coil packs
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coil packs
right, i now a bit about these cars. but theres one thing I'm not to sure about, these coil packs
how do i check if there OK, or if any which one is iffy.
th reason i ask, my cars pick up is a little slow. been in touch with a couple of tuners, and they say check the plugs. well there no on the other week. so they said check the coils, how?
if anyone has any info on these things,
share the wealth
how do i check if there OK, or if any which one is iffy.
th reason i ask, my cars pick up is a little slow. been in touch with a couple of tuners, and they say check the plugs. well there no on the other week. so they said check the coils, how?
if anyone has any info on these things,
share the wealth
#4
I could be wrong but I believe a general multimeter can be used to check the resistance and your eyes to check for cracks etc.... cant help with values to check for on the meter but I'm sure it will be in one of the many threads on coil packs somewhere.
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Originally Posted by Yamarashi
I could be wrong but I believe a general multimeter can be used to check the resistance and your eyes to check for cracks etc.... cant help with values to check for on the meter but I'm sure it will be in one of the many threads on coil packs somewhere.
just need to find out how to check if there naff
#6
You'll need to check and compare the resistance of each coil pack with an ohm meter .... You could also try decreasing the plug gap and see if it runs any better ... as a smaller plug gap helps a failing coil pack work better.
Although saying all that the Coil packs usually give a noticeable missfire type symptom rather than slow pickup ... have you cleaned the boost solenoid and its relative pipework.
Although saying all that the Coil packs usually give a noticeable missfire type symptom rather than slow pickup ... have you cleaned the boost solenoid and its relative pipework.
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Originally Posted by Yamarashi
You'll need to check and compare the resistance of each coil pack with an ohm meter .... You could also try decreasing the plug gap and see if it runs any better ... as a smaller plug gap helps a failing coil pack work better.
Although saying all that the Coil packs usually give a noticeable missfire type symptom rather than slow pickup ... have you cleaned the boost solenoid and its relative pipework.
Although saying all that the Coil packs usually give a noticeable missfire type symptom rather than slow pickup ... have you cleaned the boost solenoid and its relative pipework.
do you know the resistance for these things at all.
i don't get any cel light on at all. + my boost is a lot lower. every thing in/on the car works fine.
it started last week, i was booting (like you do) and all of a suden. it was like a fuel/boost cut.
but i've been told to check the plugs + coils.
thanks for that info anyway mate
Last edited by dabow; 03 January 2007 at 12:03 AM.
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#8
You dont tend to get cel lights on with coil pack issues and be aware that you can still have a faulty plug even if they are new as then can get damaged when being fitted etc or they may be incorrectly gapped. Its still worth taking them out and checking / reducing the gap to the size as recommended by many on this site.
Sorry cant help with the resistance values but if you can pull the coil packs off one at a time while the engine idles you should be able to isolate the one causing the missfire. (not sure how easy or practical this is on the multiple coilpack setup as I have the single coilpack and HTleads) but watch out for getting a jolt if you do try it ... rubber gloves anyone
Sorry cant help with the resistance values but if you can pull the coil packs off one at a time while the engine idles you should be able to isolate the one causing the missfire. (not sure how easy or practical this is on the multiple coilpack setup as I have the single coilpack and HTleads) but watch out for getting a jolt if you do try it ... rubber gloves anyone
#9
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rubber gloves hay.
i know its some thing to do with eather the coils/plugs, just as you say. the cel lights not on
im getting another set of plugs, i would never disconect one at a time with these multi coils system. the engine could det.
i may get lucky with just testing each coil.
if no joy. i'll be back
i know its some thing to do with eather the coils/plugs, just as you say. the cel lights not on
im getting another set of plugs, i would never disconect one at a time with these multi coils system. the engine could det.
i may get lucky with just testing each coil.
if no joy. i'll be back
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the coils tend to fail due to the heat cycle the go through with engine warming and cooling etc.. if one is failing then they are all close.. they tend to last around 4~5years and 80~100k miles from experiance.
They should be replaced as a set.
Simon
They should be replaced as a set.
Simon
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Around 250 a set.. there have been copies mentioned on here but not tried them.. I have converted my own car to run a 98 coil pack and leads but I don;t have a standard ecu or ignition so cannot confirm it would be fine to do that on the standard car.
Simon
Simon
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thanks for that mate, i've also been looking at these other type ones. they look & do the same.
they want £200 for the full set. the Jolly Green Monster was on about them,
im going to look into them first.
they want £200 for the full set. the Jolly Green Monster was on about them,
im going to look into them first.
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Coil packs - Hmmmm,
If one is on the way out then the other three will not be far behind. We had a guy buy 4; one at a time back in the spring and would not be advised that they were all on the way out. Even as he ordered the third one he still insisted that he didn't need all four. Oh well, some you can help - some go they own way.
