't really need to disturb let alone replace.
Add some assembly lube (graphogen or engine assemble lube), silicone sealer (3-bond or loctite Blacktite is best) and you should have everything you need.
Paul
The sti9 cross drilled crank is ideal and should fit straight in. We always use ACL heavy duty or Race series bearings on rebuilds and stock them at competitive prices.
If you are rebuilding I would strongly recommend you take the opportunity to uprate the rods, with the very least to Sti 9 spec, which are less than £200+vat for a set of 4. They are a superior rod and cheap insurance, as the standard rods are definitely the week point of the classic STI engines.
Crank seals are usually okay, but not expensive if you want to replace, probably best to get water pump gaskets, water cross pipe o-rings, inlet manifold gaskets. Buying individual gaskets is much cheaper than getting the whole gasket set which is great but includes a lot of gaskets and washers you don't really need to disturb let alone replace.
Add some assembly lube (graphogen or engine assemble lube), silicone sealer (3-bond or loctite Blacktite is best) and you should have everything you need.
Paul
12 February 2007, 09:03 AM
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You will also need to replace the OE oil cooler. Head gaskets will be required, you can strip and check the oil pump, it's usually not necessary to replace it, although many opt to upgrade to a modified pump. You will need the 4 black orings (3 in block, one on oil pump) and the orange o-ring in the block waterway. If you're not boring and honing, then you can go straight in with decent oil rather than running-in oil, so budget for that, the coolant, filter, sump washer etc.
The sti9 cross drilled crank is ideal and should fit straight in. We always use ACL heavy duty or Race series bearings on rebuilds and stock them at competitive prices.
If you are rebuilding I would strongly recommend you take the opportunity to uprate the rods, with the very least to Sti 9 spec, which are less than £200+vat for a set of 4. They are a superior rod and cheap insurance, as the standard rods are definitely the week point of the classic STI engines.
Crank seals are usually okay, but not expensive if you want to replace, probably best to get water pump gaskets, water cross pipe o-rings, inlet manifold gaskets. Buying individual gaskets is much cheaper than getting the whole gasket set which is great but includes a lot of gaskets and washers you don't really need to disturb let alone replace.
Add some assembly lube (graphogen or engine assemble lube), silicone sealer (3-bond or loctite Blacktite is best) and you should have everything you need.
Paul
The sti9 cross drilled crank is ideal and should fit straight in. We always use ACL heavy duty or Race series bearings on rebuilds and stock them at competitive prices.
If you are rebuilding I would strongly recommend you take the opportunity to uprate the rods, with the very least to Sti 9 spec, which are less than £200+vat for a set of 4. They are a superior rod and cheap insurance, as the standard rods are definitely the week point of the classic STI engines.
Crank seals are usually okay, but not expensive if you want to replace, probably best to get water pump gaskets, water cross pipe o-rings, inlet manifold gaskets. Buying individual gaskets is much cheaper than getting the whole gasket set which is great but includes a lot of gaskets and washers you don't really need to disturb let alone replace.
Add some assembly lube (graphogen or engine assemble lube), silicone sealer (3-bond or loctite Blacktite is best) and you should have everything you need.
Paul
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