New genuine coil packs are £48 each here plus carriage of 8 quid plus VAT total £235.00 to your door.
JGM is correct, it is the heat range that does for them and testing the resistance cold is not going to give you the value for when you get them up to engine operating temperature. Cracks in the plastic around the firing electrode is the obvious spot for a failed one and I an extremely dubious about taping them back to fix the problem.
They are such a bugger to change that why go to all the trouble of taking it out and taping it re-fitting it and then doing it all again when it proves fruitless ?
We certainly couldn't charge a customer twice for trying to save him money by doing a tape job and then doing it again because it didn't work.
Worth a try I suppose, if you are doing it at home, but in a chargeable situation not really feasible.
David APi
If one is on the way out then the other three will not be far behind. We had a guy buy 4; one at a time back in the spring and would not be advised that they were all on the way out. Even as he ordered the third one he still insisted that he didn't need all four. Oh well, some you can help - some go they own way.
New genuine coil packs are £48 each here plus carriage of 8 quid plus VAT total £235.00 to your door.
JGM is correct, it is the heat range that does for them and testing the resistance cold is not going to give you the value for when you get them up to engine operating temperature. Cracks in the plastic around the firing electrode is the obvious spot for a failed one and I an extremely dubious about taping them back to fix the problem.
They are such a bugger to change that why go to all the trouble of taking it out and taping it re-fitting it and then doing it all again when it proves fruitless ?
We certainly couldn't charge a customer twice for trying to save him money by doing a tape job and then doing it again because it didn't work.
Worth a try I suppose, if you are doing it at home, but in a chargeable situation not really feasible.
David APi
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sorry to hijack your thread "dabow" but does anyone (APIDAVE) recommend and suplply an alternative to the std import coil packs i have seen the gtrr33 boys using splitfire versions but are these available for ej20?
the problem is i am encountering problems with my car on acceleration at around 5000 rpm in higher gears i get what feels like a ignition cut/fuel cut out which hits then when you back off and boost again it sometimes clears through it for a short while i have tried closing the gaps and it still happens i am running an 95 wrx import with an esl chip kit which has been mapped by Andy to run 440cc yellow injectors and warlboro fuel pump with unequal tubular manifold and full 3" hks decat sytem, hks induction kit and fmic boost is controlled bt apexi avcr and map allow boost to run upto 1.4bar i am currently running 1.3 bar at 65% duty but this cut is just bloody Annoying especially when overtaking can be a reet pain i have been advised if its not the coil packs then it could be the ignition amplifier is this correct or could it be something else i am missing?
the problem is i am encountering problems with my car on acceleration at around 5000 rpm in higher gears i get what feels like a ignition cut/fuel cut out which hits then when you back off and boost again it sometimes clears through it for a short while i have tried closing the gaps and it still happens i am running an 95 wrx import with an esl chip kit which has been mapped by Andy to run 440cc yellow injectors and warlboro fuel pump with unequal tubular manifold and full 3" hks decat sytem, hks induction kit and fmic boost is controlled bt apexi avcr and map allow boost to run upto 1.4bar i am currently running 1.3 bar at 65% duty but this cut is just bloody Annoying especially when overtaking can be a reet pain i have been advised if its not the coil packs then it could be the ignition amplifier is this correct or could it be something else i am missing?
#22
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Originally Posted by fwdnutz
sorry to hijack your thread "dabow" but does anyone (APIDAVE) recommend and suplply an alternative to the std import coil packs i have seen the gtrr33 boys using splitfire versions but are these available for ej20?
the problem is i am encountering problems with my car on acceleration at around 5000 rpm in higher gears i get what feels like a ignition cut/fuel cut out which hits then when you back off and boost again it sometimes clears through it for a short while i have tried closing the gaps and it still happens i am running an 95 wrx import with an esl chip kit which has been mapped by Andy to run 440cc yellow injectors and warlboro fuel pump with unequal tubular manifold and full 3" hks decat sytem, hks induction kit and fmic boost is controlled bt apexi avcr and map allow boost to run upto 1.4bar i am currently running 1.3 bar at 65% duty but this cut is just bloody Annoying especially when overtaking can be a reet pain i have been advised if its not the coil packs then it could be the ignition amplifier is this correct or could it be something else i am missing?
the problem is i am encountering problems with my car on acceleration at around 5000 rpm in higher gears i get what feels like a ignition cut/fuel cut out which hits then when you back off and boost again it sometimes clears through it for a short while i have tried closing the gaps and it still happens i am running an 95 wrx import with an esl chip kit which has been mapped by Andy to run 440cc yellow injectors and warlboro fuel pump with unequal tubular manifold and full 3" hks decat sytem, hks induction kit and fmic boost is controlled bt apexi avcr and map allow boost to run upto 1.4bar i am currently running 1.3 bar at 65% duty but this cut is just bloody Annoying especially when overtaking can be a reet pain i have been advised if its not the coil packs then it could be the ignition amplifier is this correct or could it be something else i am missing?
#23
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The Bosch ones are good but aren't a great dealer cheaper and make the engine bay look all messy as they don't fit in place of the originals.
As for fwdnutz ' hijack ' above: that sounds like a fuel cut rather than a misfire. Could be caused by a boost spike or any number of other related problems of a similar vein.
Coil packs and plugs tend to misfire as you load the plug, rather than whilst it is loaded. I.E. as you floor it, instead of during the flooring.
Can you still do an ECU check using the diagnostic wires under the dash using that chip? That'd be the easiest way to tell whats goiung on rather than changing parts because you thought it was that. If you can get the ECU to tell you what it doesn't like, that'll be the way to go in my opinion.
David APi
As for fwdnutz ' hijack ' above: that sounds like a fuel cut rather than a misfire. Could be caused by a boost spike or any number of other related problems of a similar vein.
Coil packs and plugs tend to misfire as you load the plug, rather than whilst it is loaded. I.E. as you floor it, instead of during the flooring.
Can you still do an ECU check using the diagnostic wires under the dash using that chip? That'd be the easiest way to tell whats goiung on rather than changing parts because you thought it was that. If you can get the ECU to tell you what it doesn't like, that'll be the way to go in my opinion.
David APi
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i need to sort something out, i changed the turbo + the standard cat to a sports 100 cell type. the seemed a little quicker. but still dont seem to have the get up & go anymore. + when in higher revs, seems to kind of cut out. the cels not on, i've changed the plugs. the only thing is the coils really. as api guy says, recommend to change all four.
but what would be best, standard ones or the slightly less cheaper ones. there's really only £35 difference. but if i do change all the coils + plugs again, what next.
but what would be best, standard ones or the slightly less cheaper ones. there's really only £35 difference. but if i do change all the coils + plugs again, what next.
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ok thanks for the reply guys! i thought it may be something to do with the boost controller so will look in this area, as for apidavid no i am not getting any errors from cel but will try a reset in morning according to Andy at esl the chip still retains the ecu checklight codes as std, possibly it is overboosting/spiking will experiment later!
as for dabow i would check all your connections m8 and check that all your crank sensors/cam sensors are working fine as my m8 has recently had similar misfire prob at tickover and it turned out to be a faulty cam sensor! which did`nt show itself on the check light
as for dabow i would check all your connections m8 and check that all your crank sensors/cam sensors are working fine as my m8 has recently had similar misfire prob at tickover and it turned out to be a faulty cam sensor! which did`nt show itself on the check light
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Originally Posted by fwdnutz
ok thanks for the reply guys! i thought it may be something to do with the boost controller so will look in this area, as for apidavid no i am not getting any errors from cel but will try a reset in morning according to Andy at esl the chip still retains the ecu checklight codes as std, possibly it is overboosting/spiking will experiment later!
as for dabow i would check all your connections m8 and check that all your crank sensors/cam sensors are working fine as my m8 has recently had similar misfire prob at tickover and it turned out to be a faulty cam sensor! which did`nt show itself on the check light
as for dabow i would check all your connections m8 and check that all your crank sensors/cam sensors are working fine as my m8 has recently had similar misfire prob at tickover and it turned out to be a faulty cam sensor! which did`nt show itself on the check light
1) there was the wrong plugs - had to change them to ngk platinum.
2) one of the coils was on its way out.
i've asked esl as my chipping unit was from them, he says check the plugs/coils too.
#27
Why not fit the single coil and HT leads ... should work out a lot cheaper with a second hand coil and some new HT leads. It looks like Jolly Green Monster has done exactly that so should be able to point out the best way to wire it up!.... then no more messing with these expensive and potentially frail multiple coil packs.... its what I would do if i didn't already have the single coil setup!
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Originally Posted by Yamarashi
Why not fit the single coil and HT leads ... should work out a lot cheaper with a second hand coil and some new HT leads. It looks like Jolly Green Monster has done exactly that so should be able to point out the best way to wire it up!.... then no more messing with these expensive and potentially frail multiple coil packs.... its what I would do if i didn't already have the single coil setup!
+ the single coils are quicker than the ht leads. this is also why they have gone back to them.
as most will say, when these coils are new, they are good for upto 80k. thats about the same as the single coils.
i dont knowwhen they were changed. i've only had the car for a year & a half. the other thing ive never liked with ht leads, is the heads coming off them.
went out tonite for a raz in the car, & it never played up. so im know very sure that one or more are on there way out.
most of these posts are very imformative. so thanks guys.
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